I'm looking to buy a '91 Rx-7 Base coupe, and I need some help with an idling problem. The car DOES NOT IDLE! In order to keep the car running, you have to give it gas and hold it at about 3k untill the engine warms up, and then you can let it down to about 2k before the car starts to stall. If you take your foot off of the gas pedal, the car stalls. I'm thinking it's flooding, but I've never heard of a flooding problem that's so bad that the car dies in a NA. Also, once the car warms up, it is almost impossible to get it started. The only way I got it to start once it was warm was to pull the EGI fuse and crank it over for about 20sec, and then replace the EGI fuse and it BARELY starts, as in, if I don't get the timing right, it won't start, and once running the same problems with a lack of idle present themselves. I'm thinking the AFR at idle is messed up, or the throttle is closing all of the way when the pedal is released (how could I check?) The car doesn't smoke at all when it's running after it's warmed up a bit so I think the engine is salvageable but I would like as much advice as I can get! Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Trouble hot starting could certainly be flooding. Check your fuel injectors, or just have them tested and cleaned professionally, Which Hunter is really good for this.

Idle problem could be a vacuum leak, I had this problem a while back. Have someone hold the car at the RPMs needed to keep it running, then go under the hood with a stethoscope w/o the part that goes on the skin and listen at all the vac lines ends for a hissing sound. Find the hissing and you find your leak.

Idle problem could also be your TPS (throttle position sensor), but I wouldn't recommend playing with it unless you know what you're doing.

See if these help, then let us know.

 

Thanks much! I'll give all of those a try as soon as the car is mine! (hopefully tomorrow) I forgot to add earlier that the car has what I think is really sluggish throttle response. I don't know for sure as I've never had an FC of my own, but the BMW 325 I just sold revved freer than the FC I'm looking at does. I've always been told, and have heard rotaries with wicked fast throttle response, would that also be from running too rich?

 

That could also be related to vac leaks / TPS problems. Not exactly sure what else it could be, but then I'm still learning all there is to be learned.

Remember to search the forums before you post, there's ton of information that's already been posted.

 

I have been searching the forums, but generally I've not found much information on cars that stall completely when the throttle is released. A friend of mine mentioned that the Idle Air Bypass may be clogged if the car has one, and I was wondering if anyone knew if the FC NA has an idle air bypass that goes around the throttle body. From what I've been reading and hearing, it sounds like I just have a lot of cleaning and some tuning to do before the car runs fairly reliably.

 

Check all your vacuum lines, my car did that and I found out one of the vacuum line was off. Now everything is running as normal as usual. good luck

 

Thanks. I got the car and now I'm heading out to the driveway to check the lines! Anyone know where I could possibly get a good diagram of the vaccum lines and where they're SUPPOSED to connect? The more I work on the car, the more I get the impression that the last owner didn't know a thing about rotaries... :-(

 

Oh by the way, a bit of an update, I disconnected the air filter housing, and what appears to be the AFM (the big ugly turbine looking thing beneath the airfilter) and the engine started and Idled... it runs EXTREMELY rich (i could probably power an economy car off of my exhaust mix) so I'm supposing the ECU is defaulting to a safe setting, but I have yet to try to run the car with the AFM reconnected so I think I'm going to try that right before I check all of the vaccum lines.

 

when you do decide to check the vaccum lines there should be a diagram in the FSM...there is a link to it in the 2nd gen FAQ sec. and it is under links and manuals

 

OK! Vaccum lines checked... one was disconnected, re-connect, and now the engine idles.... sortof. The throttle response still sucks, and it's making almost no power, however, I believe I know why. I pulled the spark plugs to see what they said (RUNNING VERY RICH) and while they were out, I did a listen check for compression, and found that the front rotor.... sucks. I get ONE compression pulse per rotation... I'm not too keen on the idea of getting a rebuild done because it's gonna cost like 2k, and I don't have the necessary tools to do one myself. Anyone know where I could get one done in the Maryland/Virginia/DC area fairly cheaply? The only thing I'm thinking besides that is I can start searching local junkyards and ebay for a replacement motor. Any Ideas would be great! Thanks so much for all the help so far!

 

if you have myspace i know someone in virgina that should be able to help you..he built his 7 his display name is thats MR.FC to you


http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm...endid=36689989

that should bring you to his page..any issues pm me