When it the buzzer supposed to come on in a S5 N/A? I have always heard everyone say around 7800RPMs but mine waits until 8200 (YES, I am still making power up there with my mods) !

Is mine misadjusted or is my tach off? Is there a way to adjust it back to 7800 or what?

TIA for replies .

 

yeah what's up with the 7800rpm "imposed" redline.

 

It goes off 200rpm before redline (well it's supposed to) because in lower gears by the time you've reacted to the buzzer you're already at redline.

Dre, I'm not sure exactly how the buzzer is triggered, but it could be independant of the actual needle driver. It may be that your tach reads a little high, but the buzzer is acurate. You'd need to get an instrument repairer to have a look at it.

 

Really? So I should just shift at the buzzer then?

 

I never shift at the buzzer when racing... maybe 1000 RPM later.

(that doesn't mean YOU should do that...)

Brad

 

hehe... I would just like to know if the rev buzzer is independant of the tachometer and which one is more accurate.

If the buzzer is accurate at 7800 RPMs that means I coulda been going faster this whole time!!

 

When you hit redline on the TII, the clutch goes into "limp mode" until the revs shoot down. I've never had that happen on the convertible though.

 

This may sound pretty dumb but me and a friend were discussing when our TII's redline. I know that on the tachometer the redline starts at 7000. Yet reading this thread leads me to believe the redline is higher. So, simply put, what is the stock redline at? Thanks.

 

C'mon someone has to know! PLEAAASE.

I am going through the FSM looking for the rev buzzer and tach circuits.

I gotta know which is more accurate. I'd hate to think that i've been shifting like 500 RPMs too early at races!

 

What the hell are you talking about?

 

The Series 5 NA's had a 8000rpm redline, and some of the posts above were referring to that. All other FC's were 7000rpm, and the buzzer is supposed to come on 200rpm before redline in all models.

 

I don't know dre...but i do know that one way to find out if your tack is off, is by going out and buying a shift light, with some 8k rpms shift pills. Thats what i did. Mine is about 300 rpms off or so, way up top. It reads higher than the motor is actually spinning. The dyno verified it too. CJ

 

Do it IS safe to shift at the buzzer then? (the buzzer is dead on 7800 RPMS?)

 

Ok my buzzer comes on at about 7000 rpms. I usually shift then. Are you saying that I could rev it to 7800 or 7500 safely every time I race? I know I sound stupid, but I'm always afraid of the red zone. Don't want the engine to blow or anything catastrophic like that.

 

No, your redline is 7000rpm, so stick to it. Only the S5 NA's have the 8000rpm redline.

 

Does ANYONE know if the buzzer is right on 200 RPMs before redline?

 

It is supposed to, but you will have to get yours checked. You can't rely on what everyone elses does.

 

Damn... and how would I go about doing that?

 

<-- disables annoying buzzer and shift up light

 

A mechanic with a diagnostic tach or an instrument repairer.

 

rotaries love the redline, right?

 

Yes you can adjust it. I read an article about adjusting it after a V-8 install (no I am not doing that). It looked pretty easy (the tach adjustment).
some where on this site I think

http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/

You will still need to find a more accurate rpm reading device to set it too.

 

I love going past redline. It just keeps going faster (ever since I fixed my 6 ports).
My buzzer goes off at 6800, and is nice to have so I don't have to look down.
There is a plug on the leading coil pack you can plug a tach into. Compare that reading with you analog tach. Seems to me the buzzer would be tied into the ECU.

 

so umm is it a good thing that ma buzzer doesnt work haha trust me i have tried past the 8k and shifted around 8500 and still no buzzer

 

That grannyspeedshop site had nothing on setting the overrev buzzer...

But their tach re-cal section said there was a contact on the tach that goes to the overrev buzzer... almost as if they work together and not idependantly