2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Holy crap i built my rotary and it works 2

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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 11:39 PM
  #1  
Rx7MPGUY84's Avatar
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From: New Port Richey, FL
Talking Holy crap i built my rotary and it works 2

Yeah im 20. started when i was like 19. the motor blew about a year ago,since then ive been saving up for parts and what not for the rebuild, Rebuild was complete actually a couple months ago, but it took me a while to put good seals for like exterior stuff. After 2 hours of trying to get it unflooded, and timing set to 0, it finally started, Wow was it nice to hear that baby purr again, sounds better than it did when i first started it when it was bought about 3k miles ago.

It made it to fl, then i drove it around and it blew 2 apex seals in the rear, Had to replace rear housing and rotor, besides that, everything else seemed to be in tip top shape, I checked the irons for any warping, and everything seemd good. Put it all together, and what do u know, it starts.

Now the problem im having, I have a radiator from a s5, wich has the radiator cap on it, plus the s4 thermostat top thingy with a radiator cap. The one on the radiator is a free flow, no spring just open, the one on the thermostat housing is a sprung pressure one. Its leaking coolant through the over fill, the over fill is connected to the one on the radiator, keeping up with me? ne who, Yeah its leaking out, i assume its becuase its a free flow. Besides that and timing is a couple degrees off, it seems to run great. no bad issues, i havent had it running long enough for the cloud of smoke to go away, but soon enough. ill get that done when i get the radiator over fill problem outa the way. wish me luck. god bless the rotary
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 11:43 PM
  #2  
Makenzie71's Avatar
...94% correct.
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From: High Texas
get a propper cap. it's not sealing.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 11:47 PM
  #3  
Rx7MPGUY84's Avatar
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idk why this would start now, i had the cap on like this for about 3k miles, and it starts to do it now, ill replace it, just to make sure though. but kinda weird i think. but eh, what can ya do.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 11:48 PM
  #4  
iceblue's Avatar
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From: Scotland, USA
If I followed you correctly.

First off the cap on the RAD needs to be a 13psi spring tension cap. The cap on the pump elbow needs to be a normal cap no release or say 16psi will be fine.

The system runs under pressure when the pressure is exceeded the cap pops and flows coolant into the puke tank. If you have a 0 pressure cap on the RAD every time it starts to pressurize it pores coolant into the puke tank.
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