How does the ACV work?
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Look at the front of the pleneum. Make sure the lowest vacuum hose is going to the drivers side of the engine. You cannot swap these two small hose and the car work right. In the jpg its colored RED.
A word of caution. These solenoids have 12v going to the black/white wire on their connectors at all times. What makes the solenoids work, is a ground signal from the ECU. Thats why I wish you had a digital volt meter. Just sensing voltage with the device you have isn't going to really help all that much
A word of caution. These solenoids have 12v going to the black/white wire on their connectors at all times. What makes the solenoids work, is a ground signal from the ECU. Thats why I wish you had a digital volt meter. Just sensing voltage with the device you have isn't going to really help all that much
Passenger
Posts: n/a
HAILER...Hey i went out n bought a voltmeter to do the test..on the black wire of the solenoid ther is 12volts goin thru it and 2volts going thru the blue. And i went over the two hoses next to each other on the ACV they both absolutely have no vacuum goin thru it.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Great. Thanks for buying the meter. The 2v on the blue confirms that there is a voltage drop from 12v and the thing is working. For some reason your not getting vacuum thru them.
Use care when taking the vac hose off the solenoids. The plastic nipples break fairly easy.
In fact the first thing I'd check is those three vac hose on the front of the dynamic chamber. One large one on top, and two smaller ones below. The only one that is actually pulling a vacuum is the bottom one. That one should be going off to the drivers side of the engine like I said before. If they are swapped the engine will run rough at idle and a little weird.
Use care when taking the vac hose off the solenoids. The plastic nipples break fairly easy.
In fact the first thing I'd check is those three vac hose on the front of the dynamic chamber. One large one on top, and two smaller ones below. The only one that is actually pulling a vacuum is the bottom one. That one should be going off to the drivers side of the engine like I said before. If they are swapped the engine will run rough at idle and a little weird.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
hey hailer.. Today i pulled the hose from the blue solenoid.. both had no vacuum in them. so i checked the three hoses on the plenem.. and the bottom hose doesnt go to the to the driver side...it goes right under the throttle to the passenger side. so i swapped the two hoses n got vacuum from the solenoid. i was wondering where is lower whose from the pleneum suppose to connect to? because when i switched the two hoses the length of the hoses were not exact fit
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
See the small electrical connector on the back of the altermator? About three inches down, and in line with that plug, there is a pipe sticking straight up. Thats where the bottom hose on the dynamic chamber goes. Once you get that hose going where its supposed to go, you should be able to reconnect everything and then with the engine at idle, pull each of the two vac hose just above the acv off and feel a vacuum coming from each hose.
Your car should idle a bit better and not shake as much when the hose are put where they belong. Back in a bit. Gotta go get some spray lubricant.
Your car should idle a bit better and not shake as much when the hose are put where they belong. Back in a bit. Gotta go get some spray lubricant.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
hey..yup the bottom hose is goin to the the small pipe now ...there is vacuum going thru the two ACV hoses and the silencer hose isnt blowing out air constantly.an blows only when i rev the engine up. engine feels like it idles much better ndoesnt seem to have that warm up stall n e more...=) i uploaded the picture to make sure that this was the pipe...
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
I'm a little confused by the picture, but if you are now pulling vac at the two vac hose above the acv, you've got the hoses going to the right places.
An explantion of the two upper hose. The large one and the one just below are just finding a path thru the throttle body which ends up in front of the throttle plates. If you ever take off the plastic duct that attaches to the throttle body(held with two 12mm socket size nuts), you'll see a quater inch size hole b/t the two secondary throttle plates. Those two upper hose are just looking for some filtered air. Not suction.
The large hose goes to your oil injector spider and the small hose below it goes to the primary injector *bleed*. Called bleed air. Both in essence are a part of your idle circuit along with their other jobs in life.
At idle, if you pull either of the top hose off, and maintain idle by pushing on the throttle, you'll find that the suction comes from the direction of the hose themselves, not the throttle body, like the very bottom hose.
Anyway, glad thats straightened out. Say, since you spent good money on the meter, why not check and see if your tps is up to snuff? Find the tps and its harness. The harness is about ten inches long, then it meets up and connects to the engine harness. Look at the engine harness that connects to the tps harness. See one of the wires that is green with a red stripe??? Find a good ground for your meters black lead, then put the positive lead in the back of the plug where the green/red wire is. If the engine is fully warmed up(hot is better) your meter should read one volt. If it does not read one volt, turn the tps's screw until the meter reads one volt. Blip the throttle and see if it maintains one volt. Anything b/t 0.95 and 1.05 meets my specs.
Any other problems with the acv??? Seems to be working. At 3500 the acv should start relieving overboard like you talked about.
An explantion of the two upper hose. The large one and the one just below are just finding a path thru the throttle body which ends up in front of the throttle plates. If you ever take off the plastic duct that attaches to the throttle body(held with two 12mm socket size nuts), you'll see a quater inch size hole b/t the two secondary throttle plates. Those two upper hose are just looking for some filtered air. Not suction.
The large hose goes to your oil injector spider and the small hose below it goes to the primary injector *bleed*. Called bleed air. Both in essence are a part of your idle circuit along with their other jobs in life.
At idle, if you pull either of the top hose off, and maintain idle by pushing on the throttle, you'll find that the suction comes from the direction of the hose themselves, not the throttle body, like the very bottom hose.
Anyway, glad thats straightened out. Say, since you spent good money on the meter, why not check and see if your tps is up to snuff? Find the tps and its harness. The harness is about ten inches long, then it meets up and connects to the engine harness. Look at the engine harness that connects to the tps harness. See one of the wires that is green with a red stripe??? Find a good ground for your meters black lead, then put the positive lead in the back of the plug where the green/red wire is. If the engine is fully warmed up(hot is better) your meter should read one volt. If it does not read one volt, turn the tps's screw until the meter reads one volt. Blip the throttle and see if it maintains one volt. Anything b/t 0.95 and 1.05 meets my specs.
Any other problems with the acv??? Seems to be working. At 3500 the acv should start relieving overboard like you talked about.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
sounds like the ACV problem is good..but i wonder why they were switched? i brought it to the shop last year cuz i had the aircare problem n passed with the hoses the switched. strange. but yeah everything seems to be on track. i just did an oil change n the whole tune up thing before i go aircare. im goin to test the tps tonight as you said...great info from you,ive learnt so much about my seven ..my respect goes out to you.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
They're easy to accidently cross. Don't know how you passed last year if they were crossed. Could be you have a real good catalytic converter. I looked harder at the pic and the hose are right now.
Be sure the car is fully heated up prior to doing the tps check. Drive it a mile or two just before doing setting the tps. If you set it as described above in the other post, leave the car running while you check it. Just don't get your leads or hands in the fan and belts.
Be sure the car is fully heated up prior to doing the tps check. Drive it a mile or two just before doing setting the tps. If you set it as described above in the other post, leave the car running while you check it. Just don't get your leads or hands in the fan and belts.
Passenger
Posts: n/a
yeah last year before the test i had bought new cats to get it to pass. but this year i failed in the HC idle test badly!! like i was allowed apporx 180 ppm n my reading was apporx 900 ppm....hmm if this is so maybe my cats are toasted by now...darn!...
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Ah! I see what this is all about now. The acv was not working and making you fail emissions. Its definetly working now. I don't really know a lot about catalytic converters, but everytime I hear someone make a statement about how the cat will burn up and clogg if you run without a airpump or acv, there's a little voice inside that says *bull*. Little voice could be wrong though.
