ok, im coming to you guys agian with another problem.... once my car is warm it shakes and studders and will not stay alive..... the compression is in the mid 60's and 70's on both rotors and its a rebuild... my car will run fine for about 3 minutes then it shakes and studders runs like **** and dies...... i really need help with this guys or im gonna get rid of the car and i dont want no fuking honda rite now.... i love the rx7 nothing else can turn like it .... it feels like it was ment to perform i want to keep this car.... but being 16 and having no job is stopping me.... i dont wanna get rid of this car i NEED your guys' help!

 

Fuel pump or filter?

 

Could be a vacumn leak or might have bad injectors, check all elecrical connecyions under the hood.

 

Why the hell is the compression so low on a new rebuild? I remember you always had problems with even getting running, what did it take or what was wrong?

 

had to get all the injector seals replaced cuz those were leaking too..... vaccum is fine it pulls about 14psi at 800 or so rpms not shakey or anything.... fuel pump is an fd pump with about 60k miles total on it.... im gonna replace the fuel filter just in case... but its weird.... like it be shakey on start up for 5-10 seconds then rev/ drive normal... then about 2-3 minutes later it gets shakey and very violent i can feel it through the WHOLE car... sounds like its blown when i rev it... i was thinking maybe i just have to leave it running but i cant even do that....

 

all the grounds are connected but im gonna ground the motor somemore cuz it seems like an electrical problem...

 

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/idle.html

 

i looked over it and all but i dont have any of those anymore im running almost bareblock here.....

 

thanks for the help tho! any more ideas guys come on help me out the last thing i want is a honda rite now...

 

thanks for the help tho! any more ideas guys come on help me out the last thing i want is a honda rite now...

 

T_T T_T >_< >_< helllllp me!

 

TTT

 

some replys would be nice right about now

 

keep the boost low or off, put some miles on it (to build compression) get it warmed up, and set the TPS & Timing. That's all the advice I can give you right now.

 

checked the codes i got a code 3 think that might be causing it?

 

[quote]Why the hell is the compression so low on a new rebuild? I remember you always had problems with even getting running, what did it take or what was wrong?[/quotet] rebuilds always have **** compression for atleast the first 1000 miles.

 

Wrong. Rebuilds using the old rotor housings have low compression; the apex seals have to seat in the old grooves (in my case, wear away the old grooves [3pc. to 2pc. seals])

If you use new rotor housings, you can romp on that all you want, w/ compression to boot.

I know I know... I'm splitting hairs.

 

sooooo any more info or help you guys?

 

use the FSM way of checking the TPS and setting it (digital multi meter) make sure your timing is good. Mine has been sharing some of these joys. I'm thinking my wiring harness is to brittle and the removing and replacing of the motor might have been to much.. electrical gremlins own me

 

How many people do you see using new housings?

 

Very true... but how many people do I know w/ rebuilt engines... 2?

I'm sure Silver Spoon Racers use all new EVERYTHING when they get a rebuild.

 

If I had 6k US sitting around to build a brand new engine Id do it. Maybe add another rotor or two

 

 

shakes and studders eh?, check your timming and TPS, check see if your BAC valve is working correctly, I see your using HKS F-CON, did you try disconnecting it? studder and shaking sounds like a fuel problem to me.

any smell from the exhaust? if so it's a fuel problem = too much fuel.

 

car wont start now