look man n/a is basicly impossible to make 280 whp. Unless u know of a bad *** rotary builder which you probably dont.

I say do a 13b-t swap. and use your left over money on getting bolt on performance parts. Some guy got a bigger turbo and big injectors along with only a SAFC-II(must have FCD though) and made 340 WHP

 

That's not entirely true. Really, machining the housings costs only a few hundred dollars. The rest is standard engine building. The only other non-standard part of the setup is the intake and that can easily be made even with minimal fabrication skills by getting two U bends, two throttle bodies and arranging them so they wrap over the engine. The TweakIT throttle bodies include injector bungs, fuel rails and a TPS. The next step is a standalone and there are many choices there from an inexpensive used Haltech or Megasquirt to something brand new.

It sort of depends. The p-port project I'm working on will be fully streetable with a full and quiet exhaust (the trick is straight through resonators and thick pipe), properly tuned standalone, plenum based intake manifold and appropriate turbocharger. In fact one of the requirements is that the car be able to start in the dead of winter with a remote starter...

But I totally agree with everyone here: recommending a NA p-port to the original poster is insane. The best, easiest and most cost effective choice is a standard TII swap.

Maybe there should be a new rule that says you aren't allowed to recommend p-port unless you've done one?

 

Swap a turbo II and work your way up to get that hp.

that is what I'm doing, just need money, who don't?

 

What I said was that a bridge or p-port with ITBs would be sweet, bridge ported motors are streetable (only by those few who know what their doing, myself not included), and that to the original poster TURBO that biyatch up b/c its just practical for your budget and goals. (Just incase any previous comments where indirectly reponding to my posts) Plus now I think I have an even 200 posts.