High school student that needs help
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Los Angeles
if you've never owned one before and you've only been wrenching for a little while, a 2nd gen non turbo will be a handful, but manageable. I hope you have a backup source of transportation.
Dropping the tranny isn't bad, although I initially found it difficult to get the slave cylinder bolts off until I used 1/4" ratchet with a universal joint and an extension I think. When you pull off the tranny bolts make sure you label each one and draw a picture of where they go because they are all different. And use extensions and a universal joint to get off the tranny bolts.
When you are pulling off the driveshaft, mark it in one spot so you know how it goes back on. Also I found it really hard to get the driveshaft off even after I had removed the bolts, until I used a rubber malet and wood chisel to break it loose from the joint. Also use this as an opportunity to put some Redline MT-90 fluid in your transmission which should improve shift quality a little bit.
When you put the tranny back in, of course double check that you put the clutch stuff in properly. I found it easier to get the tranny to line up if you jack up the crank pulley of the engine which tilts the motor down a bit.
Oh, and use a **** TON of pb blaster on all your bolts (especially exhaust) and let it soak overnight before you start wrenching.
Dropping the tranny isn't bad, although I initially found it difficult to get the slave cylinder bolts off until I used 1/4" ratchet with a universal joint and an extension I think. When you pull off the tranny bolts make sure you label each one and draw a picture of where they go because they are all different. And use extensions and a universal joint to get off the tranny bolts.
When you are pulling off the driveshaft, mark it in one spot so you know how it goes back on. Also I found it really hard to get the driveshaft off even after I had removed the bolts, until I used a rubber malet and wood chisel to break it loose from the joint. Also use this as an opportunity to put some Redline MT-90 fluid in your transmission which should improve shift quality a little bit.
When you put the tranny back in, of course double check that you put the clutch stuff in properly. I found it easier to get the tranny to line up if you jack up the crank pulley of the engine which tilts the motor down a bit.
Oh, and use a **** TON of pb blaster on all your bolts (especially exhaust) and let it soak overnight before you start wrenching.
I have transportation of course. When do I apply the PB Blaster?
Sorry I'm such a n00b at this, I'm not a grease monkey (yet)
2nd generation RX-7's don't take more work to take care of. It's the 3rd generations that are trouble. The issues are often twin turbo related.
At the same time, the condition of all 20 year old cars varies greatly. If the car's in good shape then keep it, if it's not then don't. If it just needs a couple repairs then fix it.
At the same time, the condition of all 20 year old cars varies greatly. If the car's in good shape then keep it, if it's not then don't. If it just needs a couple repairs then fix it.
^^ jack the car up (on all 4 stands) the night before you wrench. Get under there and soak all the exhaust bolts especially with PB blaster, but basically soak any bolts you will be taking off. Let the car sit overnight and you will find it easier to take the bolts off the next day when you start wrenching. You also decrease the chances of breaking a bolt. If a bolt looks like it's in bad shape, REPLACE IT. Otherwise it may break when you reinstall it and then you will have mess on your hands. Go to advance auto parts or another auto store and get the kit of "Class 8 JIS fasteners" which will have replacement bolts in the right size (although the hex head is slighty different on some of them, like 13mm instead of the stock 12mm). That kit is like $10 or less.
You may also need to purchase a propane torch from an auto parts store if you can't get some bolts off because of the rust, even after the PB blaster. Basically you heat the head of the bolt up until it's red hot and then put your socket on it. It will be much easier to break the bolt loose. I had to do that when I changed my turbo manifold studs.
You may also need to purchase a propane torch from an auto parts store if you can't get some bolts off because of the rust, even after the PB blaster. Basically you heat the head of the bolt up until it's red hot and then put your socket on it. It will be much easier to break the bolt loose. I had to do that when I changed my turbo manifold studs.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Los Angeles
^^ jack the car up (on all 4 stands) the night before you wrench. Get under there and soak all the exhaust bolts especially with PB blaster, but basically soak any bolts you will be taking off. Let the car sit overnight and you will find it easier to take the bolts off the next day when you start wrenching. You also decrease the chances of breaking a bolt. If a bolt looks like it's in bad shape, REPLACE IT. Otherwise it may break when you reinstall it and then you will have mess on your hands. Go to advance auto parts or another auto store and get the kit of "Class 8 JIS fasteners" which will have replacement bolts in the right size (although the hex head is slighty different on some of them, like 13mm instead of the stock 12mm). That kit is like $10 or less.
You may also need to purchase a propane torch from an auto parts store if you can't get some bolts off because of the rust, even after the PB blaster. Basically you heat the head of the bolt up until it's red hot and then put your socket on it. It will be much easier to break the bolt loose. I had to do that when I changed my turbo manifold studs.
You may also need to purchase a propane torch from an auto parts store if you can't get some bolts off because of the rust, even after the PB blaster. Basically you heat the head of the bolt up until it's red hot and then put your socket on it. It will be much easier to break the bolt loose. I had to do that when I changed my turbo manifold studs.
Rotary Performance sells mine for $210 (previous owner bought it). Dunno what OEM or others cost. I'm not necessarily recommending mine as I'm unsure of the quality. Seems good so far, though a bit grabby.
You can do it yourself if you have someone experienced helping you. If you do it all without any hands-on help it will take multiple weekends I bet, especially if you've never removed a rusted exhaust, handled a heavy transmission, etc. But if you plan on keeping this car and you're on a budget then you are going to have to learn how to do big jobs like this sooner or later.
Do yourself a favor and change the rear main seal (or get the shop to) while you're down there.
Do yourself a favor and change the rear main seal (or get the shop to) while you're down there.
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From: Los Angeles
You can do it yourself if you have someone experienced helping you. If you do it all without any hands-on help it will take multiple weekends I bet, especially if you've never removed a rusted exhaust, handled a heavy transmission, etc. But if you plan on keeping this car and you're on a budget then you are going to have to learn how to do big jobs like this sooner or later.
Do yourself a favor and change the rear main seal (or get the shop to) while you're down there.
Do yourself a favor and change the rear main seal (or get the shop to) while you're down there.
I think I'll look into it, can you link me?
yea the #1 and first thing every rx7 owner invests is a haynes manual from auto parts store..its 16 bucks and will help you in every job..best bang for buck. and as arghx said replace front and main seals should be 15 bucks for both..thats what it cost me. also if you are feeling good then replace the tranny bushings but they only sell the 2 bushings and the main center seal comes with a whole new crossmeber. . cannot buy just the center seal. that cost 60 from the dealer for that..not nessesary though especially if your in a $ pit right now. i too bought me 88t2 as soon as i got my licence 11th grade and to this day i replaced almost every part on the car no joke..make sure you get a job soon. speaking from experience
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Los Angeles
yea the #1 and first thing every rx7 owner invests is a haynes manual from auto parts store..its 16 bucks and will help you in every job..best bang for buck. and as arghx said replace front and main seals should be 15 bucks for both..thats what it cost me. also if you are feeling good then replace the tranny bushings but they only sell the 2 bushings and the main center seal comes with a whole new crossmeber. . cannot buy just the center seal. that cost 60 from the dealer for that..not nessesary though especially if your in a $ pit right now. i too bought me 88t2 as soon as i got my licence 11th grade and to this day i replaced almost every part on the car no joke..make sure you get a job soon. speaking from experience
No, but really....... carry a fire extinguisher so you can handle it when it does. That or save up 5 bucks and go buy a banjo bolt! Welcome to the forum! Enjoy the beauty that will haunt your dreams when you're asleep, your thoughts when you are awake, and your pocket book whenever you get paid! lol. Seriously though, get that banjo bolt, buy a new pulsation dampener, or be on the lookout for smoke form under the hood.
yea the #1 and first thing every rx7 owner invests is a haynes manual from auto parts store..its 16 bucks and will help you in every job..best bang for buck. and as arghx said replace front and main seals should be 15 bucks for both..thats what it cost me. also if you are feeling good then replace the tranny bushings but they only sell the 2 bushings and the main center seal comes with a whole new crossmeber. . cannot buy just the center seal. that cost 60 from the dealer for that..not nessesary though especially if your in a $ pit right now. i too bought me 88t2 as soon as i got my licence 11th grade and to this day i replaced almost every part on the car no joke..make sure you get a job soon. speaking from experience
But definitely get a Haynes manual OP since you're still new with 7's.........it'll save your life in some cases!
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Los Angeles
No, but really....... carry a fire extinguisher so you can handle it when it does. That or save up 5 bucks and go buy a banjo bolt! Welcome to the forum! Enjoy the beauty that will haunt your dreams when you're asleep, your thoughts when you are awake, and your pocket book whenever you get paid! lol. Seriously though, get that banjo bolt, buy a new pulsation dampener, or be on the lookout for smoke form under the hood.
Eh, the Haynes Manual helped me out with alot of stuff in the beginning, but in the long run when I needed **** adjusted I ended up here with all kinds of free useful information
But definitely get a Haynes manual OP since you're still new with 7's.........it'll save your life in some cases!
But definitely get a Haynes manual OP since you're still new with 7's.........it'll save your life in some cases!
Haynes manual is awesome for scheduled maintenance, but for weird problems I just come to the forums.
Don't get a banjo bolt, unless you have a leaky fuel pulsation dampener right now and absolutely cannot get a new PD. A PD lasts 100,000 miles (give or take), and smooths out the fuel system output. Every fuel injected car in the world has one. I'm sure after 100k miles you'll easily save more than what you spent on it. But a banjo bolt is still much better than an engine fire.
Personally I wouldn't put in a clutch myself, and I've been working on my '7 for a while. A buddy of mine took forever to do it and he still screwed up the pilot bearing or some other bearing. Then again I only plan on doing maintenance and simple repairs, while paying for the rest. Especially for jobs that the shop can do it 10 times quicker than I can. And since, just like I advised, I made sure to find an RX-7 that wouldn't need much.
Don't get a banjo bolt, unless you have a leaky fuel pulsation dampener right now and absolutely cannot get a new PD. A PD lasts 100,000 miles (give or take), and smooths out the fuel system output. Every fuel injected car in the world has one. I'm sure after 100k miles you'll easily save more than what you spent on it. But a banjo bolt is still much better than an engine fire.
Personally I wouldn't put in a clutch myself, and I've been working on my '7 for a while. A buddy of mine took forever to do it and he still screwed up the pilot bearing or some other bearing. Then again I only plan on doing maintenance and simple repairs, while paying for the rest. Especially for jobs that the shop can do it 10 times quicker than I can. And since, just like I advised, I made sure to find an RX-7 that wouldn't need much.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 532
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From: Los Angeles
Haynes manual is awesome for scheduled maintenance, but for weird problems I just come to the forums.
Don't get a banjo bolt, unless you have a leaky fuel pulsation dampener right now and absolutely cannot get a new PD. A PD lasts 100,000 miles (give or take), and smooths out the fuel system output. Every fuel injected car in the world has one. I'm sure after 100k miles you'll easily save more than what you spent on it. But a banjo bolt is still much better than an engine fire.
Personally I wouldn't put in a clutch myself, and I've been working on my '7 for a while. A buddy of mine took forever to do it and he still screwed up the pilot bearing or some other bearing. Then again I only plan on doing maintenance and simple repairs, while paying for the rest. Especially for jobs that the shop can do it 10 times quicker than I can. And since, just like I advised, I made sure to find an RX-7 that wouldn't need much.
Don't get a banjo bolt, unless you have a leaky fuel pulsation dampener right now and absolutely cannot get a new PD. A PD lasts 100,000 miles (give or take), and smooths out the fuel system output. Every fuel injected car in the world has one. I'm sure after 100k miles you'll easily save more than what you spent on it. But a banjo bolt is still much better than an engine fire.
Personally I wouldn't put in a clutch myself, and I've been working on my '7 for a while. A buddy of mine took forever to do it and he still screwed up the pilot bearing or some other bearing. Then again I only plan on doing maintenance and simple repairs, while paying for the rest. Especially for jobs that the shop can do it 10 times quicker than I can. And since, just like I advised, I made sure to find an RX-7 that wouldn't need much.
strike up the paean
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,495
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From: fort lee, nj
its not complicated. really the main problems are
#1 the tranny is kind of heavy, so its hard to position
and
#2 getting the pilot bearing out requires special tool or special trick; one or the other
other than that its mostly unbolting stuff, etc. kind of like legos, but heavier.
i recommend tackling it yourself, 100%; esp if you can find someone to help. just follow the steps verbatim in a forum write up or a haynes manual or FSM
#1 the tranny is kind of heavy, so its hard to position
and
#2 getting the pilot bearing out requires special tool or special trick; one or the other
other than that its mostly unbolting stuff, etc. kind of like legos, but heavier.
i recommend tackling it yourself, 100%; esp if you can find someone to help. just follow the steps verbatim in a forum write up or a haynes manual or FSM
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 532
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From: Los Angeles
its not complicated. really the main problems are
#1 the tranny is kind of heavy, so its hard to position
and
#2 getting the pilot bearing out requires special tool or special trick; one or the other
other than that its mostly unbolting stuff, etc. kind of like legos, but heavier.
i recommend tackling it yourself, 100%; esp if you can find someone to help. just follow the steps verbatim in a forum write up or a haynes manual or FSM
#1 the tranny is kind of heavy, so its hard to position
and
#2 getting the pilot bearing out requires special tool or special trick; one or the other
other than that its mostly unbolting stuff, etc. kind of like legos, but heavier.
i recommend tackling it yourself, 100%; esp if you can find someone to help. just follow the steps verbatim in a forum write up or a haynes manual or FSM
Co-founder of R.A.A.
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Orange County
Yeah. I did/am doing my own clutch job right now. Seriously its not hard at all. All you have to do is take the exhaust off, the 4 bolts at the rear of the driveshaft, unbolt the starter, slave cylander, unhook some electrical stuff, unbolt the trans, then there are 6 bolts that bold on the pressure plate, remove, discard, take the pilot bearing out (mine is being a b*tch, but whatever) I highly recommend resurfacing your flywheel too. Thats about 40 bucks. Then install everything back on and make sure to torque your flywheel properly, and be sure to put every bolt back where it came out of. Then break it in.
All this can be done in about 4/5 hours. It sounds worse than it is. It is not hard at all. Just get a friend/neighbor to help to get it done with ease. Also, I am a Junior in high school and I have a job that pays decently. So there should be no excuses why you don't want to do it on your own.
All this can be done in about 4/5 hours. It sounds worse than it is. It is not hard at all. Just get a friend/neighbor to help to get it done with ease. Also, I am a Junior in high school and I have a job that pays decently. So there should be no excuses why you don't want to do it on your own.
