how to adjust the CAS
#1
Rotary's "R" Us
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Rosemount, MN
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
how to adjust the CAS
well today i found that there is no nut that tightens down the stud to the CAS. i assume the sensor has moved around a bit. my question is where is the exact spot or how am i supposed to adjust the CAS correctly?
i've been having problems starting up the car. there will be times when i turn the ignition over and the car doesnt crank, or other times where it wont crank until a couple of seconds after the key has been turned on and kept in that position. then lastly there are times where i lose complete electrical power when trying to crank her up. <---- is this even a symptom of CAS out of place?
i've been having problems starting up the car. there will be times when i turn the ignition over and the car doesnt crank, or other times where it wont crank until a couple of seconds after the key has been turned on and kept in that position. then lastly there are times where i lose complete electrical power when trying to crank her up. <---- is this even a symptom of CAS out of place?
#2
Trunk Ornament
iTrader: (11)
If it's not cranking over, it's either the ignition switch, battery terminals, starter, or associated wiring. Nothing to do with the CAS.
In order to adjust the CAS, you need to use a timing light. Check the FSM found at www.rx7world.com under the "tech connect" section. There's a procedure that includes warming the car up, jumpering the initial set coupler, adjusting idle speed, etc.
Or do an advanced titles-only search for "timing". You'll find alot.
In order to adjust the CAS, you need to use a timing light. Check the FSM found at www.rx7world.com under the "tech connect" section. There's a procedure that includes warming the car up, jumpering the initial set coupler, adjusting idle speed, etc.
Or do an advanced titles-only search for "timing". You'll find alot.
#3
Retired Moderator, RIP
iTrader: (142)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 0
Received 131 Likes
on
114 Posts
It sounds like a Wiring issue to the Starter.
Check the connections at the battery,and also at the engine(the top starter bolt is usually the Ground point for the Wiring harness),and the Positive Lead on the Starter.
Check the solenoid wire.it is a spade terminal that can wiggle loose and get Crudded up over time.
Check the connections at the battery,and also at the engine(the top starter bolt is usually the Ground point for the Wiring harness),and the Positive Lead on the Starter.
Check the solenoid wire.it is a spade terminal that can wiggle loose and get Crudded up over time.
#5
HAILERS
Join Date: May 2001
Location: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes
on
19 Posts
well today i found that there is no nut that tightens down the stud to the CAS. i assume the sensor has moved around a bit. my question is where is the exact spot or how am i supposed to adjust the CAS correctly?
i've been having problems starting up the car. there will be times when i turn the ignition over and the car doesnt crank, or other times where it wont crank until a couple of seconds after the key has been turned on and kept in that position. then lastly there are times where i lose complete electrical power when trying to crank her up. <---- is this even a symptom of CAS out of place?
i've been having problems starting up the car. there will be times when i turn the ignition over and the car doesnt crank, or other times where it wont crank until a couple of seconds after the key has been turned on and kept in that position. then lastly there are times where i lose complete electrical power when trying to crank her up. <---- is this even a symptom of CAS out of place?
The next time you lose all power to the car, turn the headlights on. IF they don't rise and light up, then you have a battery cable problem. Either positive or negative one. A small posibility of the battery having internal problems. Not very likely, but a possibility.
If you lose power as you say, and HAVE headlights that work, then you've lost power to the ignition switch (the connector with the black wire) or if not that, then the igniton switch isn't passing the power from the black wire to the IG1 and IG2 interior busses.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LongDuck
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
12
10-07-15 08:12 PM
rotor_veux
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
3
09-28-15 09:25 PM