Hot start / hot idle problems
11-25-07, 10:53 AM
#1
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Oakville Ontario
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Hot start / hot idle problems
Hey everyone, been lurking for a bit but I just bought my first recently. I'm now the proud new owner of an 89 FC (stock everything GTU)
The car has been just sitting in a garage for ten years... it only has 66 000km (41 000miles) on it! The guy who sold it to me (not the owner) owns a garage and put a *lot* of time into it to get ready for the street (i first inquired into it about a month ago, patience is key). New tires, all new fluids, replaced TPS, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced ignition coils, new ignition wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the grounds. Some parts were scavenged (coils), others he had shipped in but I'm not sure from where or how "new" they are... All of this work was included with the price of the car
I was there for a compression test as well... he did it strangely when the car was still cold: took out *all* the plugs and didn't stop the fuel from entering the engine. the numbers came out low, i think around 60s in the front and 50s on the rear. After warming it up he did it correctly (read: following instructions from this site) by only removing the lower plug and stopping the fuel. I got 90s all around... this is good, right?
So Friday I picked it up from Hamilton (Ontario) and drove it back to Toronto (about an hours drive). Everything was ok: Idle was around 800, driving in Hamilton went well, drove fast on the highway. I was pretty happy!
After all that highway driving I hit Toronto stop-and-go and the car didn't want to idle anymore. It was stalling constantly! I got it home by using my foot to keep the revs up (not how I imagined learning how to heel-toe). It hovered around 2000rpm with the gentlest touch on the gas. Less than that and the needle just dropped, the car started shuddering at the 250rpm idle, then it would stall. The temp gauge stayed just a shade north of halfway.
My friend had the exact same problem (86 corolla gts) which was solved with a new temp sensor... should i try just pulling mine out?
I searched around the forum, but don't really know what to look for... I found a thread that suggested to check vacuum hoses...
Another said poor compression leads to this, but i really hope my first drive didn't do that... i don't have a tester to check.
Maybe I just need to adjust the TPS?
RotaMan99 stated that removing the FPR solenoid (no idea what this means.... yet) fixed his hotstart, stalling and idling problems.
Some other issues i'm hoping to solve after I get the car idle, but whose symptoms might be related:
Sometimes when idling, the tach would pulse about 500rpm at a steady rate... I've read that this is an airflow problem, probably sensor related
And lastly the car doesn't like accelerating unless its revving really high, like 4000+. She goes, but y'know how people recommend to shift at 3k to get the best mileage? ya, she drinks gas like nobodys business. When driving on the highway, 5th gear revs too low to maintain cruising speed (3k) so i'm driving eveywhere in 4th (4.5k)
And I discovered my BAC doesnt work: turning on the rear defroster makes my rpm's drop.
She's damned pretty though!
My copy of the Haynes is finally here, do you guys suggest getting the FSM too, or are the online copies good enough?
I'm setting the TPS using the 2 LED 3 spade connector method this afternoon, and hopefully checking compression again (my friend has a tester).
The car has been just sitting in a garage for ten years... it only has 66 000km (41 000miles) on it! The guy who sold it to me (not the owner) owns a garage and put a *lot* of time into it to get ready for the street (i first inquired into it about a month ago, patience is key). New tires, all new fluids, replaced TPS, replaced fuel pressure regulator, replaced ignition coils, new ignition wires, new spark plugs, cleaned the grounds. Some parts were scavenged (coils), others he had shipped in but I'm not sure from where or how "new" they are... All of this work was included with the price of the car
I was there for a compression test as well... he did it strangely when the car was still cold: took out *all* the plugs and didn't stop the fuel from entering the engine. the numbers came out low, i think around 60s in the front and 50s on the rear. After warming it up he did it correctly (read: following instructions from this site) by only removing the lower plug and stopping the fuel. I got 90s all around... this is good, right?
So Friday I picked it up from Hamilton (Ontario) and drove it back to Toronto (about an hours drive). Everything was ok: Idle was around 800, driving in Hamilton went well, drove fast on the highway. I was pretty happy!
After all that highway driving I hit Toronto stop-and-go and the car didn't want to idle anymore. It was stalling constantly! I got it home by using my foot to keep the revs up (not how I imagined learning how to heel-toe). It hovered around 2000rpm with the gentlest touch on the gas. Less than that and the needle just dropped, the car started shuddering at the 250rpm idle, then it would stall. The temp gauge stayed just a shade north of halfway.
My friend had the exact same problem (86 corolla gts) which was solved with a new temp sensor... should i try just pulling mine out?
I searched around the forum, but don't really know what to look for... I found a thread that suggested to check vacuum hoses...
Another said poor compression leads to this, but i really hope my first drive didn't do that... i don't have a tester to check.
Maybe I just need to adjust the TPS?
RotaMan99 stated that removing the FPR solenoid (no idea what this means.... yet) fixed his hotstart, stalling and idling problems.
Some other issues i'm hoping to solve after I get the car idle, but whose symptoms might be related:
Sometimes when idling, the tach would pulse about 500rpm at a steady rate... I've read that this is an airflow problem, probably sensor related
And lastly the car doesn't like accelerating unless its revving really high, like 4000+. She goes, but y'know how people recommend to shift at 3k to get the best mileage? ya, she drinks gas like nobodys business. When driving on the highway, 5th gear revs too low to maintain cruising speed (3k) so i'm driving eveywhere in 4th (4.5k)
And I discovered my BAC doesnt work: turning on the rear defroster makes my rpm's drop.
She's damned pretty though!
My copy of the Haynes is finally here, do you guys suggest getting the FSM too, or are the online copies good enough?
I'm setting the TPS using the 2 LED 3 spade connector method this afternoon, and hopefully checking compression again (my friend has a tester).
11-25-07, 11:08 AM
#2
I would check the BAC valve to see if it is working properly, wiat you said it didn't...... fix it! Then I would check the water thermosensor connector, the sensor rarely goes out, but sometimes the connector will get trashed over time. I replaced mine and it got rid of hot start issues and helped get rid of stalling problems I had too.
02-04-09, 10:13 AM
#4
Senior Member
I ve been reading the forum but cant find any thread with sollution for this problem.
Has anyone solved this annoying hot idle issue?
My car is a s5 fc turbo ii convertible. The mods are full 3" turbo back, TID intake, FMIC, upgraded sard fuel pump and hks fcon piggy ECU.
Is it possible to blame the air sensor that is located inside the AFM?
Has anyone solved this annoying hot idle issue?
My car is a s5 fc turbo ii convertible. The mods are full 3" turbo back, TID intake, FMIC, upgraded sard fuel pump and hks fcon piggy ECU.
Is it possible to blame the air sensor that is located inside the AFM?
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