Help teach me/help me decide on coilovers.
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Help teach me/help me decide on coilovers.
I have a 1987 Fc Tii, with about 220hp. I will be driving on the street mainly, maybe a track day every once in a while.
My oem shocks and struts are about to be toast. Im in the market for coilovers. Price range under $1300. I have three options so far.
My oem shocks and struts are about to be toast. Im in the market for coilovers. Price range under $1300. I have three options so far.
- BC Racing BR - $1195
- ISC N1 - $999
- Powered by Max Pro - $1350
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,835
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
shocks are pretty easy to adjust. you need some kind of test course, obviously a lap at a track is best, but you don't need to go fast so it can be done on the street.
this is designed to calibrate the seat of your pants.
test 1, set the shocks full stiff, and have a lap.
test 2, set them full soft, and have a lap
test 3. set them at 50%, and go for a lap.
your butt is now calibrated, and you will now know how to set them
this is designed to calibrate the seat of your pants.
test 1, set the shocks full stiff, and have a lap.
test 2, set them full soft, and have a lap
test 3. set them at 50%, and go for a lap.
your butt is now calibrated, and you will now know how to set them
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
shocks are pretty easy to adjust. you need some kind of test course, obviously a lap at a track is best, but you don't need to go fast so it can be done on the street.
this is designed to calibrate the seat of your pants.
test 1, set the shocks full stiff, and have a lap.
test 2, set them full soft, and have a lap
test 3. set them at 50%, and go for a lap.
your butt is now calibrated, and you will now know how to set them
this is designed to calibrate the seat of your pants.
test 1, set the shocks full stiff, and have a lap.
test 2, set them full soft, and have a lap
test 3. set them at 50%, and go for a lap.
your butt is now calibrated, and you will now know how to set them
#4
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,835
Received 2,604 Likes
on
1,847 Posts
for ride height, i ran across an article in the JDM Rx7 magazine and i'll just quote from that, obviously season to taste, but its a good start.
they measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch, through the center of the wheel (if that makes sense).
they have 600mm as low, 625mm as middle and 650mm as high (stock is 650-700, it depends on the model)
you want to spend some time and get it as even as possible
they then end up raising the rear by about 10mm.
imo, the rear suspension is kind of the ride height limiter, as you lower it you gain negative camber, and at some point you just have too much
they measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch, through the center of the wheel (if that makes sense).
they have 600mm as low, 625mm as middle and 650mm as high (stock is 650-700, it depends on the model)
you want to spend some time and get it as even as possible
they then end up raising the rear by about 10mm.
imo, the rear suspension is kind of the ride height limiter, as you lower it you gain negative camber, and at some point you just have too much
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
for ride height, i ran across an article in the JDM Rx7 magazine and i'll just quote from that, obviously season to taste, but its a good start.
they measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch, through the center of the wheel (if that makes sense).
they have 600mm as low, 625mm as middle and 650mm as high (stock is 650-700, it depends on the model)
you want to spend some time and get it as even as possible
they then end up raising the rear by about 10mm.
imo, the rear suspension is kind of the ride height limiter, as you lower it you gain negative camber, and at some point you just have too much
they measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arch, through the center of the wheel (if that makes sense).
they have 600mm as low, 625mm as middle and 650mm as high (stock is 650-700, it depends on the model)
you want to spend some time and get it as even as possible
they then end up raising the rear by about 10mm.
imo, the rear suspension is kind of the ride height limiter, as you lower it you gain negative camber, and at some point you just have too much
#6
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (23)
Poweredbymax coils are good stuff. Those will let your grow into. The ones you mentioned are the softer of the 2 they offer, and those are totally streetable.
They sell brand new replacement dampeners so you can refresh them years down the road.
can buy different swift spring rates to adjust to your liking.
This is the guy who designed them. Still runs them on his fc. https://instagram.com/martin_spec?utm_medium=copy_link
They sell brand new replacement dampeners so you can refresh them years down the road.
can buy different swift spring rates to adjust to your liking.
This is the guy who designed them. Still runs them on his fc. https://instagram.com/martin_spec?utm_medium=copy_link
#7
There are still spring options out there that you can use with KYB AGX adjustables. .. .The plus side is you can still get the rubber spring cushions from Atkins or Mazdatrix.
I think Eibach springs are .8" lower and Teins are 1" lower.
Also, don't discount the upper rubber spring cushion when it comes to daily drivability.
If you don't have to reduce the inner clearance for wider rims I would consider this route.
I think Eibach springs are .8" lower and Teins are 1" lower.
Also, don't discount the upper rubber spring cushion when it comes to daily drivability.
If you don't have to reduce the inner clearance for wider rims I would consider this route.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post