it currently has air intake and greddy exhaust. still want it to function as a daily driver but have the most hp possible without a turbo on it.

 

streetport
custom intake manifold
independent throttle bodies
AFC or standalone EMS and tune
higher comp rotors

all cost a good amount of money

 

Not to poop on your idea but I would do the suspension and tires first to take advantage of what you have. Learn the car and then see if you want/need more HP.

 

get the rb header. they say it giveslike 12 hp. and like 30-40 if you have their full exhaust system

 

Take a look at the Archived topic "how to make a beefy n/a".

But the long and short of it is that externally, there's little you can do past intake (with cold air box) and exhaust.

If you have the money and talent, you can install and tune a full standalone.

After that it's pulling the engine apart to port it.

Edit...After the basic intake and full exhaust, the best thing to do is spend money on the suspension and a good set of wheels and tires. Will the car be faster in a straight line? No. But it will sure feel that way and will be much faster around the corners.

 

When you say higher compression rotors do you mean S5 rotors or custom ones? I never saw any custom rotors exept for th RB lightweight ones and they're just machined from stock.

 

the only thing higher than s5's are milled rx-8 rotors.

from a dollar to performance aspect, they're not worth it.

 

A nitrous kit is less than most cat backs, and can easily and safely add 50 RWHP. Before you even consider this, your car must be up to spec. Fix what's broken, replace what's worn, and test the compression. Then consider the bottle. again. I know I'll get flamed, but a turbo kit is way more than $500 and no where as easy to install.

 

30-40 hp if you have a turboII. NA you will be lucky to get the 12-15 claimed without porting.



I agree with what Greg said (TurboII).


BC

 

You can go the cheating way and get nos.

 

hey i was looking on rb and it said it has a header for a na but i was looking for a t2 header

 

nothing much, i guess, kinda lighted your car a little bit that would help.

 

Funny, I never had a problem with my stock suspension and winter tires with the power I have.

1. Cold Air Box and Cone Filter or Pipe the filter out of the engine bay.

2. Open up the exhaust system by replacing the mufflers and going with a highflow cat or no cat. Removing the mufflers on my car made a huge difference above 4000 rpm.

If you want to keep emmisions, you can swap to a S5 ACV so you can use the air pump to operate the AUX and VDI ports. You would need 2 rpm switches and 2 spare 3 way electronic solenoids. You could also just go with an electric lumbar air pump.

3. Swap on the S5 Intake manifold. This is the best swap for a S4 N/A. Will extend your power band about another 1000rpm and will gain you another 10+ proven HP above 5000 rpm.

4. SAFC, Rteck or Standalone.



Less Expensive idea can be helpfull too

 

I would do the suspension and tires, then a custom air intake pipe with cone filter, I got the racing beat road race true dual exhaust.. get a safc and tune out some fuel since n/a run very rich..

seafoam yoru engine and get all the carbon out

do a full tune up

then u can get into bigger more expensive stuff

engine port
itb or custom intake
carb
nos (which is not cheating)

 

get a turbo

 

+1 with a large bridgeport

 

"Headers" are for NA'a where as a "downpipe" if for the Turbo models.

Look for a downpipe for you TII. I have the RB one and like it alot, Corksport, Apexi and tanabe also make them for our cars.

 

I just bought an ebay test pipe, ebay muffler, and installed an autozone cone filter/adapter combo. My car is na (obviosly). Will the test pipe hurt anything being on the car? My buddy has a na FB with a strait pipe, and he said 7s love free flowing air.

What's yall's take?

 

You don't want a large bridge port on an n/a that is going to be street driven. Idle will have to be over 1000 and you will have no low rpm power.

It may be better to bridge the AUX ports instead.

 

FYI, RB sells their pre-cat replacement pipe for the NA, which they used to term as their "NA Downpipe"

FYI, RB sells their pre-cat replacement pipe for the NA, which they used to term as their "NA Downpipe"

We're one of the few cars to have NA factory exhaust manifolds as opposed to factory headers.

 

get a turbo, save money to do so

 

A LOT of people here seem to have missed the fact that this is to be a daily driver. For most people, this means that things like bridgeports (and don't even consider wasting time on an aux bridgeport in an NA application), carbs, custom intakes and such are out of the question.

Aside from going into the engine, the best bet is to get a good exhaust, build a cold air intake, give the car a full tune up, and then work on the suspension and tires.

If the engine is being pulled apart, then street port it.

If the original poster is capable of wiring and tuning it, then a full standalone will make a huge difference in performance, reliability and mileage.

 

I noticed that too. Many suggested the extreme.

Care to explain? The aux port and bridge would be closed during low rpms.

 

apparently, it isn't so you still get a brap and a high idle.

 

It's not going to make very much power. Totally screwes up the flow in the stock intake. I don't think any of the dynos posted have ever shown that it makes more power then a streetport.

If you are going to bridge, do a half or full bridge.