How on earth do you take off the rear end?
06-01-03, 04:07 AM
#1
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How on earth do you take off the rear end?
Tried to put in my Torsen today. Spent approx. 6 hours getting the everything off, then discovered that there was no way to take out the diff.
The three bolts on the side of the pumpkin took forever to take out, and when we finally got them off we found that we couldn't get the three pins lose because, well, the yolks are mounted on vertically, while the three pins are mounted horizontally. Tried to follow the FSM method of letting the left yolk drop but it didn't work.
Does anyone know or have experience in taking off the diff? I am so stuck...pls help coz it's my daily driver, and now it's sitting in my friend's garage on jackstands and I have no ride!
Preeeease helpu!
The three bolts on the side of the pumpkin took forever to take out, and when we finally got them off we found that we couldn't get the three pins lose because, well, the yolks are mounted on vertically, while the three pins are mounted horizontally. Tried to follow the FSM method of letting the left yolk drop but it didn't work.
Does anyone know or have experience in taking off the diff? I am so stuck...pls help coz it's my daily driver, and now it's sitting in my friend's garage on jackstands and I have no ride!
Preeeease helpu!
06-01-03, 04:31 AM
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Another thing...I searched on the forum and a lot of ppl mentioned that dropping the rear subframe helps. While I am pretty sure that it makes taking off the bolts easier (which I already did anyways), how does dropping the rear subframe help you get those pins off the whateveritismountedon, since you can't move the diff horizontally with the yolk ("ears") still stuck on the two bolts?
06-01-03, 05:30 AM
#3
Drop the whole subframe. It is the easiest way to work on the rear components, and it comes down quickly, as long as you have a floor jack to support it. Not sure what your referring to-Pins-(Diff mount)-Unbolts from diff and subframe. I have an complete TII subframe in back garage with everything attached. Would take a walk up, but it is pouring here in NJ right now. Of course, that is noting new....It's been raining all month.
06-01-03, 10:54 AM
#4
Rotary Freak
Hey I am doing a big write up on how to convert an auto to manual,
here is an exerpt from the write up I am doing.
Step 4: Rear End Swap
you should definetly swap out your rear end, unless you want more top end and less torque?
Make sure you have a floor jack under the Rear end Throughout most of this process.
Dont forget to remove all exhaust equipment and heat sheilds.
Disconnect the drive shaft from the rear end on the manual trans donor car.
To remove the rear end remove the rear Shafts from the center pig, just remove all four 14mm bolts on both sides and wiggle them loose.
Now you can remove the two bolts that hold in the rear of the pig.
now come around to the front of the pig and put down your manual, you see the three bolts they want you to remove are near impossible to get out.
Look to the other side of the front mount and you will see two nuts, we will go for those.
Disconnect the rear sway bar from the spindles, follow the main rear end assembly mounting brace to the front and you will see two main mounting points, one on each side, I beleive they are 21mm.
First you have to remove the safety brackets that bolt to them, they are 14mm and bolted to the frame, remove them then remove the bigger bolts.
Now the whole rear end assembly should drop enough to get to the two front mounting nuts we talked about on the pig.
You will now remove the little plate that sits right behind where the nuts where.
The rear end now should lift up and out the rear on the car.
When you remove the rear end from the automatic trans car you can leave the driveshaft attached since we will not be using it and it will pull right out the back of the car with the rear end.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
here is an exerpt from the write up I am doing.
Step 4: Rear End Swap
you should definetly swap out your rear end, unless you want more top end and less torque?
Make sure you have a floor jack under the Rear end Throughout most of this process.
Dont forget to remove all exhaust equipment and heat sheilds.
Disconnect the drive shaft from the rear end on the manual trans donor car.
To remove the rear end remove the rear Shafts from the center pig, just remove all four 14mm bolts on both sides and wiggle them loose.
Now you can remove the two bolts that hold in the rear of the pig.
now come around to the front of the pig and put down your manual, you see the three bolts they want you to remove are near impossible to get out.
Look to the other side of the front mount and you will see two nuts, we will go for those.
Disconnect the rear sway bar from the spindles, follow the main rear end assembly mounting brace to the front and you will see two main mounting points, one on each side, I beleive they are 21mm.
First you have to remove the safety brackets that bolt to them, they are 14mm and bolted to the frame, remove them then remove the bigger bolts.
Now the whole rear end assembly should drop enough to get to the two front mounting nuts we talked about on the pig.
You will now remove the little plate that sits right behind where the nuts where.
The rear end now should lift up and out the rear on the car.
When you remove the rear end from the automatic trans car you can leave the driveshaft attached since we will not be using it and it will pull right out the back of the car with the rear end.
Installation is the reverse of removal.
Last edited by V8kilr; 06-01-03 at 10:58 AM.
06-01-03, 02:00 PM
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Look to the other side of the front mount and you will see two nuts, we will go for those.
06-01-03, 05:42 PM
#7
Rotary Freak
Originally posted by Rotary Dawg
So instead of the three impossible ones, I should go and take off the mount instead? Is this what you mean by that?
So instead of the three impossible ones, I should go and take off the mount instead? Is this what you mean by that?
once you drop the whole rear end assembly about 6" down you will be able to take the two nuts off and pop the small bracket out and the rear end will lift up and pull out.
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06-02-03, 06:31 AM
#8
The mystery of the prize.
It's easy, I've done it 4 times now with just hand tools and the car on jack stands.
remove the 2 nuts holding the diff (on the two vertical studs furthest back) and remove the 2 nuts holding the subframe on (these are at the front edges of the subframe), remove the two brackets that go over the front mount points of the subframe so you can drop it down.
you then remove the camber link (kinda in the middle of the subframe/diff assembly)
you want to have the diff/subframe supported by a single piece of wood when you drop it, because they are connected only by an elastic junction (the diff mount)... so take a big piece of wood and place it under the subframe center and diff housing, and put a floor jack kindof in the middle, you want to balance the whole assembly on the wood and try keep it parallel to the car.
once you have the 4 nuts, and the camber link disconnected, you drop the sub frame and differential as one, you have to make sure it stays parallel to the car or you're going to get stuck on the studs, the wood really helps here.
this assumes you have the exhaust, drive shafft, and axles already disconnected.
it can be helpful to disconnect the coilovers on the rear from the suspension but is not necessary.
once it's all down on the jack, you can reach the two nuts on the diff mount attaching it to the sub frame, i needed a torch on mine to get them to break loose, if you have an impact wrench they should come right off.... but i am in an area that snows/salt so it was kinda rusty, your mileage may vary.
once the two nuts are off, remove the metal plate retainer off the studs, and they should be able to move vertically off the flange, and you can pivot the differential back and down off the subframe... new one goes right in and installation is the reverse.
use the wood during installation, getting the subframe mounts and diff mounts on the studs is a complete pain in the *** if you don't have the assembly parallel to the car and straight, make sure the wood is supporting both the diff and the subframe. If you don't do this when you try to lift the assembly up into the car and get it on all 4 studs, the center will sag making the distance between the front and rear mounts shorter than the distance between the studs. Use the floor jack and wood and it will be much easier to do. Again, the coilovers being disconnected here made it easier for me, they kept screwing with the balance of things making it hard to get the assembly to go up parallel to the car.
good luck.
remove the 2 nuts holding the diff (on the two vertical studs furthest back) and remove the 2 nuts holding the subframe on (these are at the front edges of the subframe), remove the two brackets that go over the front mount points of the subframe so you can drop it down.
you then remove the camber link (kinda in the middle of the subframe/diff assembly)
you want to have the diff/subframe supported by a single piece of wood when you drop it, because they are connected only by an elastic junction (the diff mount)... so take a big piece of wood and place it under the subframe center and diff housing, and put a floor jack kindof in the middle, you want to balance the whole assembly on the wood and try keep it parallel to the car.
once you have the 4 nuts, and the camber link disconnected, you drop the sub frame and differential as one, you have to make sure it stays parallel to the car or you're going to get stuck on the studs, the wood really helps here.
this assumes you have the exhaust, drive shafft, and axles already disconnected.
it can be helpful to disconnect the coilovers on the rear from the suspension but is not necessary.
once it's all down on the jack, you can reach the two nuts on the diff mount attaching it to the sub frame, i needed a torch on mine to get them to break loose, if you have an impact wrench they should come right off.... but i am in an area that snows/salt so it was kinda rusty, your mileage may vary.
once the two nuts are off, remove the metal plate retainer off the studs, and they should be able to move vertically off the flange, and you can pivot the differential back and down off the subframe... new one goes right in and installation is the reverse.
use the wood during installation, getting the subframe mounts and diff mounts on the studs is a complete pain in the *** if you don't have the assembly parallel to the car and straight, make sure the wood is supporting both the diff and the subframe. If you don't do this when you try to lift the assembly up into the car and get it on all 4 studs, the center will sag making the distance between the front and rear mounts shorter than the distance between the studs. Use the floor jack and wood and it will be much easier to do. Again, the coilovers being disconnected here made it easier for me, they kept screwing with the balance of things making it hard to get the assembly to go up parallel to the car.
good luck.
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