AR Rotary

iTrader: (3)

I'm not getting any power to my fuel pump or getting any spark. I checked the EGI INJ, EGI COMP, & the ENGINE Fuse in the cabin, all of them are fine. Anyone know what I should troubleshoot next?

The car is a '87 Turbo II w/ a S5 J-spec keg. I was running a E6x and have reversed everything back to a N332 Harness, ECU, MAF, & Pressure Sensor. I'm using the S5 Upper & Lower Intake Manifolds with a S4 Throttle Body. The car does have S4 N/A injectors & Fuel Pump. I'm also running premix and haven't swapped front covers / OMPs yet. Just trying to get the car started before I start putting any more money in it.

The car was getting spark and fuel when the Haltech was in. I reconnected all the wires at the coils, under the dash, and soldered a new CAS plug on. I have no idea why nothing will work now that I returned back to stock.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you getting any voltage at the B/Y at the coils? Should be 12 volts. Is your main relay clicking when the key is set to on? There is a plug with two wires connected to the main relay and one of the wires is B/W. It should have 12 volts as well with the key also to on. Does your tach blip at all when you try to start the car?

AR Rotary

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply!

I haven't had the chance to check the voltage at the coils yet. The tach does not blip when the car is cranked. I tried to listen for the main relay but I don't think I can hear it. Where is the main relay located?

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

exact same thing is happening to me , i am replacing my ecu which i think is the cause of this. and yea same as mine there is no reading on the tach and nothing clicks i tried everything to get spark or fuel

satch

iTrader: (1)

Its a neighbor to the trailing coil. Its bracket is bolted to the driver side fender and is encased in metal and has two plugs going into it.

per Hailers (useful info)

Anyway, seeing as how you don't get the MAIN RELAY to pull in, then go pull the elect plug off the Main Relay that has just two wires (relay has two electrical connectors). Then with the key On and everything else connected together, probe the black/white wire in that two wire plug on the Main Relay. It should have batt power with key ON.

IF it does, then put the meter on ohms and check the OTHER wire in the two wire plug. IT should be going to gnd. IF it is a good ground, then suspect the Main Relay being bad. Never seen a bad one myself though.

Or to power things up, bypass the MAIN RELAY. Just pull the OTHER plug off the Main Relay and get two jumper wires and jumper those four wires in that plug together. Like the B/G to the B/Y and the B/W to the W/L. If you do that you bypass the Main Relay and the ECU will now be powered.......the coils will be powered........the fuel injectors will be powered. A normal car would now start if the key was put to Start.

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

is it the one closest to the fire wall ? if so i havnt checked that one , and if its not getting 12 v do i replace lol and would mazda still carry them ?

AR Rotary

iTrader: (3)

I have 4 more FC's sitting next to my Turbo II. I'll swap the main relay out first thing when I get off work tomorrow. Thanks for the help, Satch.

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

so i can just use two wires and connect them to the specific colors and it will start with no power to those connections ?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but this is based on the main relay being the culprit.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If it's not getting voltage then the wiring to the relay would be the problem as opposed to the relay itself although the relay could be a problem as well in addition to the wiring but not likely. Also, if the relay is not getting voltage then the engine fuse in the car (under dash) could be a possible cause for the lack of voltage.

AR Rotary

iTrader: (3)

Well, I swapped the main relay out and still no power or spark. When I turn the key to the "on" position, I hear nothing. When I turn the key "off", I hear a click that seems to come from that area though. I double checked, and the tach is still not bumping. What is the next thing I should check?

PnoyRx7

iTrader: (3)

i checked the fuses with this thingy ( **** i forget the name but it lights up when there is current or something ) it lit up on the fuse under the hood and dash ( egi fuses )

satch

iTrader: (1)

Remove the plug to the main relay which has two wires and check B/W wire with key to on and see if you have voltage for you should. If you have voltage then take your multimeter and switch the setting to ohms so you could check the other wire in the two wire plug. This second wire is a ground wire. Check with ohm meter to see if you have proper ground. If you don't have proper ground recheck how the relay is mounted to the fender. If you don't have voltage to the B/W wire then obviously your problem is occuring before the main relay and therefore the relay is not likely your problem. If both of the wires check out okay then remove the other plug which has four wires and use two jumper wires and hook them up as stated in the previous post and bypass the relay and see what occurs. If the two wires check out properly and you bypass the relay with jumper wires and this allows the car to start then the relay is fubar for some reason. To get a closer look at why the relay might not be clicking properly you can remove the two wire plug and then turn key to on and then reconnect the two wire plug and see if you can hear it click for you should as it should be very noticeable.

longisland87rx7

Yeah im having this problem too and i swapped out to another ecu and only thing im hearing is the fuel pumping.. my main relay is not recieving power for some reason I even switched the main relay too... i've grounded out everything.. i do however think my alternator is on its last leg no sure if that has to do with no spark though..

longisland87rx7

gonna try that in the morning thank you satch..

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the B/W wire to your main relay does not have voltage then replacing the relay will have absolutely no effect. Imagine if you will, having a lamp which has defective wiring. If you replace the bulb all day long then the lamp is not going to work. You have to figure out "why" the relay is not receiving voltage from the B/W wire which is fed power from the engine fuse located in the interior fuse box under the driver's side dash. Chances are if the B/W wire has no voltage then either there is no continuity in the B/W wire between the relay and the interior fuse box or if there is continuity then there is something awry with the wiring in the fuse box itself or between the ignition switch and the fuse box.

longisland87rx7

thank you again satch im gonna do all of that in the morning and report to you with the results and maybe drifthappy will have some results as well..

calpatriot

Bad ignition switch? (Been there, done that...)

longisland87rx7

do i jumper the wires on the engine harness side or the main relay side on the 4 pin connector ? just wanna double check that.. I am getting power to my main relay and ground but this jumper plan has got to work !

satch

iTrader: (1)

When the 4 wire plug is removed you jumper the plug itself and "not" the relay.

Also, if the B/W wire is giving the relay voltage and the ground is good what happens if you disconnect the two wire plug from the relay, turn key to on, then reconnect the two wire plug to the relay? Since you are standing right over the relay you should hear it "click" when the 2 wire plug is reconnected.

longisland87rx7

yeah im not hearing any clicking coming from the main relay I hear something inside the dashboard clicking only so i'll try jumping on the engine harness 4 pin connector

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are you stating your ground (B) is receiving voltage?

longisland87rx7

i meant to say i was recieving proper ground to that two pin connector but needless to say thats no longer hooked up and ive jumpered the 4 pin connector and i'm finally getting the blipping on tactometer recieving spark injectors are kicking on.. my bac is acting funky clicking pretty consistantly..and it seems like my batterys losing its power so im charging it up right now.. i'm betting that my engine is flooded at least its been flooding on rotor housing closer to the head lights..ughh i've been banging at this day and niteee for i dunno how long but at least theres progress but its just not firing up..

AR Rotary

iTrader: (3)

Well, I double checked all the fuses and studied the FSM. The Main Relay is making a light click noise when I turn the key "on" and a louder click when I turn the key "off", now. I got out the multi-meter and checked the voltage & ground on the main relay, EGI COMP, & EGI INJ Fuses, & the fuse box that holds them. Everything is getting 12V, grounded well, & fuses are good. I checked the voltage to both coils and I'm getting nothing, same goes with the Fuel Pump. From what I can tell from the FSM, It looks like the problem is going to have to be the Fuel Pump Relay. It appears to be somewhere around the airbox from the diagram. Anyone else had problems with this relay before or think it is not the problem?

BTW: I appreciate all the help, guys.

satch

iTrader: (1)

So in an attempt to start the car your tach does not blip at all?