NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Ok so I have searched this over, here is what I know maybe someone has had similar problems.

It didn't do it for 400 miles or so.

I got a check engine light, but was unable to pull code when I got home because the light was gone. It had blinked but I don't know how many time, somewhere between 5 and 10 I think, but that was when I was driving it and then it was gone.

I have a general loss of power I think, it kinda feels like something is holding the car back.

And the hesitation, bucking, loss of power all started when I drove it out tonight. I got on it and she had good go I could feel when I really got good power out of it. Than I stopped at the stop sign a mile away and turned and in less than another mile the car started bucking with the cruise control on. It does it at many rpm's from 2000 on up to 4000 (I don't go higher due to break in limitations).

Based on what the first troubleshooting guide on F1-13 on the 89-91 FSM, it could be 1 of 7 options but I think it is one of the first 3. The rest don't make any sense.

The MAF is brand knew and the TPS is new and set to dead on specs. There is not lock nut to tighten down the screw on TPS so it might be out but I doubt it.

I have thought maybe 6 PI but it happens well below 3800 RPM when the 6 PI is engaged.

Anyone have some thoughts I would appreciate it. I can't seem to get the code to come up again and I am all set to pull codes next time it happens, but who knows if it will be soon.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

I knew I forgot something... Its a 91 na, I replaced all vac lines when I put the engine back together. I wonder if perhaps the solenoids where the vac lines connect might need replacing? I don't know how common that is.

Chuck

iTrader: (2)

First, check your compression. If you've blown a seal the car is probably running in "limp" mode. If compression is OK, pull the CEL codes. Here's how:
- Ground the initial set connector; its a single green female connector on the driver's side in front of the strut tower. Just a piece of wire into the connector and grounded on the frame somewhere
- Then turn the key on (don't start the engine) and watch the CEL display. If codes are there they will blink out in long and short blinks. The long ones are tens and the short ones are ones. A long blink followed by three short ones would be code 13.
- Look up the codes in the FSM; there are FSM's online in the 2nd Gen FAQ section.

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

New rebuild on the motor, and there were no codes to pull. Disconnected the negative terminal over night and now everything runs great.

kiker14

iTrader: (1)

just as an fyi - if the CEL comes on - it will stay in the memory of the CPU (until you unplug your battery). If I were you I would start the car up and let it idle for 15 minutes or so to make sure that it gets all the way up to operating temp w/out throwing the code and putting itself into limp mode - the symptoms you described sound like limp mode to me...

either way good luck...

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Just drove around for like 60 miles today without incident. And last night when I tried to pull codes when I got home it wouldn't show anything.

kiker14

iTrader: (1)

interesting - maybe you just had some faulty wiring.... either way glad it's working now, keep your fingers crossed!

NeCr0mStR

iTrader: (3)

Turns out more than likely it is the fuel pump resistor. I went to drive it a couple days ago and it wouldn't even start. Checked the fuel pump wiring and it is not getting enough voltage at the pump harness, which indicates a bad resistor.