how do i get horn workin again?
#1
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how do i get horn workin again?
i have an 86 non turbo : ( with its fair share of electrical problems does anybody know how to get a horn reworkin need walkthrough info to fixin it pls help greatly appreciated
#4
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mine (86gxl) has the same problem. only works if it has been sitting in the sun in my drive. It gets damn hot inside and my horn and idiot lights work seatbelt chime etc work perfect. once car cools off they all stop working. (my idiot light cluster is an Icemark rebuild and the lights work EXCEPT when I turn key on unless car inside is HOT)
I guess it is CPU related. What needs to be done in this case???
The horn and switch are good is my point
I guess it is CPU related. What needs to be done in this case???
The horn and switch are good is my point
Last edited by 2713ddddavid; 07-30-06 at 07:04 PM.
#5
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by 2713ddddavid
mine (86gxl) has the same problem. only works if it has been sitting in the sun in my drive. It gets damn hot inside and my horn and idiot lights work seatbelt chime etc work perfect. once car cools off they all stop working. (my idiot light cluster is an Icemark rebuild and the lights work EXCEPT when I turn key on unless car inside is HOT)
I guess it is CPU related. What needs to be done in this case???
The horn and switch are good is my point
I guess it is CPU related. What needs to be done in this case???
The horn and switch are good is my point
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by 2713ddddavid
Okay,
Is there a fix/repair for the existing CPU?
If no fix then what about getting a replacment, rebuilt one???
Sorry for hijacking this thread but it appears we share the same problem
Is there a fix/repair for the existing CPU?
If no fix then what about getting a replacment, rebuilt one???
Sorry for hijacking this thread but it appears we share the same problem
To rebuild it yourself, you will want to remove and replace all the solder on the main CPU board where the plug, pluggs into. Then flow new solder in. I also replace the relays if they look burnt, you may or may not need to do this.
Or you can send it in, and I can do it for you.
If you don't want to be without the turn signals and brake lights, just send the main board and leave the two bottom boards plugged in (however that requires dis-assembly of the CPU).
I also do have some already rebuilt ones in stock.
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#11
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by 2713ddddavid
Hey Icemark,
Do I need to remove the Epoxy/Varnish coating on the CPU board?
If yes then what will get the stuff off?
Or can I just work "through" it with out any problem?
Do I need to remove the Epoxy/Varnish coating on the CPU board?
If yes then what will get the stuff off?
Or can I just work "through" it with out any problem?
#12
I have a rotary addiction
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This is my setup. I had the same problem on my 86 GXL.
I just wired up a new circuit for my horns.
I used some spare horns off my 240 since the RX-7 horns were rusted up pretty bad.
Take a wire (with a fuse) directly from the battery to the "screwy" part of the horns. Make sure you mount the horns on plastic and that no metal is in the area or it will short circuit and blow your fuse. If you have no fuse prepare for an electrical fire! Use a fuse! Next you'll need to take off the steering wheel cover and study the wires coming to and from the horn button. The basic idea here is that the steering column is a ground wire. You'll want to connect the OUTPUT wire from the horn button the the prongs on the horns. THEN take a 6-7 foot spare wire and run it from the OUTPUT of the horn button to the prongs on the horns. Should work great.
Sooo...
1. POSITIVE (+) from battery to screw on horns (mount on plastic) (Use a 15-30 amp fuse)
2. remove steering wheel cover
3. connect OUTPUT wire from horn button to the prongs on the horns (route 6-7 feet of 16 guage wire through the fender and engine bay to the horns.
I just wired up a new circuit for my horns.
I used some spare horns off my 240 since the RX-7 horns were rusted up pretty bad.
Take a wire (with a fuse) directly from the battery to the "screwy" part of the horns. Make sure you mount the horns on plastic and that no metal is in the area or it will short circuit and blow your fuse. If you have no fuse prepare for an electrical fire! Use a fuse! Next you'll need to take off the steering wheel cover and study the wires coming to and from the horn button. The basic idea here is that the steering column is a ground wire. You'll want to connect the OUTPUT wire from the horn button the the prongs on the horns. THEN take a 6-7 foot spare wire and run it from the OUTPUT of the horn button to the prongs on the horns. Should work great.
Sooo...
1. POSITIVE (+) from battery to screw on horns (mount on plastic) (Use a 15-30 amp fuse)
2. remove steering wheel cover
3. connect OUTPUT wire from horn button to the prongs on the horns (route 6-7 feet of 16 guage wire through the fender and engine bay to the horns.
#13
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by NCross
This is my setup. I had the same problem on my 86 GXL.
I just wired up a new circuit for my horns.
I used some spare horns off my 240 since the RX-7 horns were rusted up pretty bad.
Take a wire (with a fuse) directly from the battery to the "screwy" part of the horns. Make sure you mount the horns on plastic and that no metal is in the area or it will short circuit and blow your fuse. If you have no fuse prepare for an electrical fire! Use a fuse! Next you'll need to take off the steering wheel cover and study the wires coming to and from the horn button. The basic idea here is that the steering column is a ground wire. You'll want to connect the OUTPUT wire from the horn button the the prongs on the horns. THEN take a 6-7 foot spare wire and run it from the OUTPUT of the horn button to the prongs on the horns. Should work great.
Sooo...
1. POSITIVE (+) from battery to screw on horns (mount on plastic) (Use a 15-30 amp fuse)
2. remove steering wheel cover
3. connect OUTPUT wire from horn button to the prongs on the horns (route 6-7 feet of 16 guage wire through the fender and engine bay to the horns.
I just wired up a new circuit for my horns.
I used some spare horns off my 240 since the RX-7 horns were rusted up pretty bad.
Take a wire (with a fuse) directly from the battery to the "screwy" part of the horns. Make sure you mount the horns on plastic and that no metal is in the area or it will short circuit and blow your fuse. If you have no fuse prepare for an electrical fire! Use a fuse! Next you'll need to take off the steering wheel cover and study the wires coming to and from the horn button. The basic idea here is that the steering column is a ground wire. You'll want to connect the OUTPUT wire from the horn button the the prongs on the horns. THEN take a 6-7 foot spare wire and run it from the OUTPUT of the horn button to the prongs on the horns. Should work great.
Sooo...
1. POSITIVE (+) from battery to screw on horns (mount on plastic) (Use a 15-30 amp fuse)
2. remove steering wheel cover
3. connect OUTPUT wire from horn button to the prongs on the horns (route 6-7 feet of 16 guage wire through the fender and engine bay to the horns.
The factory switch in the steering column is rated for only 5 amps maximum. You must use a relay (just like the CPU does).
Wiring the horn direct to the horn switch, is just asking to burn the horn switch out. If you lay on the horn for anything but a brief moment you will burn out the switch or contacts in the steering column!
If you wanted to do some sort of NON CPU useage, you need at very least a relay which would wire as follows:
Horn wire from steering column to 85 of the relay
Fused 12 volts battery to 86 and 87 of the relay
30 of the relay to the Horn wire coming out of the CPU (you don't want to run extra wires).
But fixing the CPU is the best bet.
#14
I have a rotary addiction
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It's better then no horn at all I guess. I haven't had any problems with it so far. BTW I have an s5 steering wheel if that makes any difference. Is there some sort of "resistor" I can get to reduce the current to 5-10 amps? It doesn't spark when you touch the contacts together so I figured it was fine.
I just went ahead and did this to mine because the whole system was no good. Everything was rusted. The relays were blown. I think the CPU may be damaged as well because the left turn signal blinks rapidly and I've checked all the bulbs. It blinks even faster when you flip the lights on.
I just went ahead and did this to mine because the whole system was no good. Everything was rusted. The relays were blown. I think the CPU may be damaged as well because the left turn signal blinks rapidly and I've checked all the bulbs. It blinks even faster when you flip the lights on.
#15
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by NCross
It's better then no horn at all I guess.
I haven't had any problems with it so far. BTW I have an s5 steering wheel if that makes any difference.
Is there some sort of "resistor" I can get to reduce the current to 5-10 amps?
It doesn't spark when you touch the contacts together so I figured it was fine.
I just went ahead and did this to mine because the whole system was no good. Everything was rusted. The relays were blown. I think the CPU may be damaged as well because the left turn signal blinks rapidly and I've checked all the bulbs. It blinks even faster when you flip the lights on.
You never want to just wire past things like you did. Almost none of the switches on the FC are capable of driving that much load. Always use a relay or the correct part.
#16
I have a rotary addiction
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I didn't want to mess with hunting down an entire CPU and electrical system so I rigged it up the old fashioned way. I didn't want to spend any money on something I was going to use once every couple months for 2 seconds. I know there's a right way to do it and that my way is a last resort method but I just don't want to mess with it anymore. Basically my method works but it's not the best way to do it obviously. It would lighten the load a bit to use just one horn too I'm sure.
#18
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I had the same issue (intermittent horn)
As previously mentioned, resoldering the CPU usually does the trick, and may fix a few other things.
It is outlined in the page below. Need a ratchet w/ 10mm socket with extension, a pair of needle-nose pliars, patience, a small screwdriver and a soldering iron.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/faq/index.shtml
I had fixed my horn this way in order to pass safety inspection.
when I took my CPU out and looked at the back on the circuit board, almost all of the large solder joints were cracked. Just heated up my iron and resoldered them.
BEWARE OLD SOLDER SMELLS FUNNY. DO NOT BREATHE DEEP.
Reversed the removal instructions... then
BEEP BEEP!!!
It is outlined in the page below. Need a ratchet w/ 10mm socket with extension, a pair of needle-nose pliars, patience, a small screwdriver and a soldering iron.
http://www.teamfc3s.org/faq/index.shtml
I had fixed my horn this way in order to pass safety inspection.
when I took my CPU out and looked at the back on the circuit board, almost all of the large solder joints were cracked. Just heated up my iron and resoldered them.
BEWARE OLD SOLDER SMELLS FUNNY. DO NOT BREATHE DEEP.
Reversed the removal instructions... then
BEEP BEEP!!!
#19
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Originally Posted by NCross
I didn't want to mess with hunting down an entire CPU and electrical system so I rigged it up the old fashioned way.
People come here looking for help on fixing their cars, not wrecking them. Please keep advice like this to yourself.
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