viperkiller7

iTrader: (11)

How do you get the nut off the e-shaft to put on an underdrive pully?Is it reverse thread. I know you have to have the clutch in when taking it off. Is there a way without using an impact gun....

Sniper_X

using the starter, hold the clutch in and attach a LARGE ratchet handle to the bolt.

Wrap the handle or a pip on the handle in cloth and rest in on the driver side of the car while the socket is on the E-Bolt.

Pull th eEGI fuse from the fusebox under the hood and BUMP the starter a few times.

It SHOULD release.

Otherwise, jack up the car, stabilise it and stik a cro bar in the flywheel from under the car, have a freind pull on a LARGE thick pipe attached to the ratchet and it should break loose!

RETed

Hmmm...are we going to get into a what you're not supposed to do by a helicopter mechanic?

The was answered just a few short weeks ago - a search should turn up the thread.


-Ted

FC Drifter

i just had to pull mine out. it takes a lot of penetrating oil and a LONG breaker bar. i didnt have a breaker bar so i found a metal pipe to fit over the 1/2 in wrench i was using. had my friend pull the wrench up as high as he could pull it then slipped the pipe over the end and pulled it even farther. it snapped loose after that.

TurboMike

you can also snap bolts really easily using this method, be careful..................

RETed

If you managed to snap the front eccentric shaft bolt with this method, I'd give you $20!


-Ted

Sniper_X

Really!!!

I cant see how you would snap it.

Have you removed one?
Its the flange thats holding it, not the threads.

FC Drifter

wait, hold on a sec, why do you have to take off the Eshaft bolt to put on underdrive pulleys? the only thing the Eshaft bolt holds in is the part that all the pullies bolt to. you should just be able to remove the 4 10mm bolts that hold the main pulley assembley on the Eshaft. you shouldnt need to remove that bolt is what im trying to say.

bryant

if you dont take the bolt out, how will you get the pully on??!!!!!!

Silkworm

FC Drifter,

The new pulleys usually replace the hub that you're referring to. I thought the same thing until I bought my underdrive pulley, then I saw why

PaulC

BlaCkPlaGUE

You know, I've been searching for about 15minutes now, and I havent found a single thread telling me how to get the front pully bolt torqued to spec?? How do you brace the e-shaft while the engine is still in the car to tighten it to its 98ft lbs or whatever it was.

thx

ddub

Impact it on at a setting higher than 98 ft/lbs, you'll be fine

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

only problem with over torquing the bolt is after the engine heats up the bolt becomes even tighter, in most cases it is harder to get off than the flywheel nut.

jhammons01

Usually when you torque the E-shaft bolt the motor is out. You could easily take off the dust covers that cover the flywheel....top or bottom users choice and lock the flywheel while you torque away.

ddub

That's very true, but I figure with a good impact gun it wont make it much of a problem.

This is the method I used to put mine on and when I had to take it back off the impact gun had no problem handling it.

BlaCkPlaGUE

So what if you don't have an impact gun?

ddub

Do what jhammons said.

jhammons01

^ the impact may break it off without having to lock the flywheel. The guy that broke mine loose didn't lock either side. Just zip zip zip and both came off faster than you reading this thread.

Putting them on is when you need to lock the flywheel cause you can't use a Impact. You have to use the torque wrench........"click"

ddub

You can impact it on without locking the flywheel no problem, that's what I did. I talked to Kevin Landers about it too in a thread and he does it for all his rebuilds, it's no problem. You just don't want to pound it down with the impact gun for long long periods of time, just stop once its on good.

BlaCkPlaGUE

If you put the car in like 5th gear, would that be the same as locking down the flywheel? I just don't know how exactly to lock it down, even if it were exposed. I don't like the idea of sticking a wrench in there and prying it down or some jacknife mechanic ****.

ziig

iTrader: (1)

i have used both methods. the long ratchet was doen by mistake the first time, forgot it there...lol
the impact works fine, BUT be very careful you dont make the spacer move while working, or else your endplay will be lost.........
best thing to do is to remove inspection plate and use something to prevent flywheel from moving then take really big screwdriver and hold in teeth.....use gun to remove bolt, making sure flywheel does not move back.......change pully and then retorque to spec.......

HAILERS

It's like the man said. Get a half inch drive breakover and 19mm socket. Put the socket on the pulley bolt. Lay the breakover handle against the left fender or the air compressor one. Turn the key to Start for a moment. I said, a moment. I just did this last week but used the plug for the Starter Cut Relay instead of the ignition key. Jumpered a wire from batt pos to the black/white on the relay plug. Oh, EGI fuse out ...just in case.

Now the bolt is loose, even if it were put on with locktite. No need to remove the fan/radiator or anyother thing.

So now we've go someone who want to torque the bolt when he puts it back on. Thought you had us, eh? No problemo. Remove the dust cover over the flywheel. The dust cover under the clutch slave cylinder area. Get you crowbar or equiv out and have some one lock the flywheel in place with it as you torque the bolt. Done.