Black se7en

Sorry of this is an easy fix. I'm pretty new to FCs (my first actually).

Well, its a 87 TII that was sitting for 3-4 years.
I replaced injectors, fuel filter, oil/oil filter, coolant, water pump, vacuum hoses, UIM gasket, throttle body gasket, fuel pump, new spark plugs and maybe a couple of other things.

I put in new gas, with some MMO and some fuel system cleaner.

So I go to fire her up. She turns over freely, but doesn't fire up right away.
I had some starting fluid laying around so I sprayed some of that into the intake and tried to start her up again.
She started right up and belched out a bunch of smoke (normal with the starting fluid and MMO that I put into the plug holes).

Well, I shut her down shortly there-after (3 mins running at the MOST, if even that) and filled up the coolant.

I try and start her again, but she won't. She seems like she tries to start, but doesn't actually catch. So I figure that it flooded. I proceed to pull out the plugs, pull the EGI and EGI ING fuses in the engine bay. I crank her over a few times. I about 10 mins and cracked her over again. Repeated 2 more times of crank and wait.

Put the plugs and fuses back in. She still won't start. She cranks and sounds like shes trying to start, but doesn't.

Any suggestions? I'm out of ideas myself.

Thanks in Advance!!!
ANY help would be very much appreciated!!!

SDrotary-FC

is fuel getting in the motor? when you took out the plugs were they covered in fuel?

Black se7en

Yes, the plugs were wet.
I pulled the hose from the fuel filter outlet and jumpered the plug to run the fuel pump and I get fuel.
I'm sure the rail is getting fuel, now I'm not sure if the injectors are injecting fuel.
But, the injectors should be good. They were sent out to RC engineering to be cleaned so I assumed they are good.

And the car DID start that one time. So, I would assume the motor does get fuel.

WAYNE88N/A

You're probably still flooded, from what you're saying..At least you learned a valuable lesson early on in your rx-7 career- NEVER shut the car off before she's warmed up enough to kick herself down to the 750 idle rpm, I always found that injecting some engine oil into the leading plug holes helps build compression to the point she'll finally start again, after a flooding...

Jose_FC3S

I just just had the same problem, granted mine is not a turbo, so it may be different. I put some automatic transmission fluid in the lower spark plugs, and after a couple tries, and some starter fluid. It started right up. it could be that there is no compression in the rotors.. im guessing thats what my problem was. not too sure how you could fix it or go about checking if thats the problem, but it could be the problem

Black se7en

Yeah, thats what I thought at first. Thought it was flooded.
Thats why I took the plugs out and tried to deflood the engine.
I shut it down quick because I didn't have all my coolant hoses hooked up (flushing the coolant system, but wanted to see if the motor would start to push out the coolant.)
I didn't want it to overheat, as I know how sensative those seals are to heat. (Had an FD years ago, but this is my first FC.)

I'll try again today to get it started.
So some ATF and/or motor oil in the plug holes will do the trick if its flooded?
Would MMO work? (I did put some MMO in the plug holes on my first time cranking it over, just to help lubricate the seals.)

Black se7en

Well, I get her started. I put some oil in the leading plug hole and let her sit for awhile.
Then she started up with just a little bit of coaxing...

Now heres the bad parts.
I let her warm up, all the while billowing out tons of smoke, and the coolant buzzer goes off a little. Its not a big deal as I'm sure theres still some air bubbles in the coolant system (I'm in the process of flushing it also). I'm going to burp the system after flushing it.

I let the RPMs drop, it still around 1k. But the water temp gauge shows that shes warmed up. So I shut her down. I tried to start her back up, but I get the same thing. She won't start. Have she flooded again??? I know the injectors shouldn't be leaking as they were ones from RC...

Any ideas anyone?

Thanks again!!!!!

WAYNE88N/A

Dude, it sounds like you have some compression problems going on too.

How did she idle when started the last time? Kinda rough?

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

Also you may have leaky injectors which is also a major cause of flooding. Yank those injectors out and either get new ones or just have those rebuilt or cleaned.

Black se7en

She idle'd fine. As in, she didn't feel like dying, there was no jumping RPMs. It was just kind of high, in the 1k range. I figured its probably a vacuum leak or an idle adjustment.

I was told, when I bought the car, that this was a fairly newly rebuilt motor.
I need to get a compression tester......

Black se7en

The injectors I have on now were sent out to be cleaned by RC already...
I would imagine they would be fine, hopefully.

Black se7en

Help? Please?

WAYNE88N/A

You still fighting it, lol?...Pull the plugs, are they still wet?

And people in this world get corrupt and lie about rebuilt engines when trying to sell cars, it's a fact of life...How many miles are on her? Get her started again using whichever un-flooding procedures work for you, and let her get hot- if she's still smoking after warm-up, shut her down & do a compression check, that's the only way to know for sure...

azam

I had the same problem when i got my engine rebuit. The best way to unflood it is by, unplugging the fuel pump realy underneath the steering. Crank it until the engine starts, and once it starts plug it back it in. It always works for me. From what i now the ATF trick is not good for the engine, so it might be a bad idea to do it all the time. Double check tho. Good Luck.

azam

oh yes and one more thing,, i had a flooding problem when my temp sensor was busted,, so u might wanna look at that too..

Black se7en

haha yeah, still trying to figure out how to get her running smooth and strong.

I'm pretty sure the guy is trust worthy. But like you said, who knows......
The car has about ~106,000 miles on it and the motor supposedly has ~2k on it.

The car HAS been sitting for ~3yrs, so maybe some rust formed on the housing walls causing lower compression?

WAYNE88N/A

You sure you don't have any vac leaks, with all those gaskets you replaced? Something like that can really mess with a good startup also...

Then again, IF she really has 2K on a rebuild with used rotor housings, you're back to compression (or lack thereof) issues...