HKS F-Con // information
12-07-05, 07:25 PM
#1
HKS F-Con // information
Contradictory to popular beliefs.
The F-Con does not touch the AFM wire at all. The AFM wire is located on the middle plug, and is untouched. Infact, the whole middle plug is untouched.
The Right plug is used for IGN Hot, and RPM signal.
The Left plug is used for injectors, CAS signal, and Ground.
The Above is true for the S5 model. I will be checking the S4 model out and will update on that as time allows.
The F-Con works by reading the injector pulses and directly modifying them, without touching the AFM at all. This allows YOU to install a S-AFC or equilvent without worrying about conflicts.
The thing I found interesting is that the CAS signals are not only "tapped", they actually go into the INPUT of the F-Con, and the signals are then sent back to the ECU at the OUTPUT.
Like women, this is a mystery that will forever remain un-understood.
Unlike women, it is adjustable. Removing the top cover will reveal a rotary switch, number 0 to 9. 0 being stock, and 9 being rich.
Off the top of my head:
E101, E190, and E1102 are chips for HKS T04E turbo kit + HKS FMIC. The turbo is a 57 trim T04E.
D101, E149 are chips for stock setup.
Archieve for future F-Con information requests?
The F-Con does not touch the AFM wire at all. The AFM wire is located on the middle plug, and is untouched. Infact, the whole middle plug is untouched.
The Right plug is used for IGN Hot, and RPM signal.
The Left plug is used for injectors, CAS signal, and Ground.
The Above is true for the S5 model. I will be checking the S4 model out and will update on that as time allows.
The F-Con works by reading the injector pulses and directly modifying them, without touching the AFM at all. This allows YOU to install a S-AFC or equilvent without worrying about conflicts.
The thing I found interesting is that the CAS signals are not only "tapped", they actually go into the INPUT of the F-Con, and the signals are then sent back to the ECU at the OUTPUT.
Like women, this is a mystery that will forever remain un-understood.
Unlike women, it is adjustable. Removing the top cover will reveal a rotary switch, number 0 to 9. 0 being stock, and 9 being rich.
Off the top of my head:
E101, E190, and E1102 are chips for HKS T04E turbo kit + HKS FMIC. The turbo is a 57 trim T04E.
D101, E149 are chips for stock setup.
Archieve for future F-Con information requests?
Last edited by slpin; 12-07-05 at 07:28 PM.
12-07-05, 10:00 PM
#3
That's what she said...
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Socal
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No, It uses the cars stock boost pressure sensor and it's own. It's just "T"ed on. So you will need to run the afm/ams ..I have used F-CONS on two of my TII's. Cant complain they do there job. I was actually satisfied with it.
12-08-05, 01:47 AM
#6
ok i poped the cover on my FCON and on the chip it says:L
HKS( then japanese writing)
E1-(more japanese)FC
would this mean this was for the t4 setup??
the "adjustable thing" was pointing at zero, not sure if its MAXED OUT or at zero.... all i know is some of the t2 i tried this on wouldnt want to idle very well at all with it.
HKS( then japanese writing)
E1-(more japanese)FC
would this mean this was for the t4 setup??
the "adjustable thing" was pointing at zero, not sure if its MAXED OUT or at zero.... all i know is some of the t2 i tried this on wouldnt want to idle very well at all with it.
Trending Topics
12-08-05, 12:41 PM
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't know what you mean by 0 to 9.0 being stock and 9 being rich. That pot does change the injector pulsewidth through its range. Below are three dyno curves one with the stock F-CON pot setting (somewhere between 4 to 7) at 6 psi and the other two with a setting of 0 (6 & 10 psi). The bumps and the high rpm trend are due to the GCC settings, but the general trend between 4.5 and 6k rpms at 6 psi was due to the adjustment of the pot, as I made only minor changes to the GCC.
I was running 550cc primary and 720cc secondarys at stock fuel pressures. I actually had to turn up the boost to get the A/F ratios out of the 11 range with the F-CON on 0, and the GCC set to max negative (I'm not a believer that flooding your engine with fuel equates to longevity, though I did add fuel with the GCC to get the top end back to the 12s). When originally installed the FCON made the car nearly undrivable with the stock pot setting, and the GCC at 0%.
Tuning wise, I have found that the GCC strongly prefers linear settings with small slopes. On my setup any abrupt changes in the settings, like going from 5% negative at one rpm point to 5% positive (or vice versa) at the next would cause a major hesitation. To that end I would not recommend running 550/720 as the flow difference is too great. I think 680 all around, or 680/720 would provide the best curve.
I should note that I have the original F-CON from 1987, it shipped with the D49 chip, and another that had better idle characteristics (don't remember the #). My F-CON will not run on the newer E190 and E149 chips. I have tried both and the car simply wont start with those chips installed (pulse width looked normal on the IPM so I suspect it is ignition related).
I was running 550cc primary and 720cc secondarys at stock fuel pressures. I actually had to turn up the boost to get the A/F ratios out of the 11 range with the F-CON on 0, and the GCC set to max negative (I'm not a believer that flooding your engine with fuel equates to longevity, though I did add fuel with the GCC to get the top end back to the 12s). When originally installed the FCON made the car nearly undrivable with the stock pot setting, and the GCC at 0%.
Tuning wise, I have found that the GCC strongly prefers linear settings with small slopes. On my setup any abrupt changes in the settings, like going from 5% negative at one rpm point to 5% positive (or vice versa) at the next would cause a major hesitation. To that end I would not recommend running 550/720 as the flow difference is too great. I think 680 all around, or 680/720 would provide the best curve.
I should note that I have the original F-CON from 1987, it shipped with the D49 chip, and another that had better idle characteristics (don't remember the #). My F-CON will not run on the newer E190 and E149 chips. I have tried both and the car simply wont start with those chips installed (pulse width looked normal on the IPM so I suspect it is ignition related).
12-08-05, 01:13 PM
#12
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: May 2004
Location: San Antonio
Posts: 778
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so wiat at 10psi on stock turbo turbo 2 u reached 301 hp? with an F-con and tuning? explain ur setup a little more i was about to get an F-con for 250bucks...im wondering what can i do with my STOCK turbo and this F-con....
12-08-05, 02:18 PM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Las Cruces, NM
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My car is defiantly not stock, but it is all bolt on. On those runs I was running a HKS intake, HKS FMIC, and HKS cat-back, a 3in dp (turbo to cat), hollowed out main-cat, EVC, hybrid s4 turbo with H3 trim compressor (there was no boost creep on any of the runs), with a totally stock S5 block (& no tricks like ice or water on the IC).
I attribute my numbers to a well designed IC, properly sized compressor, and a reasonably freeflowing exhaust. Note that on my set-up the F-CON is essentially off, the only adjustments being made are from the GCC (through the FCON), so from my experience the FCON is sort of pointless. I think larger injectors with a SAFC (if they work) is likely a better combo, as the GCC is a pain in the butt.
If you have the exhaust, I would spend the $250 on a H3 trim compressor, housing, dynamic seal and back plate (it's not hard to your self). When the $ were available I would go to larger injectors with a SAFC and then turn up the boost a bit.
I attribute my numbers to a well designed IC, properly sized compressor, and a reasonably freeflowing exhaust. Note that on my set-up the F-CON is essentially off, the only adjustments being made are from the GCC (through the FCON), so from my experience the FCON is sort of pointless. I think larger injectors with a SAFC (if they work) is likely a better combo, as the GCC is a pain in the butt.
If you have the exhaust, I would spend the $250 on a H3 trim compressor, housing, dynamic seal and back plate (it's not hard to your self). When the $ were available I would go to larger injectors with a SAFC and then turn up the boost a bit.
12-08-05, 02:29 PM
#14
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,890
Received 2,638 Likes
on
1,868 Posts
yeah i played with an fcon and a wideband, each number on the pot was about .5 afr.
i like the fcons, it makes the car run smoother
i like the fcons, it makes the car run smoother
12-08-05, 02:33 PM
#15
wtf's a piston
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Englewood, FL
Posts: 1,717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
yeah i played with an fcon and a wideband, each number on the pot was about .5 afr.
i like the fcons, it makes the car run smoother
i like the fcons, it makes the car run smoother
and they are Extremely Cheap to buy
12-08-05, 06:09 PM
#16
Originally Posted by j9fd3s
yeah i played with an fcon and a wideband, each number on the pot was about .5 afr.
i like the fcons, it makes the car run smoother
i like the fcons, it makes the car run smoother
12-08-05, 07:09 PM
#17
well i hooked the FCON up to an NA, and it seemed to run fine, drove ok with it set at zero, i turned the **** to 6 and it seems rich it, idle lowered, was making loud backfires! lol i got up into high rpm once and it had some bad hesitations/or miss i dont know..... then i turn it to 7 and the car dies, try to start it it fires up then dies again, even if u floor it.... donno why that is.... works up to 7, didnt go any higher it got dark not sure if it allways hesitates, or not only got 1 chance, didnt wanna go full throttle in my residential! i might test it later tonite
Last edited by KompressorLOgic; 12-08-05 at 07:12 PM.
12-09-05, 12:34 AM
#19
well i tunred the **** from zero to 6 did a pull and above 4500 i was getting really bad hesitations backfires and flat spots.... TO RICH!!
turned it down to three, started getting flat spots again some hesitations then at 6500 it back fired and i shot a huge fire ball!! haha still rich, wanst as bad as turned to 6 so yes that **** does for sure add some fuel!!
turned it down to three, started getting flat spots again some hesitations then at 6500 it back fired and i shot a huge fire ball!! haha still rich, wanst as bad as turned to 6 so yes that **** does for sure add some fuel!!
