Ok, this is a very subjective question, but just how good are the 4 piston calipers suppose to be? Iv been having a lot of break issues. I did find that one of my caliper pistons was totally frozen in and I rebuilt them. I had high hopes that it would be a breaking monster after the rebuild, but it wasn’t that much better.

Heres how my breaks are:
The engagement point when the brakes start working is pretty close to the floor out of the entire brake pedal travel, it seems like the engagement point is in the last 35%.

I can’t lock my tires, and I don’t have ABS. It can get kinda close, but when the pedal is to the floor, it’s still rolling...

All this adds up to shitty performance on the track.

Now, theres a difference between stabbing the breaks and locking them VS going into them easy and then locking them. I’m sure if I just stabbed the pedal, it could lock, this is because of the shocking force and lack of weight travel onto the front tires.

How do your breaks feel? can you slowly roll into them and lock them up?

I have bled the **** out of the system, rebuilt them, bench bled, and replaced the master cyl. The only things left seem to be the vacuum assist and the proportioning valve.

any ideas what could be wrong?

 

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pedal adjust?

well my brakes are very linear.

Full lock at about 1/2 pedal.

Easily locks up 245's all around

i have -

brembo's that were crossed/drilled
SS brake lines
Some pretty good pads

Love the brakes

 

that's what i was thinking sesshounmaru.

 

You didn't change that stupid booster vac tube did you?

I'm still pissed about that engineering marvel...

 

yeah, the pads im using are supposed to be pretty good.. the feel like the others iv had too.. Im running some Rotex pads, they cost be about $75. And i have brembo rotors too.

 

if you enguagement is low and you swear you dont' have air i would look into your master

your not moving the fluid you need or your stock rubbies are just expanding way tooooo far.

 

it might be the stock rubber lines... its like im stepping on a spring. No.. its not the master, im sure of that.

 

it's been a while since i drove nasty rubber lines but slap a pair on.

great investment. only like 80 bucks.

dry off all the brake components/fitting/connectors and watch for fluid. There could be a pin hole leak somewhere in you system.

 

Get the SS brake lines from corksport or w/e. That sounds like all thats left to replace heh

 

I'm thinking your master cyl. is bad if the brakes don't engage right away, but I would check pedal adjustment pushrod first.

Regarding how good stock brakes can be, I can pull .8+ negative G before my rear tires start to lock up, and I could probably lock the fronts and spin the car if I was crazy enough to try. Pads are generic rears and EBC blue front on the five lug rotors using stock nylon hoses and Dot3 fluid. I start to engage the brakes after an inch, two tops, of pedal travel.

There is hope. Stock five lug brakes can work very well. My car weighs 2600lbs max with me in it, which also may play a role in brake ability.

 

You also gotta remember- when hauling ***, the brakes always feel like there should be something more there...

 

Bwahaha. Only if you misjudged your turn entry and are looking at either hitting the side of the road with the front of the car or the rear. Slow in fast out is with some light trail braking on entry is golden with tuned RWD cars.