Help with temperature sender and gauge problem
#1
Help with temperature sender and gauge problem
The car is S4 '88. The short block is a hybrid, using all S5 parts except the center iron. Rebuilt engine, new RAD, new mazda thermostat.
So... I have to use a S5 temperature sender. According to the FSM for both series, this shouldn't be a problem because both gauges have the same resistance range (154ohms at COLD to 13ohms at HOT) and both senders are supposed to have the same resistance at 80* centigrade (about 50ohms).
I have been through 3 senders, the last one being an expensive mazda sender. All have done the same thing: my gauge only goes to the COLD mark when fully warmed up.
Here's the thing that confuses me. I put a 13ohm resistor between the sender lead and ground and the gauge went to the HOT mark.
WTF am I missing?
So... I have to use a S5 temperature sender. According to the FSM for both series, this shouldn't be a problem because both gauges have the same resistance range (154ohms at COLD to 13ohms at HOT) and both senders are supposed to have the same resistance at 80* centigrade (about 50ohms).
I have been through 3 senders, the last one being an expensive mazda sender. All have done the same thing: my gauge only goes to the COLD mark when fully warmed up.
Here's the thing that confuses me. I put a 13ohm resistor between the sender lead and ground and the gauge went to the HOT mark.
WTF am I missing?
#3
I think pipe thread is such a force fit that it cuts through any tape or sealant and makes contact, but....
I will try bridging the ground between the sensor body and chassis grnd.
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