How hard is it to maintane an RX7?
07-15-04, 11:13 AM
#28
As has been previously said, you can do the work on a RX-7. Nothing's really buried that badly.
Most parts stores I've been to carry the plugs for the RX-7s. Getting the plug wires is the pain, because "standard 4 cylinder" sets fit, but you end up with an insanely long wire or two curling around the engine bay.
-=Russ=-
Most parts stores I've been to carry the plugs for the RX-7s. Getting the plug wires is the pain, because "standard 4 cylinder" sets fit, but you end up with an insanely long wire or two curling around the engine bay.
-=Russ=-
07-15-04, 01:20 PM
#30
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So people are telling me "DONT FOOL WITH THE MOTOR" . does this mean i cant upgrade the parts and get aftermarket parts without having alot of problems? I want a car I can upgrade to make faster. But how fast is the RX7 stock? 1/4 mile? 0-60? torque? top speed? ect...
07-15-04, 01:22 PM
#31
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well its the same as any engine, it needs to be cared for, but one thing that is stressed is buying a new Pulsation Dampener.....every 100,000 miles or so, and my guess is that almost all rx-7's with the original pulsation dampener have at least 100,000 miles, 944 engine swap?......buy a 944....
it can be modified to perform, but there are things, such as MAJOR porting(p-port, bridge port) that kind of make it a rough street car, if your smart about your mods, its(in my opinion) better then a peaky 4cylinder 944 motor
it can be modified to perform, but there are things, such as MAJOR porting(p-port, bridge port) that kind of make it a rough street car, if your smart about your mods, its(in my opinion) better then a peaky 4cylinder 944 motor
07-15-04, 01:40 PM
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so... if i were to do a custom exhaute wit new cats and a new air filter i wouldnt have too many problems? only when i get to have alot of HP i need to do what?
07-15-04, 01:58 PM
#33
I think I'm addicted
these types of what i consider "normal upgrades"
like cold air intake, cat backs.... i say are painless for every car....
but i think, as said many times in this forum... don't plan on making the 7 a Drag car without spending quite a lot of money.....
instead i say do focus on the handling of the car.... it is a real fun car to drive and its very good handling just makes it better.....
i mean unless u are talking about turbo upgrade or porting..... stuff like that then the "reliability" issue will come up.... but well i think i am safe to say this that if u add a turbo or do any type of polishing and internal engine work to a piston engine, there is still a "reliability" issue... maybe not as big, but still there...
like cold air intake, cat backs.... i say are painless for every car....
but i think, as said many times in this forum... don't plan on making the 7 a Drag car without spending quite a lot of money.....
instead i say do focus on the handling of the car.... it is a real fun car to drive and its very good handling just makes it better.....
i mean unless u are talking about turbo upgrade or porting..... stuff like that then the "reliability" issue will come up.... but well i think i am safe to say this that if u add a turbo or do any type of polishing and internal engine work to a piston engine, there is still a "reliability" issue... maybe not as big, but still there...
07-15-04, 02:04 PM
#34
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Its da same as any other car. It depends on you how you want the engine to be serveiced. When I swap my Jspec TII engine in my 91 coupe. I am gonna do oil changes every 1000-1500 miles. And always flush my coolant every month. I want my car to last long. So Imma service it good. Its up 2 u if u wanna do tha same or better.
07-15-04, 02:08 PM
#35
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O yea, use the good brands like Mobil1. And the reliabilty is closely tha same as any other motor. The only thing is dat one somethin breaks, mostly likely u aint gonna noe wat to do and all da mechanics suck azz cuzz i noe more than them and i jus barely got my rx-7 last November. Jus research and learn your car. Buy manuals and figure out wat is wat. This is how u matain ur car well.
07-15-04, 02:38 PM
#37
I think I'm addicted
Synthetics are motor oil that did not come from "dinosaurs"
correct me if i am wrong anyone ^_^
anyways, synthetics usually last from 7000-15000 miles
while average motor oils must change around 3000-5000 (in piston engines)
synthetics are supposed to give better protection against wear and tear....
but there is a thing (don't know if it is right or not)
that rotaries should not use synthetics
well in my opinion... to be on the safe side, i will use normal motor oil
one thing is rotaries burn 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles
and where i live.... 5 dollars a qt.... its pretty expensive
and rotaries SHOULD change at 2500-3000 miles..... so the cost will catch up on u.....
that is why normal motor oil is good for me ^_^
correct me if i am wrong anyone ^_^
anyways, synthetics usually last from 7000-15000 miles
while average motor oils must change around 3000-5000 (in piston engines)
synthetics are supposed to give better protection against wear and tear....
but there is a thing (don't know if it is right or not)
that rotaries should not use synthetics
well in my opinion... to be on the safe side, i will use normal motor oil
one thing is rotaries burn 1 qt of oil every 1000 miles
and where i live.... 5 dollars a qt.... its pretty expensive
and rotaries SHOULD change at 2500-3000 miles..... so the cost will catch up on u.....
that is why normal motor oil is good for me ^_^
07-15-04, 03:05 PM
#38
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maintenance wise, i check my alternator voltage and heat about every 30 seconds while driving.
checkoil and coolant levels about twice a week.
check idle whenever possible.
add oil once a month
change oil every 3k
you just have to keep on top of it thats all.
checkoil and coolant levels about twice a week.
check idle whenever possible.
add oil once a month
change oil every 3k
you just have to keep on top of it thats all.
07-16-04, 12:18 AM
#39
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I change my oil on my RX-7 every 3000 km. 2.2km = 1 mile so do the math. Thats when i change my oil and she loves to purr right back after that 
.
I'm drivin my first rx-7 right now. Its a 1st gen. its a nice piece of work. They love to go around corners doin double the posted speed. ex. 60km sign, 115 around the corner. Shes pretty quick. Ownz any of those ricers out there that only want there car to "look" and "sound"
cool.
Then just do what everyone else said. oil changes, rad , hoses, etc, etc.
I thought it was a great first car to have. If you wanna rice one out tho.. don't drive a Seven for that. (not to offend anyone) But they discrace 7's, i've seen too many people up here in manitoba driven em yet don't know what to do with em but rice em out
.I'm drivin my first rx-7 right now. Its a 1st gen. its a nice piece of work. They love to go around corners doin double the posted speed. ex. 60km sign, 115 around the corner. Shes pretty quick. Ownz any of those ricers out there that only want there car to "look" and "sound"
cool.
Then just do what everyone else said. oil changes, rad , hoses, etc, etc.
I thought it was a great first car to have. If you wanna rice one out tho.. don't drive a Seven for that. (not to offend anyone) But they discrace 7's, i've seen too many people up here in manitoba driven em yet don't know what to do with em but rice em out
07-16-04, 01:11 AM
#40
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Maintenance is maintenance, the only differance is that in my cavalier, I could put off things, like the oil filter, air filter, oil change, coolant fulsh, ect... and it would still run. I have read that if you do that to a rotary, it will stop, and I don't intend to find out. By the way, I just changed over to a synthetic about 100 miles ago, and it purrs nice. Called Royal Purple. And it's fine in a rotary, here, read this:
Rotary Engines
Can Royal Purple Motor Oil be used in a rotary engine?
Yes. A rotary engine is a modified four cycle engine that recommends the use of an API licensed motor oil for street applications.
More information and FAQs on lubrication of Rotary Engines:
In a rotary engine, the oil lubricates the eccentric shaft bearings, thrust needle bearings and rotor bearings similar to a crank and rod bearing of a piston engine as well as being injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex seals, corner seals, and side seals helping to create the sealing mechanism doing the equivalent job of the piston rings.
Royal Purple provides outstanding protection for the e-shaft, rotor bearings, thrust bearings and is suitable for the oil injection system as it has proven to run cleaner than other oils and is an excellent choice for rotary apex seals, corner seals, and side seals.
Mazda makes a statement in the Owner’s Manual not to use synthetic oils in a rotary engine, why do you say that it is OK?
Royal Purple has performed seal compatibility testing on the components used in a rotary with excellent results, including older rotary engine seals dating back to the Cosmo. Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars and has used synthetic motor oils in rotaries since 1985 with excellent results. He has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.
In the early development of synthetic oils decades ago, there were purportedly some seal compatibility issues. Today’s synthetic oils do not have the compatibility issues of the old oils. There is no substantiated evidence of seal compatibility issues with Royal Purple.
Here are some facts:
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.
Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
I heard that synthetic oil doesn't burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits.
If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.
Conventional four cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal, and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil actually burns cleaner due to the synthetic base stock being free of contamination and many of the additives being ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.
Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil does burn at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged. (500 – 1700° F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)
Will the synthetic oil effect the oil seals?
No. Royal Purple’s Motor Oil is fully compatible with the elastomers found in rotary engines as well as more conventional piston engines. The oil seals, housing seals and other elastomers used in rotary engines typically consist of Buna N, Nitriles, Neoprene, or Viton materials which are also commonly found in piston engine cars.
I hear that synthetic is ‘thinner or lighter’ oil, is there a greater possibility that the oil will leak between the seals?
No. If an engine’s sealing surfaces are in good condition, synthetic oil should not cause any leakage. However, if an engine has marginal seals, there is a 50/50 chance the seals will leak less or more. A synthetic motor oil is going to have similar viscosity to that of a conventional motor oil – except at extreme temperatures. Due to a flatter viscosity curve, at low temperatures it will not thicken as much (easier winter cranking) and it does not thin out as quickly at higher operating temperatures (better oil film at higher rpm).
Should I go longer or shorter between oil changes?
Royal Purple recommends that the maximum oil drain / filter change interval listed in the Owner’s Manual be followed while under warranty (new RX8). For FA, FB, FC, FC Turbos, and FD rotaries, extending drain intervals from two to five fold is possible if desired. Since the rotary engine injects oil through the use of a metered oil pump, either adding oil into the carb base plate air / fuel mixture or directly injecting oil into the rotor housing, rotary engines will consume oil of one quart per 1000 – 3000 miles. It is important to maintain the proper crankcase oil level in your rotary engine if you decide to extend oil drain intervals.
If I pre-mix my fuel for the rotary engine, do I use the same ratio as with mineral based oils? Does it burn at the same rate?
In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings, and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard TCW III 2 Cycle Oil if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending on which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous, turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.
For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our Racing 2 Cycle TCW III product or the standard 2 Cycle TCW III can also be used.
A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich).
...later
. Called Royal Purple. And it's fine in a rotary, here, read this:Rotary Engines
Can Royal Purple Motor Oil be used in a rotary engine?
Yes. A rotary engine is a modified four cycle engine that recommends the use of an API licensed motor oil for street applications.
More information and FAQs on lubrication of Rotary Engines:
In a rotary engine, the oil lubricates the eccentric shaft bearings, thrust needle bearings and rotor bearings similar to a crank and rod bearing of a piston engine as well as being injected into the combustion chambers to lubricate the apex seals, corner seals, and side seals helping to create the sealing mechanism doing the equivalent job of the piston rings.
Royal Purple provides outstanding protection for the e-shaft, rotor bearings, thrust bearings and is suitable for the oil injection system as it has proven to run cleaner than other oils and is an excellent choice for rotary apex seals, corner seals, and side seals.
Mazda makes a statement in the Owner’s Manual not to use synthetic oils in a rotary engine, why do you say that it is OK?
Royal Purple has performed seal compatibility testing on the components used in a rotary with excellent results, including older rotary engine seals dating back to the Cosmo. Royal Purple’s Technical Services Manager David Canitz has been an owner and racer of rotary engine cars and has used synthetic motor oils in rotaries since 1985 with excellent results. He has been trying to find an answer to this Mazda statement for the last 18 years.
In the early development of synthetic oils decades ago, there were purportedly some seal compatibility issues. Today’s synthetic oils do not have the compatibility issues of the old oils. There is no substantiated evidence of seal compatibility issues with Royal Purple.
Here are some facts:
The Mazda Factory racing departments recommend and use ‘synthetic’ oils including the winning 1991 Leman’s 20-G 4 rotor Mazda 787B.
MazdaComp USA printed manual (now Mazdaspeed) recommends the use of synthetic oils for racing conditions.
Royal Purple Motor Oils have been used in rotary engines (both race and street) for ten plus years with excellent results.
Royal Purple Motor Oil is compatible with the bearing material, sealing elastomers, and combustion seals used in a rotary engine.
I heard that synthetic oil doesn't burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits.
If this was a problem with synthetic motor oils in general, then all internal combustion engines using a ‘synthetic’ would experience increased deposits on internal surfaces. The opposite is actually the norm.
Conventional four cycle motor oils will typically leave deposits of carbon and ash when injected into the rotary apex seal, corner seal, and side seal areas. Royal Purple’s motor oil actually burns cleaner due to the synthetic base stock being free of contamination and many of the additives being ‘ashless’. This may not be true for all synthetics but Royal Purple has been proven to work extremely well in rotary engines.
Royal Purple’s formulation of synthetic hydrocarbon motor oil does burn at the nominal combustion temperatures experienced in both street and racing applications, whether normally aspirated, turbocharged, or supercharged. (500 – 1700° F idle to race rpms typical combustion temps)
Will the synthetic oil effect the oil seals?
No. Royal Purple’s Motor Oil is fully compatible with the elastomers found in rotary engines as well as more conventional piston engines. The oil seals, housing seals and other elastomers used in rotary engines typically consist of Buna N, Nitriles, Neoprene, or Viton materials which are also commonly found in piston engine cars.
I hear that synthetic is ‘thinner or lighter’ oil, is there a greater possibility that the oil will leak between the seals?
No. If an engine’s sealing surfaces are in good condition, synthetic oil should not cause any leakage. However, if an engine has marginal seals, there is a 50/50 chance the seals will leak less or more. A synthetic motor oil is going to have similar viscosity to that of a conventional motor oil – except at extreme temperatures. Due to a flatter viscosity curve, at low temperatures it will not thicken as much (easier winter cranking) and it does not thin out as quickly at higher operating temperatures (better oil film at higher rpm).
Should I go longer or shorter between oil changes?
Royal Purple recommends that the maximum oil drain / filter change interval listed in the Owner’s Manual be followed while under warranty (new RX8). For FA, FB, FC, FC Turbos, and FD rotaries, extending drain intervals from two to five fold is possible if desired. Since the rotary engine injects oil through the use of a metered oil pump, either adding oil into the carb base plate air / fuel mixture or directly injecting oil into the rotor housing, rotary engines will consume oil of one quart per 1000 – 3000 miles. It is important to maintain the proper crankcase oil level in your rotary engine if you decide to extend oil drain intervals.
If I pre-mix my fuel for the rotary engine, do I use the same ratio as with mineral based oils? Does it burn at the same rate?
In an ideal world, the rotary engine metered oil pump should inject an ashless oil designed to burn in the combustion chamber and use a four cycle oil in the crankcase for the eccentric shaft, rotor bearings, and thrust bearings. For the street, Mazda simplified the OE system to use just one oil, that being a typical four cycle oil for both the e-shaft as well as the combustion chamber. Royal Purple recommends using our standard TCW III 2 Cycle Oil if the metered oil pump is still enabled. The two cycle oil being added to the fuel tank is in addition to what Mazda designed to inject and acts as a supplement or insurance. Depending on which engine, the level of modifications (street port, Bridgeport, peripheral port, nitrous, turbocharged) and application, the typical mix ratio could vary from 200:1 to 800:1.
For a pure racing application where the metered oil pump has been disabled or removed, again based on the actual engine and modification level, the ratio could vary from 150:1 to 600:1. For this application, we recommend our Racing 2 Cycle TCW III product or the standard 2 Cycle TCW III can also be used.
A stock FD twin turbo 13B with the MOP oil injection system can typically use about one quart per 1500 miles under hard street driving. If this vehicle is getting 15 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio is 400:1. If the oil consumption on this vehicle reduces to 1 quart per 2500 miles and fuel efficiency increases to 20 mpg, the gasoline to oil ratio increases to 600:1. The stock metering oil pump is a great system as it varies with throttle position (load on the engine). Pre-mixing has to be calculated for the ‘worst case’ that will be seen by the engine for that fuel load. Under racing conditions, that’s wide open throttle at racing rpms. This means that at idle, the ratio may be slightly fat (rich).
...later
07-16-04, 03:48 AM
#41
I think I'm addicted
Thank You ^_^
that was great info
and thank you RippingViper. This statement is worth the "extra" maintanence in our rotaries
To be honest, i don't think rotaries are high maintanence at all...... the ENGINE itself is relatively simple (so to speak) and if properly cared for, is very reliable i'd say....
performance wise... i just finished arguing with my friend regarding pistons vs rotary.....
truly i think it is personal preference
as aznpoopy said
i think CARE is the key word....
don't know if u heard about the high maintanence rumor of old supras also
well i think it extends to all sports cars.... if u want a sports car... no matter what it is (please don't say civic...) then u would not only take care of it because u have to... but u would WANT to take better care of it because that car is WORTH the extra care u'll give it
that was great info
Ownz any of those ricers out there that only want there car to "look" and "sound"
To be honest, i don't think rotaries are high maintanence at all...... the ENGINE itself is relatively simple (so to speak) and if properly cared for, is very reliable i'd say....
performance wise... i just finished arguing with my friend regarding pistons vs rotary.....
truly i think it is personal preference
as aznpoopy said
if previous owner did not care for car
piston - *may* will still work
rotary - will rape you up the butt (maybe)
piston - *may* will still work
rotary - will rape you up the butt (maybe)
don't know if u heard about the high maintanence rumor of old supras also
well i think it extends to all sports cars.... if u want a sports car... no matter what it is (please don't say civic...) then u would not only take care of it because u have to... but u would WANT to take better care of it because that car is WORTH the extra care u'll give it
07-16-04, 10:01 AM
#42
strike up the paean
Originally posted by Homie D
so... if i were to do a custom exhaute wit new cats and a new air filter i wouldnt have too many problems? only when i get to have alot of HP i need to do what?
so... if i were to do a custom exhaute wit new cats and a new air filter i wouldnt have too many problems? only when i get to have alot of HP i need to do what?
for a fast FC, just get a RX7 turbo II. however, if you buy a turbo II, don't expect it to last for a super long time before you need to rebuild it. after all, these are decade+ old turbocharged rotaries we're talking about.
FC3S n/a is not very fast. its fun as hell to drive though.
07-19-04, 01:13 PM
#43
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Originally Posted by RippingViper
I change my oil on my RX-7 every 3000 km. 2.2km = 1 mile so do the math. Thats when i change my oil and she loves to purr right back after that .
.
07-19-04, 01:36 PM
#44
Originally Posted by RippingViper
They love to go around corners doin double the posted speed. ex. 60km sign, 115 around the corner. Shes pretty quick.
"35mph on-ramp or off-ramp? No traffic? I should be able to pull 70 through there." *zoom* *slight tire squeel* *bigass grin*
And if you do it in 3rd, you're at about 6000 RPM at the end. Quick blip of the throttle, burst up to speed, upshift.
-=Russ=-
07-19-04, 01:58 PM
#45
Originally Posted by Homie D
So people are telling me "DONT FOOL WITH THE MOTOR" . does this mean i cant upgrade the parts and get aftermarket parts without having alot of problems? I want a car I can upgrade to make faster. But how fast is the RX7 stock? 1/4 mile? 0-60? torque? top speed? ect...
Sounds like you're a high school kid to me, seeing as you didn't bother to pay attention to my last post that explained it all to you... (if not, my guess is ADD... see a doctor)
Buy a Cavalier, put stickers on it, and wreck it a few times, then, once you've learned to drive/take care of a car, buy a 7. All the things you're asking are asked 5 times a day on this board... by people like you, who don't pay attention to the answers. The car IS NOT FAST in a drag racing way, stock, what you'll be buying likely won't handle that well either (will probably need new struts, brakes, and DEFINITELY need new bushings, which is expensive to have done (500 bucks) or a major pain to do yourself (I've done it)... )
On an unrelated note, where the hell are my smilies... it's hard to make fun of people without smilies, I've gotta rely on wit alone, and I doubt this guy has high enough reading comprehension for that to work...
07-19-04, 02:26 PM
#46
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Damn thats a long *** explaination about the synthetic oil.
The thing is that most synthetic oils are PAO (polyalphaolefin) based and contain phosphates and sulfates as anti scuffing agents. At around 300-400 degrees F, they do their job just like they are supposed to, and work really well at it too. They dont leave any buildup or residue on moving parts.
In the combustion chamber, where temperatures can be between 2000 and 3000 degrees F, they simply break down and leave a nasty ash residue behind. This is the residue that Mazda didnt want in the combustion chamber, and thats why they said no synthetics in rotaries. There are other synthetics (Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc...) that are polyol ester based do not need phosphates and sulfates as additives. These are the ones that are "OK" to use in a rotary engine.
This doesnt mean that Mobil 1 wont work (it has one of the highest sulfate contents), you may use Mobil 1 your entire life in a rotary and it will still run. But personally, I would rather not have to worry about a chunk of crap coming off of my rotor face and tearing apart my apex seal. So for me using amsoil is just a bit of insurance for the money ive invested in my car.
The thing is that most synthetic oils are PAO (polyalphaolefin) based and contain phosphates and sulfates as anti scuffing agents. At around 300-400 degrees F, they do their job just like they are supposed to, and work really well at it too. They dont leave any buildup or residue on moving parts.
In the combustion chamber, where temperatures can be between 2000 and 3000 degrees F, they simply break down and leave a nasty ash residue behind. This is the residue that Mazda didnt want in the combustion chamber, and thats why they said no synthetics in rotaries. There are other synthetics (Redline, Royal Purple, Amsoil, etc...) that are polyol ester based do not need phosphates and sulfates as additives. These are the ones that are "OK" to use in a rotary engine.
This doesnt mean that Mobil 1 wont work (it has one of the highest sulfate contents), you may use Mobil 1 your entire life in a rotary and it will still run. But personally, I would rather not have to worry about a chunk of crap coming off of my rotor face and tearing apart my apex seal. So for me using amsoil is just a bit of insurance for the money ive invested in my car.
07-19-04, 10:38 PM
#49
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why are people always tryna knock people on this forum. I have a car. I been having it for a while. 93 accord. now i want a RX7. get off my nuts *****