well looky here, yall got a new user.

heh. befor i say anything, i will tell yall i do allot of reaserch before i actually post anything. serriously. but usually that comes up with mixed results and probobly no answer at all. lol.

info about my car. it is an 86 na fc. it has 177k miles and its looks, and runs beautifully. no idol problems, no nothing. you name it, it works.

i have given some thaught about things i should first do to my fc to make it a lean mean street beast.

and no, i am keeping my stock fan cus an e fan would be worthless. see, im a smart newbe!!! ( i am also at homemadeturbo.com as kain )

ok here goes with the all mighty questions.

1. i have heard from allot of people that there is almost no need to put high octane fuel in a rotary. simply because the small ammount of oil it burns adds octane.

2. i was thinking about making a sort of jiant scoop. let me explain. it goes near the bottom of the bumper so that it forces air into the radiator. i dont care ill somehow do it anyway. lol

3. im thinking about getting a full exhaust. ( my school has a pipe bender and the pipes so i gots teh hookup ) and i was wondering if i would see a performance drop ( noticable ) in keeping the stock mufflers.

4. i was told that my 177k mile rotray wont last too long or even past 200k miles. i know this isnt true, ity can go more, but i was wondering if there is a certain failing point like in the 3rd gen rx7s like i have read up on.

5. i have heard something about a gas fitting coming loose or deteiriorating after some time and leaking gasoline onto the engine. is this a major concern? durr... what i ment to say is is it a common problem, and if it is, can someone simply direct me to another post that corrects these issues?

6. oil. dun dun dun dun. well crap. i guess most oil will work out good, but not synthetics. hm... how should i ask this? simply poot, was is an overall good oil rating to put into my fc?

7. hm...

kmon, dont leave me hanging. i guess by now yall know i am horrible at grammar.

i guess thats all for now kiddies. join in at another time when i rediscover the joys of lawn gnomes. cya.

 

Welcome to the forum. I will answer your questions in the order they were asked.

1. turbo rotary engines need higher octane gas, Non turbos run fine on lower octane.

2. They make aftermarket parts like this

3. Non turbo RX-7s use exhaust back pressure to open the auxilary ports at approx. 3800RPMs. Racingbeat makes an exhaust setup to improve performance and maintain this functionality.

4. Its a RX-7. Anything can fail for any reason. But just like any machine, especially a sports car, higher mileage engines do eventually fail. Its failure is not rotary engine specific.

5. It the pulsation damper. Do a seach on this forum and you'll find all you need to know.

6. I use what the Mazda recommends. But oil ratings are based on temprature. Depends on your local climate. Look in the Haynes manual (if you don't have one, its a good book to have) and it will show you the chart.

7.

 

heh, well, i seem to have found the answer, but it still kinda bugs me. octane rule applies to turbo, not to na. right? yes or no, kmon give it to me! lol.

 

crap, you answered it for me while i was writing my own answer crapola!

anyway. cool beans!!

also i got another question. when i am driving, its usually hard to put it into seccond. it goes into seccond fine, the actual shifting is hard work. i usually have to jam it into seccond.
**** its hard for me to explain.

hm... let me think...

midway into the shift it gets hard, and i have to force it. past this point, it simply slides in. there we go!!

 

Read this

 

i already did. somehow, i just wanted more opinions.

 

This hard shifting symptom you are describing is the synchro in the transmission going bad. Usually, the synchro for second gear is the first to go because of "ripping" second gear during hard accelleration. Fixing this would require a transmission rebuild.

 

welcome to the club, i have the same car, 86 FC N/A with 187 K and the engine is running fine after clearing out the old fuel that had been sitting it in for 2 years, only probs i have are cosmetic, paint , cpl of dings , badly faded carpet and the exhaust is about shot, I am going to add a Bonez Hi-flow Cat and racing beat exhaust, only question i wanted to add to this thread , is it worth it to replace the header as well?

 

Consider changing tranny and diff fluids to Royal Purple or Redline, might cure 2nd gear problem

 

Welcome to the club, and may all you wish to see be answered.


And there is a reason we use low-octane in our NAs. It's because carbon deposits suck. We don't need to worry about detonation because we don't have boost. Our timing won't be accelerated enough to cause detonation anyway. As for oil... I use whatever basic dino-oil I can come across in the 10w30 variety.
And yes, try changing the tranny and diffy fluids to a performance fluid made by Redline or Royal Purple.

I also suggest getting your little paws on a PDF of the FSM.


You will grow strong, grasshopper.

 

yeah sure, why not. lol ahem.

 

The octane rating is an anti-knock rating, and that is all. If your engine is not knocking, and you do not think it will knock, then there isn't much point in spending more money on high octane gas. However, high-octane gas will not hurt anything but your pocketbook, so you can still use it if you like. Just note that as far as pump gas goes, the octane rating has very little bearing on the fuel economy, clean burning properties, or power, and all grades of a given brand of pump gas have the same detergents.

Adding oil actually reduces the octane rating, but don't worry about that, because you can't do anything about it.

The car already has this. If your car is having cooling problems, then something else is wrong.

The stock mufflers are most likely rotted out, corroded, and clogged at this point. If your school has a pipe bender, it probably has enough tools for you to make your own mufflers. Example:
http://www.burnsstainless.com/Ultral...temuffler.html

LOL, the certain failing point of the 3Gen RX-7 is usually the nut behind the wheel.

Yes, 177K is probably about all she wrote, but some engines have gone over 300K before blowing up. The 13B engine usually needs a rebuild somewhere around 150K miles, but some have blown with much less mileage. There are a lot of factors involved, so it is difficult to tell when one is going to blow up, although a compression test will at least determine the engine health to a certain point.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/c-pulsation.htm

Use the grade (10w30, 20w50, etc.) as determined by the manual for the weather in your area.

Most people use Castrol GTX 20W50 in warm climates. I have used it in rotary engines with good results since 1988. Don't waste your money on synthetic, especially crummy synthetic like Castrol Syntec. However, synthetic oil is great in the transmission and differential.