How to get 300hp?
 

Hey guys , ive done alot of searching and im comin up with nothin , im new to rotarys. jus got my rx7 about a week ago...

my car has 75k , motor was rebuilt 3k ago ... im lookin to hit the 270 - 300ish hp range (wanna keep it as a daily) what would the best mods to achieve this ?

ive been told some big injectors and a good dyno tune would put me in the high 200's ... 270+.. can some1 help me get this figured out please

its a 1987 FC TII , completly stock fresh rebuild , tranny is coming out next week to be rebuilt

1. turbo
2. V8 swap

Bnr hybrid turbo, RTEK chipped ecu, 750cc injectors, walbro.

+1....This is probably the cheapest way to do it. Dont forget to add a wideband 02 so you can be sure the AFR's are safe with higher boost.

wow thats exactly what i was looking for thank you very much , i was looking at the rtek ecu's ... can u put the 2.1 on a stock motor ? or should i just do all the upgrades at the same time ??and as for the turbo , stage 1 or 2 ?? im looking for quality and reliability , im willing to pay to achieve that

5.7liters

lol my s13 was a v8 im liking the no piston idea haha what do u guys do to the rear end that v8 these things ?? complete swap ?

You CAN put a 2.1 on a stock motor, just realize that the 2.1 lets the user make their own fuel map.

For a V8 swap, people just use the turbo rear end with a custom driveshaft.

leave it alone, the stock FC turbo rear axle can handle as much as the LS1 can throw at it short of drag launches on stickies.

thanks , ya my plan is to get all this setup and have the ecu dyno tuned / programed by a shop

so what did u do for motor / tranny mount ? custom fab or they actually sell a kit ..? how about wiring harness ?

me? i have 1.3liters of raw fury still but i answer that way when i get upset that people on this forum don't do research and miss reading my sig. ;)


anyways, find a tuner in your area who works on RX7s who will be tuning the car and follow their advice first before going out and just buying any ECU suggested to you. you may find that no one around you will touch an Rtek, or will charge you grossly more because they are a novice standalone and require HOURS of painstaking adjustments one live cell at a time.. so what did you save by buying an rtek if you aren't going to tune it yourself? nothing, because unecessary tuning/dyno time could have bought you a REAL standalone. Rtek is for the DIYer.

Try clicking your heels together 3 times while saying "There's nothing like 300hp, there's nothing like 300hp, there's nothing like 300hp." And it will be so.:lol:

why u gotta lie to me ..? i tried and it still is stock turboII lol

but i did do research ... i couldnt find no thread of what mods were needed to build a reliable 300hp 7

Yes the rtek 2.1 runs the car completely stock. Then you can upgrade other things as you want.
My suggestion.
1. Rtek
2. Racing beat turbo back
3. bigger injectors. You can run 720X4 with the Rtek and you can tune for larger ones if you need to. (Check ou t Rtek sectoin of forum)
4. Inter cooler
5. BNR stage 4

The BNR will pull down your Boost to 6-8psi from the 10psi that you would get with the Boost creep of the exhaust. I don't know if you will need a controller to acheive that but this will make one sweet 7.
Check the Rtek section you can get alot more info there.

sweet i already got the racing beat turbo back lol stage 4 for 300hp is a little excessive ya ? lol thank you for the info !

screw the BNR, look at the "build your own hybrid turbo" thread on the front page..

then you need a standalone, refer to my previous modified post.

then you need fuel system upgrades: walbro or supra pump, 720/720 or larger injector combination

free flowing intake and exhaust

a professional tuner or enough excess to cover a rebuild or 2.

ok thank you karack , sorry for being so nooby but this is my 1st rx7 and i bought one hell of a beautiful car now i want it to be as quick as hell , i got the fund just lookin for some guidence on whats best for these motors

300 with minimal work/cheap/reliable = rteck 2.1, BNR stage 2 (but the stage 3 costs the same as 2 so you might as well get the 3) 550/720 or 720/720 injectors, exhaust, walbro fuel pump, your going to need a boost controller, BOV, and to put it over the edge but not needed a front mount or v-mount intercooler to keep the temps down...... the thing you really need to know is it all depends on a good tune there was someone on here making 300hp with the rteck 2.1 and a stage 1 bnr and there are plenty of ppl on here running a similar setup that share fuel and timing maps you can use and modify to get a good starting point

for reliability I would recommend removing all the emissions stuff and the omp and start premixing

You could simply tie 100 horses to the front of it, and wallah 300hp.

In all seriousness what sort of budget are you looking at investing?

Reliability mods you might consider:

Water/Meth injection
Koyo (or equal) radiator
OMP delete and Premix

The Rtek and BNR are the "cheap" way to get to 300hp. If you have deep pockets you might want to step up to a Stand Alone (PFC, Haltech, etc) and a Garrett (or similar turbo).

A megasquirt might be the way to go if you are handy at soldering, and it's an affordable option similar to the Rtek, but it's a stand alone.

what do u guys mean premixing ?

and i plan on having a shop dyno tune it so based off what ive been thold in this thread ima get a standalone

No, you did not.

http://fc3spro.com/TECH/FM2W/power.htm

-Jack

Think of a rotary engine like a 2 cycle engine. The OMP (oil metering pump) injects oil into the engine at the injectors to keep it lubricated.

You can mix 2 cycle oil with your gas like a weedeater or chainsaw (not 50:1), but 1oz/gal and add the oil to your gas tank first so it will mix with the gas correctly.

+1 I have had the omp removed and run pre-mix @ 100:1 since purchase and I have had no problems so far. If you do some research you will find the pro's & cons. basically pre-mix is superior to the Omp in every way. the only drawback is when you let off the accelerator - no gas/no oil.

oh and make sure you run TCW3 certified oil, (usually found in outboard "boat" 2 cycle oil) TCW3 means that it will remain suspended in the fuel mixing very well throughout the mixture

ok im catchin on lol seems like this car is gunna be fun =] THANK YOU EVERYONE especially those of u who werent being dicks cause im new at these rotarys

Regular maintenance, tuning and a nice radiator are fine ideas for reliability. Alky or water injection is a bit more trouble but could be worth it. But premixing oil into your gasoline every time you fill up is a lot of trouble. And means no oil in the engine internals if you forget. All for a cleaner engine when dirtiness isn't a common cause of engine failure (knocking and overheats are). I'd keep the OMP for now and maybe later feed it with a plastic tank full of two stroke rather than deleting it.

Just do everything in steps. Most of the "Rx7 Problem" videos on youtube are due to not having the right setups. At least you came here before putting a new turbo on and running at like 20 PSI with no other tuning. Everything must be gradually and carefully done, kind of like making LSD...

Thanks guys i appreciate it , im tryin to make sure this gets done right and you guys are helping alot

I wouldn't say all that. The crazy Puerto Ricans that built the Time Machine RX7 was running 8's on stock rear, stock axles, and stock suspension.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dkpmet7bG2M

Jackhild59 you beat me by a few posts. I was going to post the same link. For the OP, there is a lot of good info to be researched on:

http://www.fc3spro.com/main.html
http://www.teamfc3s.org/main/
http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/

except for the fact that its a 20+ year old car and the omp lines are usualy cracked and crappy as long as it is not an s5 removing the omp and premixing is the way to go

and for the person who said when you lift off the accelerator equals no gas=no oil .... if you were not getting gas your car would not be running now would it ..... so at idle you car is still getting gas and hence oil unlike the mech omp where the bar is completely up therefore no oil injection

i used it as more of a baseline figure, anything above that you are taking the longevity aspect into your own hands and those guys have spares on shelves lying around just in case. like aaron's test of the n/a tranny which held 450 to the wheels where others have broken the stock tranny just daily driving cruising, or people who have sheared eccentric shafts in half while idling where others have had stock shafts push 700+WHP down. some are freak occurrences but there is a standard line to where you just start breaking things more readily.

plenty of FC draggers have blown rear ends with less torque than a V8 off the line.

everyone is bringing very valid points to the table lol , after a few of these posts im thinkin i got this figured out im goin for the 300-350 whp mark now

Except that's exactly what most fuel injected cars do on over-run - cut fuel to the injectors. The car's still running, because the engine is being driven by the transmission. Fuel delivery usually resumes when revs drop below a certain point (~12-1500 rpm), or of course if the clutch is disengaged, so that the engine is no longer being driven, or if the throttle is opened.

Lack of pre-lube or OMP lube on lift-throttle isn't usually a problem, as under no-load minimal oiling is needed, and the chamber and iron surfaces are designed to retain oil anyway.

if you lift off the accelerator above 1800rpm, the injector wont fire, therefore no premix will be injected, but it will not hurt anything since the residual oil that is still left in the housing surface is sufficient enough. If you are coasting for mins at a time above 1800rpm (which is pretty much unrealistic) then damage will occur.

I wouldnt call it no-load per se, since its basically engine braking, but it will not harm the engine.