That's the test I was talking about. It is likely a plugged cat. Has all the signs of one. Good idle bogs and hesitates on accelleration. No power.

 

Call racing beat and have them overnight thier presilencer downpipe combo.

err uh unless you live in a test state. (only nice thing about owning an RX in MN is no emmissions testing)

 

Sounds like you have never taken apart a rotary engine after its had water run through it. Nor have you taken into consideration that durning the combustion cycle the water is becomes superheated steam at high pressure.

Water works very very well in the rotary engine (which was designed to be a water pump intially anyway).

I could name a half dozen professional rotary engine rebuilders and professional rotary engine racers that all would have only positive proof that water worked very well to clean out a rotary engine.

Now for piston motors I agree... you could not get enough water into the engine through a vac line to do anything except waste the motor.

But I guess your engineering for 10 years didn't include much rotary engine experience.

 

I have had rotary engines apart and I have seen the relative effects of both water and sea foam on carbon. I simply dissagree with what these people have perceved as results. Just because you have results B in a test dosnt mean it was due to input A. I belive there are other factors involved that were not correctly acconted for in these "experiences" as I have found the exact oposite. Do not presume to know experience I have or don't have.

 

I didn't mean to sound obsinent. I admit I am not a “rotary expert” but I do have experience with them.

Further I have seen results and done calculations on the effects of steam in a number of different uses including many different types of cleaning. I question the methods anyone forming the conclusion that enough water run through a 3-4mm vacuum hose could have an appreciable effect mainly due to the lack of concentration and pressure of delivery. Of course it becomes superheated steam but I question the effectiveness at the concentration and method of delivery in question.

I said before it doesn’t do squat. That was more an exaggeration of my more serious opinion on the issue. I retract that statement in that I know it will have some effect but not nearly the effect that a chemical agent, designed specifically for this application, could have when employed in the manner we are discussing. (NOT ATF)

I respect everyone’s opinion and people all work with the experiences they have. I wasn’t trying to start a fight. I'm sure that that water may help a little but, in my opinion, sea foam is better.

 

my suggestion is rev the **** out of it, it likely is a blockage in the exhaust due to low RPMs, run it up near redline if you can for at at least 5 seconds, run it at about 3-6k pulses for about 30 seconds to 1 minute, if it doesn't clear up then it may not be able to burn off and your precat may need to be replaced assuming it is plugged exhaust.


snake oil...

i would also suggest staying away from the fumes if possible during these types of services even in open areas.


you need to remember that even though it has all gone through the intake there is usually valleys in the intake runners where the fluid likes to pool up and revving the engine is the only way to draw it through, i let engines idle during my FI services at the Cadillac dealer, often the engines die on their own so i will have to restart the engine then rev it up to clear out the runners of any pooled fluid. this process usually takes about 5 minutes or so then i drive it to clear out the rest and fully combust any residue in the combustion chambers, the last remains in the exhaust for a few days until it completely burns off.

if you are pussyfooting around and haven't tried to rev the engine to clear it out, i would suggest that before anything.

 

i dont really konw what seafoam is but if your putting it in your intake, then u it doesnt seem to me like u should put it in your crankcase, thats two entirely different deals therer

 

http://members.nuvox.net/~on.roz/cars/z28/seafoam.html

 

well the seafoam worked a bit too well. it got rid of all the carbon deposits which were holding my engine together

it probably got rid of the deposits on the apex seals which were making the engine run. now I have 0 compression in one rotar and 25 in the other!!

 

the car should run fine after sea foam shortly after the smoke scren stops coming out of the exhaust

 

carbon cant hold an engine together,.. if you had 0 and 25 compression the motor wouldnt start and definatly wouldnt idle.

I agree with the never put anything in your crankcase that goes in the intake, it will just thin the oil.

 

Thats why you only put in 1/3-1/2 of a bottle and you change the oil within a week or no more than 500 miles. I have done this treatment on an engine with 75k miles on it and on an engine with 100k miles on it. Both rotaries. Both still have consistant compression on all faces at better than 100 PSI. My N/A just dynoed at over 150RWHP with 76k miles. (Mustang Dyno)

 

there is nothing bad about seafoam its great if used correctly but not supposed to be in the crank case man only suppose to run it threw the intake
TwEaK

 

It actually gives instructions right on the can for how to use it in the crank case....

 

sounds like something i might use on a running engine just before I rebuild it to lessen the cleaning process. Otherwise, its good old fashion oil changes, quanilty gas, and a redline here and there.