Help: Relocated Battery bad idle and backfire
Help: Relocated Battery bad idle and backfire
I have a 1988 GXL S4 6port just being specific. Anyways i relocated the battery to the back passenger box, and how i did it was run a 4g wire off the + to the alt and then from the alt to fuse box. and the negative on the battery to the top bolt on the alternator where it was grounded before. The only thing changed was, I got rid of the grounding spot half way down the ground wire that attaches to the chassis then to the alt?
Problem: everything works, but now it takes a couple more cranks to start up but once it starts my rpm gauge does not work and it revs to like 1000rpm back fires and then drops and then back to 1000 and back fires. any ideas?
Problem: everything works, but now it takes a couple more cranks to start up but once it starts my rpm gauge does not work and it revs to like 1000rpm back fires and then drops and then back to 1000 and back fires. any ideas?
I have a 1988 GXL S4 6port just being specific. Anyways i relocated the battery to the back passenger box, and how i did it was run a 4g wire off the + to the alt and then from the alt to fuse box. and the negative on the battery to the top bolt on the alternator where it was grounded before. The only thing changed was, I got rid of the grounding spot half way down the ground wire that attaches to the chassis then to the alt?
Problem: everything works, but now it takes a couple more cranks to start up but once it starts my rpm gauge does not work and it revs to like 1000rpm back fires and then drops and then back to 1000 and back fires. any ideas?
Problem: everything works, but now it takes a couple more cranks to start up but once it starts my rpm gauge does not work and it revs to like 1000rpm back fires and then drops and then back to 1000 and back fires. any ideas?
If the rpm gauge does not work then how do you know that it revs to 1000? Thought I'd ask.
The tach requires the trailing coil to be working and Y/L wire going from the coil to the tach making a good connection on both ends.
yea I ment the starter my bad, and because i can hear it rev up. the the B/Y you mean the one off the negative on the battery of the tiny tiny B/Y wire or am I off topic?
Meant to type Yellow/Blue wire from the trailing coil. If you jumper a wire from the Back wire at the leading coil which is a wire that just hangs from the coil and is not connected to anything and jumper this wire to the same Black like wire at the trailing coil and start the car then this would prove that the tach is okay and your trouble lies elsewhere. If the trailing coil doesn't fire then the tach doesn't work when the wiring is as normal or if the coil is working properly then the L/Y wire is the issue or the tach itself which using the test noted would shed light on that possibility.
whats the L/Y wire leading yellow? and everything worked perfect a few hours before doing the relocation of the battery so i either got something hooked up wrong or the grounding is bad i dunno im confused
EDIT: Make sure the trailing coil is firmly bolted to the fender as it is necesary for it to work.
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