how do my housings look?
03-07-05, 12:22 AM
#1
how do my housings look?
would you use these housings?
this is the "good" housing. is that flaking acceptable?
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0362.jpg (fullsize pic)
here is the "bad" housing. notice the one scratch above the exhaust port.
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0363.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0372.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0375.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0361.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0367.jpg (fullsize pic)
this is the "good" housing. is that flaking acceptable?
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0362.jpg (fullsize pic)
here is the "bad" housing. notice the one scratch above the exhaust port.
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0363.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0372.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0375.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0361.jpg (fullsize pic)
http://gallery.502streetscene.net/da...39IMG_0367.jpg (fullsize pic)
Last edited by jacobcartmill; 03-07-05 at 12:25 AM.
03-07-05, 12:35 AM
#5
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chrome flaking is common in used rotor housing. As stated in my Rotary Aviation rebuild video, "Chrome flaking is acceptable as long as it is not more then 3/16" at the widest point." It looks like you'll be ok. It also says use a dremel to soften any jagged sections of the receding chrome.
03-07-05, 12:35 AM
#6
The top one is fine...that's a great condition reuseable housing, capable of making 115psi.
The bottom one...with teh damage. I would stay away from using that. Im not saying you couldnt use it, it'd probably ride okay for quite a while. but, even though compression is not made or necessary in that section of the housing, the seals gliding over that odd section right there could cause odd wear patterns on the seal surface, which would then possibly net you a loss of compression on the other side which is still smooth.
Use the first, replace the second.
The bottom one...with teh damage. I would stay away from using that. Im not saying you couldnt use it, it'd probably ride okay for quite a while. but, even though compression is not made or necessary in that section of the housing, the seals gliding over that odd section right there could cause odd wear patterns on the seal surface, which would then possibly net you a loss of compression on the other side which is still smooth.
Use the first, replace the second.
03-07-05, 12:37 AM
#7
BTW, the 3pc stock mazda apex seal causes chrome to flake off like that...even 2pc seals behave this way to a much lesser extent. But, I would rate that top housing a solid 8 out of 10, and I'll use that all day long. Most housings you come across aren't even in that good of condition.
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03-07-05, 12:43 AM
#8
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by luiml73
Can you get away with that by using RA seals?
Edit: just saw the larger pics and does look pretty bad.
Edit: just saw the larger pics and does look pretty bad.
03-07-05, 12:47 AM
#11
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
The top one is fine...that's a great condition reuseable housing, capable of making 115psi.
The bottom one...with teh damage. I would stay away from using that. Im not saying you couldnt use it, it'd probably ride okay for quite a while. but, even though compression is not made or necessary in that section of the housing, the seals gliding over that odd section right there could cause odd wear patterns on the seal surface, which would then possibly net you a loss of compression on the other side which is still smooth.
Use the first, replace the second.
The bottom one...with teh damage. I would stay away from using that. Im not saying you couldnt use it, it'd probably ride okay for quite a while. but, even though compression is not made or necessary in that section of the housing, the seals gliding over that odd section right there could cause odd wear patterns on the seal surface, which would then possibly net you a loss of compression on the other side which is still smooth.
Use the first, replace the second.
i just want you to clarify.......
thanks
both houisings look like ****, thats the bottom line... aytime you have chrome missing the apex seal jumps, prematurly wears unevenly,and eventually prematurly fails, not to mention less power...thats the bottom line
03-07-05, 12:53 AM
#13
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
not all of us can afford brand new housings for every rebuild man
if you cant afford to do it right then dont do it at all!! get a used motor instead..
save your $$$ and build the good motor slowly, the right way...
03-07-05, 12:59 AM
#14
I see here we have one of those types that won't put a used part into an engine. 
I'm telling him from my experience of a few years and a couple hundred engines that the top housing is fine to use, and will make nice compression. Not a perfect 125, but a certainly acceptable 110+, if the rest of the engine is built tight. You don't see used engines floating around making 110+, so if you're saying a junkyard engine is better than a rebuild with that housing, well, you're full of it, because I've been doing it for years.
I don't dispute that if you have a choice between a new or used housing (price range the same) you should choose new...but theyre expensive and hard to get these days, and not everyone needs an engine that cost them more than their car is worth in NADA. IF you're one of the big-***** racer types making 400+ at the wheels, then fine, you better use new everything. IF you're a stock street or lightly modded guy, used stuff is fine.
IT's okay for you to make your point that new is always better, but don't make it out like that's the only option, it certainly isnt. We can agree to disagree about this on a professional level, but I won't sit around and allow misinformation to spread when I know (and prove daily) the contrary.
I'm telling him from my experience of a few years and a couple hundred engines that the top housing is fine to use, and will make nice compression. Not a perfect 125, but a certainly acceptable 110+, if the rest of the engine is built tight. You don't see used engines floating around making 110+, so if you're saying a junkyard engine is better than a rebuild with that housing, well, you're full of it, because I've been doing it for years.
I don't dispute that if you have a choice between a new or used housing (price range the same) you should choose new...but theyre expensive and hard to get these days, and not everyone needs an engine that cost them more than their car is worth in NADA. IF you're one of the big-***** racer types making 400+ at the wheels, then fine, you better use new everything. IF you're a stock street or lightly modded guy, used stuff is fine.
IT's okay for you to make your point that new is always better, but don't make it out like that's the only option, it certainly isnt. We can agree to disagree about this on a professional level, but I won't sit around and allow misinformation to spread when I know (and prove daily) the contrary.
03-07-05, 01:07 AM
#16
No, don't. I've been involved with a transaction with them since october, and $2900 later I have no housings or no refund. UPS lost the shipment that was sent out, and I'm left holding my dick while jhb decides what to do about it. I've filed with paypal and they found in my favor but could not collect a refund so as of now I'm just SOL. Dont get me wrong, they seem to be very nice guys, but they dont have their **** together. Maybe in a few more months theyll have streamlined their operation and can deliver a product in a timely manner.
03-07-05, 01:12 AM
#17
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
I see here we have one of those types that won't put a used part into an engine.
I'm telling him from my experience of a few years and a couple hundred engines that the top housing is fine to use, and will make nice compression. Not a perfect 125, but a certainly acceptable 110+, if the rest of the engine is built tight. You don't see used engines floating around making 110+, so if you're saying a junkyard engine is better than a rebuild with that housing, well, you're full of it, because I've been doing it for years.
I don't dispute that if you have a choice between a new or used housing (price range the same) you should choose new...but theyre expensive and hard to get these days, and not everyone needs an engine that cost them more than their car is worth in NADA. IF you're one of the big-***** racer types making 400+ at the wheels, then fine, you better use new everything. IF you're a stock street or lightly modded guy, used stuff is fine.
IT's okay for you to make your point that new is always better, but don't make it out like that's the only option, it certainly isnt. We can agree to disagree about this on a professional level, but I won't sit around and allow misinformation to spread when I know (and prove daily) the contrary.
I'm telling him from my experience of a few years and a couple hundred engines that the top housing is fine to use, and will make nice compression. Not a perfect 125, but a certainly acceptable 110+, if the rest of the engine is built tight. You don't see used engines floating around making 110+, so if you're saying a junkyard engine is better than a rebuild with that housing, well, you're full of it, because I've been doing it for years.
I don't dispute that if you have a choice between a new or used housing (price range the same) you should choose new...but theyre expensive and hard to get these days, and not everyone needs an engine that cost them more than their car is worth in NADA. IF you're one of the big-***** racer types making 400+ at the wheels, then fine, you better use new everything. IF you're a stock street or lightly modded guy, used stuff is fine.
IT's okay for you to make your point that new is always better, but don't make it out like that's the only option, it certainly isnt. We can agree to disagree about this on a professional level, but I won't sit around and allow misinformation to spread when I know (and prove daily) the contrary.
ive built lots of motors for quite a few years using used parts, but if somebodys housings look like that on dis-assembly i do the right thing ... let them know the housings are out of spec and the best thing to do to purchase new ones.. if they want to use junk fine i'll put it together, but its only guaranteed to run, thats it...
in the future please let people know if there is ANY chrome flaking ,, the housing should be replaced ,,bottom line!!
let them know if they re-use the worn out housings, the motor will run but may not make full compression, and will prematurly wear the apex seals, eventually causing premature enging failure...
mis-information is bad, try not to do it, please!!
03-07-05, 01:31 AM
#18
By your standards 98% of all running rotary engines on the road today are junk...come on.
I'll put up the same challenge I've put up to every other "new housing freak" I've encountered over the last few years. You build an engine with new housings and seals, bone stock, and install into a stock car. Note the cost you would have charged a customer for said engine. I'll build the same engine with used housings and parts, noting the cost I'd charge a customer for said engine. I will then take the difference and put into various mods both on the engine and the car (exhaust, etc) on my car. Then we dyno. We will have spent equivalent amounts of money but I guarantee I'll come out ahead.
Then, afterwards, you can walk around the shop talking about how much compression you have, and I'll walk around talking about how much power I have. See which one people care more about.
Now what?
let them know if they re-use the worn out housings, the motor will run but may not make full compression, and will prematurly wear the apex seals, eventually causing premature enging failure...
Then, afterwards, you can walk around the shop talking about how much compression you have, and I'll walk around talking about how much power I have. See which one people care more about.
Now what?
Last edited by RotaryResurrection; 03-07-05 at 01:34 AM.
03-07-05, 01:39 AM
#21
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Well I'm opening my motor tomorrow that had 95 psi on both rotors. the engine is 4 years old, and it's time for refreshing.
But I'm 99.9% sure that those same housings are going back in. New housings are just way to expensive.
But I'm 99.9% sure that those same housings are going back in. New housings are just way to expensive.
03-07-05, 01:42 AM
#22
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
By your standards 98% of all running rotary engines on the road today are junk...come on.
I'll put up the same challenge I've put up to every other "new housing freak" I've encountered over the last few years. You build an engine with new housings and seals, bone stock, and install into a stock car. Note the cost you would have charged a customer for said engine. I'll build the same engine with used housings and parts, noting the cost I'd charge a customer for said engine. I will then take the difference and put into various mods both on the engine and the car (exhaust, etc) on my car. Then we dyno. We will have spent equivalent amounts of money but I guarantee I'll come out ahead.
Then, afterwards, you can walk around the shop talking about how much compression you have, and I'll walk around talking about how much power I have. See which one people care more about.
Now what?
I'll put up the same challenge I've put up to every other "new housing freak" I've encountered over the last few years. You build an engine with new housings and seals, bone stock, and install into a stock car. Note the cost you would have charged a customer for said engine. I'll build the same engine with used housings and parts, noting the cost I'd charge a customer for said engine. I will then take the difference and put into various mods both on the engine and the car (exhaust, etc) on my car. Then we dyno. We will have spent equivalent amounts of money but I guarantee I'll come out ahead.
Then, afterwards, you can walk around the shop talking about how much compression you have, and I'll walk around talking about how much power I have. See which one people care more about.
Now what?
oh, please!!
ill take your pepsi challenge ANY DAY!!!
but you wont be allowed a handicap because your using junk parts... both cars will have the same mods... the one with the good housings WILL MAKE MORE POWER!!! thats the bottom line!!
your starting to act stupid, you know that right?
same mods....
car with chrome missing= less compression=less power
car with no chrome missing=more compression=more power, used or new housings as long as there is no chrome missing, and no shrinkage from overheating...
03-07-05, 01:44 AM
#25
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by jacobcartmill
i agree. if i was loaded i'd just buy new housings and pump some 125psi and call it a day. i'd also buy new side seals, and mazda apex seals.
but we drive FC's, not FD's so we cant spend all this money
but we drive FC's, not FD's so we cant spend all this money
ohh, ok, the newest rx i have is a 85!LOL