i have a rebuilt s4 motor. my friend. wants to build a chassis that wieghs....1200lbs. and put a rotary motor on it. he wants it to be a carb setup. my questions are simple.

what rotors should he use....
what do u need to run a distributor on a 13b motor.
what are some things he should be considering.
he wants to port. like a large port street port from pineapple.
apex seals. what should we go with. 3mm...... sounds like its mostly for turbo setups.

hes going for high hp with reliability. i know it sounds funny saying that but. its not going to be a daily driver. just during nice days.

what kind of pressure should he be running.
any info would be great.

 

turbo?

he should go bridge port. get a regular distributor and run the 2nd gen coilpacks, and youll be cherry. 9.7:1 ratio on them rotors would be cherry.

 

i heard bridge port is unreliable.
we want a non turbo setup. we want to see how much power we can produce without adding a turbo and etc to it. then we will decide from there. but high compression. we might consider nitrous. after

 

If you want a race car, go peripheral port.
and a bridge port is just as reliable as any other port if properly done, it's just going to be like putting huge race cams on a piston motor.

 

naturally asperated street rotary car. 4 port setup or 6 port setup. carb not fuel injected. which is better and why.

 

Most people who suggest peripheral or bridge porting have never even seen either one, let alone built or tuned such a thing...

If this is going to be a street car, then stick with a street port or bridge port if the owner can deal with the crappy mileage. With a carburetor, avoid bridge ports.

Start with a 4 port engine and get a big street port template.

You will need to run a dizzy. Use the dizzy from the '82 or newer RX-7 as it's fully electronic.

Use the S5 rotors with matching counterweight and flywheel.

Use 3MM seals.

Fuel injected is better then carbureted.