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Help: Relocated Battery bad idle and backfire

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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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From: Healy AK
Help: Relocated Battery bad idle and backfire

I have a 1988 GXL S4 6port just being specific. Anyways i relocated the battery to the back passenger box, and how i did it was run a 4g wire off the + to the alt and then from the alt to fuse box. and the negative on the battery to the top bolt on the alternator where it was grounded before. The only thing changed was, I got rid of the grounding spot half way down the ground wire that attaches to the chassis then to the alt?

Problem: everything works, but now it takes a couple more cranks to start up but once it starts my rpm gauge does not work and it revs to like 1000rpm back fires and then drops and then back to 1000 and back fires. any ideas?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 06:53 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by The Wildchild
I have a 1988 GXL S4 6port just being specific. Anyways i relocated the battery to the back passenger box, and how i did it was run a 4g wire off the + to the alt and then from the alt to fuse box. and the negative on the battery to the top bolt on the alternator where it was grounded before. The only thing changed was, I got rid of the grounding spot half way down the ground wire that attaches to the chassis then to the alt?

Problem: everything works, but now it takes a couple more cranks to start up but once it starts my rpm gauge does not work and it revs to like 1000rpm back fires and then drops and then back to 1000 and back fires. any ideas?
Do you mean starter?

If the rpm gauge does not work then how do you know that it revs to 1000? Thought I'd ask.

The tach requires the trailing coil to be working and Y/L wire going from the coil to the tach making a good connection on both ends.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:05 PM
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From: Healy AK
yea I ment the starter my bad, and because i can hear it rev up. the the B/Y you mean the one off the negative on the battery of the tiny tiny B/Y wire or am I off topic?
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by The Wildchild
yea I ment the starter my bad, and because i can hear it rev up. the the B/Y you mean the one off the negative on the battery of the tiny tiny B/Y wire or am I off topic?
Meant to type Yellow/Blue wire from the trailing coil. If you jumper a wire from the Back wire at the leading coil which is a wire that just hangs from the coil and is not connected to anything and jumper this wire to the same Black like wire at the trailing coil and start the car then this would prove that the tach is okay and your trouble lies elsewhere. If the trailing coil doesn't fire then the tach doesn't work when the wiring is as normal or if the coil is working properly then the L/Y wire is the issue or the tach itself which using the test noted would shed light on that possibility.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:42 PM
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From: Healy AK
whats the L/Y wire leading yellow? and everything worked perfect a few hours before doing the relocation of the battery so i either got something hooked up wrong or the grounding is bad i dunno im confused
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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From: tulsa,ok.
Originally Posted by The Wildchild
whats the L/Y wire leading yellow? and everything worked perfect a few hours before doing the relocation of the battery so i either got something hooked up wrong or the grounding is bad i dunno im confused
It's a Yellow/Blue wire. Perhaps another ground going from the battery to the fender is in order. The Yellow/Blue wire ought to have voltage on it w/the engine runing. You can ***** the wire with a pin and read the voltage off of the pin. Make sure you didn't dislodge either of the two plugs connected to the coil which has two wires in one and four wires in the other and check that the spark plug wires for the trailing side are connected properly as well to the trailing coil. The info supplied in this and the other posts ought to help you solve your problem.

EDIT: Make sure the trailing coil is firmly bolted to the fender as it is necesary for it to work.
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Old Nov 11, 2010 | 11:42 PM
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From: Healy AK
Fixed thanks for all the help! So the problem was i needed to be grounded to the starter, the chassis, AND THE EXHAUST.
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Old Nov 12, 2010 | 12:17 AM
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From: Netherlands
goes to show that you should never remove stock grounding points...
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