Im wondering if there is anybody that made there own checklight.
I know its just two leds with wire comming out, but I seem to cant find the diagram for the wiring......

Unless there is some other way to test and adjust the tps.

 

The way I understood it was this. Two red wires into one spade connector, and then each black wire has a spade connector. For some reason this method wasn't working for me, it is possible i was trying to test the wrong connector. Other method is with a DMM.

 

You can purchase a DMM from Harbor Freight for dirt cheap. It's possibly the best tool for diagnostics you can buy.

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

It shows how to build one half way down the page.

There's a picture of a half *** built one by me on this thread. http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread...light=tps+LEDs

The engine MUST be fully HOT before using one. Think water thermowax as to why. Although there are ways around that.

http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...3&d=1156877133

 

I ended up buying one from Chris Hanson.

Then I bought a Haltech?

 

I need something like that

Is the dcc light the same one for adjusting the TPS?

 

..

 

That light assy shown in Your picture is the same as the one shown in the examples I gave you. You can BUY one of those from MAZDATRIX if you want. Compare that price with the cost of two LED'S as shown in the aritcle I attaced earlier.

Look at the halfass example in my picure attached above. I could have put shrink tubing around it and made it look real purty. But it would NOT work a bit better.

All that is happening when you set the TPS using the LEDS/Tester lights, is observing when the ECU puts a GROUND on the two wires that are NOT black/white on that TPS check connector. When the ECU sees an output of approx one volt dc FROM the TPS TO the ECU, then the ECU puts a gnd on those other two wires on that TPS light assy. It's putting a gnd on the other two wires that makes the LED's light up. Again the gnd comes from the ECU to the check connector.

The single black/white wire on the TPS check connector is 12vdc batt power anytime the key is to ON. It's there all the time in other words. Turn the tps adjusting screw where it outputs approx one volt dc TO the ECU, and the ECU in turn outputs a gnd to one of those other two wires.

Those other two wires on the TPS check connector also are spliced to the Relief solenoid and the switching solenoid. BLUE and GREY solenoid connectors respectively.

That should have muddied the water. Yeah.

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

There. Only thirty three bucks. Hey. They have a boat and car payment to make. Need your dough.

LED'S at radio shack cost? Three bucks???????

Part number 49-F018-0010

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

they might have payments to make but why spend 30 bux when 3 bux is all you really NEED?

the checker in this link will work as a TPS checker too

 

It can also be used to detemine if the engine is in CLOSED LOOP when driving.

It can also be used to SEE just when the Relief and Switching solenoids open/shut while driving or at rest.

You can even use one to see when the seconday injectors come on line. Lotta stuff to be gained.

 

The straight answer is YES.

 

plenty of useful info can be found by using the search feature: "TPS led light" 2 pages of threads and all the info you need.

 

Thanks for all the info.

I just found out that my trailing coils are not firing.....
Tomorrow will be diagnostic work then....

I hooked up a timing gun and saw that my primary coils are firing, but when I went to hook it on the trailings, they werent firing. I even pulled of both of the trailing wires off from the plugs and the engine still sound the same, with no rev changes.
I tested the coils and the trailings falls within specs. T1-.08 ohms, T2-.07 ohms.

Must be the wiring, or its stuck in fail safe mode....

 

get a male 3-way connector from junkyard, and wire 2 bulbs on it.. negatives together to the negative, and positeves into each remainding wire... it works.. i got one

 

If the tachometer works, then it's a given the trail coils are working. The tach reads off the trail coil assy.

 

Sorry to revive.
HAILERS, if you've seen my recent thread about my 6500 rpm hesitation in my S5 NA, you'll have a better idea of my suspicion.

I remember hearing somewhere that the trailing coils run the tach, and I do fight sometimes with having no tach and then it will magically stop arcing and come on randomly. That, a TPS code 18 and 71, the front secondary injector code may be a combination.

I do have a timing light to check, but could this be my problem?

 

He doesn't post here any more but Rotary Evolution does.

 

Hmm. I may just have to ask him in my thread. I think I have a crazy combination of things going awry.

 

If you have a volt meter you don't need the checker light.

 

Just use 2 mm, one in each side.