hesitation and fuel smell
#1
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hesitation and fuel smell
I have seen quite a few posts about hesitations, but never ones that also involved a fuel smell. It's not the 3800 hesitation, either. My car stumbles at any rpm, and at almost any throttle position. It won't rev over 5000 either. Every time I get on the gas, I smell a really bad fuel smell inside the car. I checked it for leaks today and found nothing, but it was still happening tonight. When I'm just cruising at highway speeds, the smell goes away and the car runs as smooth as can be, but as soon as I get on the gas it trips all over itself and the raw gas smell shows up. I'm getting the vacuum lines and TPS checked on Tuesday. Any other ideas?
BTW, the plugs on my rear rotor were pretty shot (after 4000 miles) so I changed them today...it ran great for about 5 miles and then went right back to the way it was.
BTW, the plugs on my rear rotor were pretty shot (after 4000 miles) so I changed them today...it ran great for about 5 miles and then went right back to the way it was.
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What year rx do you have? If it's the 87-88, it might be your pulsation dampener that's giving you the strong gas smell. On those year cars there is a little screw in the middle of the dampener that sometimes falls out, thus allowing fuel to freely spill on our nice hot engine blocks. If you have a newer style 89+ disreguard this reply.
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Originally posted by vosko
i think its on the fuel rail.... its the part that when it fails make the engine light on fire! def should check that
i think its on the fuel rail.... its the part that when it fails make the engine light on fire! def should check that
I found out where it is in my Hanes manual. Once the engine cools down a bit I'll go check it out.
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#8
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Unique turboii...... You do know about that plug on or near the right strut tower that you jumper and which in turn, turns on the fuel pump? Gotta have the key in the on position(do not start, just turn to on).Seems you could wait until the engine is cool, jumper the plug, and look and smell for fuel leaks. Its a fairly safe method to look for leaks. Gotta jumper the plug to pressurize the fuel rails etc.
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I checked everything out yesterday and all I could find wrong was 1 vacuum line under the IC disconnected. After I fixed that, the fuel smell went away but the hesitation is still there.
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dude, I have a 91 TII and I have the same prob. I get a bad fuel smell under heavy boost. First and second gear drive the car like a beast with no probs, but when I hit full boost in third and fourth gear, my car hesitates until I let off. It is such a great loss in power that I got beat by a 95 Prelude VTEC that was stock on the highway, but I totally romp him at a light. It bothers me and I'm thinking maybe cracked TID but I dunno, if I figure it out I'll make a post!
-nathan-
-nathan-
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I just got back from my mechanic's shop (CNYRX7tech). It ended up being the TPS. It wasn't giving any signal at all, then he tapped it and the signal returned, but was very low. He adjusted the TPS until it gave a good reading at idle. He also installed an engine ground, since there wasn't one. I took it out for a spin and everything was great. It felt stronger before and all the hesitations went away. I went back to the shop and then Mark and I took off for a high speed run on rt. 81. It ran smooth all the way to 140 and then we shut our cars down. I was about home and the TPS crapped out on me all the way. The car won't rev over 1500 but idles great. So, I guess I'll be getting a new TPS and then I'll be back in business.
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mine did the same thing, so I got a new TPS and all is well. I actually got two of them for the price of one, so the other one I will sell if you want it.
PM or email me c_shepherd7@hotmail.com
PM or email me c_shepherd7@hotmail.com
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Tps check
Nathan,
If you are not comfortable working on you car bring it to a trusted mechanic that owns a rx7.
To test CORRECTLY intercooler has to come off and TPS connector located. With key on engine off probe black and green wires. If you do not see 1 volt with closed throttle make adjustments. Work throttle open closed looking for anything other than a smooth cruve.
I know everyone uses the 2 light or resistence method, but nothing beat a lap scope(fluke).
If you are not comfortable working on you car bring it to a trusted mechanic that owns a rx7.
To test CORRECTLY intercooler has to come off and TPS connector located. With key on engine off probe black and green wires. If you do not see 1 volt with closed throttle make adjustments. Work throttle open closed looking for anything other than a smooth cruve.
I know everyone uses the 2 light or resistence method, but nothing beat a lap scope(fluke).
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