+1 I have had the omp removed and run pre-mix @ 100:1 since purchase and I have had no problems so far. If you do some research you will find the pro's & cons. basically pre-mix is superior to the Omp in every way. the only drawback is when you let off the accelerator - no gas/no oil.

oh and make sure you run TCW3 certified oil, (usually found in outboard "boat" 2 cycle oil) TCW3 means that it will remain suspended in the fuel mixing very well throughout the mixture

ok im catchin on lol seems like this car is gunna be fun =] THANK YOU EVERYONE especially those of u who werent being dicks cause im new at these rotarys

Regular maintenance, tuning and a nice radiator are fine ideas for reliability. Alky or water injection is a bit more trouble but could be worth it. But premixing oil into your gasoline every time you fill up is a lot of trouble. And means no oil in the engine internals if you forget. All for a cleaner engine when dirtiness isn't a common cause of engine failure (knocking and overheats are). I'd keep the OMP for now and maybe later feed it with a plastic tank full of two stroke rather than deleting it.

Just do everything in steps. Most of the "Rx7 Problem" videos on youtube are due to not having the right setups. At least you came here before putting a new turbo on and running at like 20 PSI with no other tuning. Everything must be gradually and carefully done, kind of like making LSD...

Thanks guys i appreciate it , im tryin to make sure this gets done right and you guys are helping alot

I wouldn't say all that. The crazy Puerto Ricans that built the Time Machine RX7 was running 8's on stock rear, stock axles, and stock suspension.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dkpmet7bG2M

Jackhild59 you beat me by a few posts. I was going to post the same link. For the OP, there is a lot of good info to be researched on:

http://www.fc3spro.com/main.html
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/

except for the fact that its a 20+ year old car and the omp lines are usualy cracked and crappy as long as it is not an s5 removing the omp and premixing is the way to go

and for the person who said when you lift off the accelerator equals no gas=no oil .... if you were not getting gas your car would not be running now would it ..... so at idle you car is still getting gas and hence oil unlike the mech omp where the bar is completely up therefore no oil injection

i used it as more of a baseline figure, anything above that you are taking the longevity aspect into your own hands and those guys have spares on shelves lying around just in case. like aaron's test of the n/a tranny which held 450 to the wheels where others have broken the stock tranny just daily driving cruising, or people who have sheared eccentric shafts in half while idling where others have had stock shafts push 700+WHP down. some are freak occurrences but there is a standard line to where you just start breaking things more readily.

plenty of FC draggers have blown rear ends with less torque than a V8 off the line.

everyone is bringing very valid points to the table lol , after a few of these posts im thinkin i got this figured out im goin for the 300-350 whp mark now

Except that's exactly what most fuel injected cars do on over-run - cut fuel to the injectors. The car's still running, because the engine is being driven by the transmission. Fuel delivery usually resumes when revs drop below a certain point (~12-1500 rpm), or of course if the clutch is disengaged, so that the engine is no longer being driven, or if the throttle is opened.

Lack of pre-lube or OMP lube on lift-throttle isn't usually a problem, as under no-load minimal oiling is needed, and the chamber and iron surfaces are designed to retain oil anyway.

if you lift off the accelerator above 1800rpm, the injector wont fire, therefore no premix will be injected, but it will not hurt anything since the residual oil that is still left in the housing surface is sufficient enough. If you are coasting for mins at a time above 1800rpm (which is pretty much unrealistic) then damage will occur.

I wouldnt call it no-load per se, since its basically engine braking, but it will not harm the engine.