hmoobrotor

History on what I have:

1987 TII with S5 motor on S4 electronics (at least that’s what I have been told)


A few months ago, I noticed my 30A EGI Comp fuse burning out so i eventually stopped driving it.


We put in a 40amp in replace with a 30amp and it blew instantly, and burning the EGI comp wires all the way to this module


(first one that burnt out is below)



So i bought another one and for trial and error, reassembled everything back. The car started running fine, but the 30A EGI comp remained blowing.

With that being said, would it be easier to purchase new harness(s) or rewire everything back into place?

Below are pics of what it looks like now



ANY help or guidance would be much appreciated. I have called many ppl who specializes in RX-7 AND called auto shops with lots of experience in the Springfield/Ozark/Joplin area, and no 1 has any idea, or does not want to do the job.

another question, below are pics of some items that i would have to rewire:



I did get some pics of the 2 types of HARNESS for this car: which ones do i need ?


and this



I've been thinking about just parting it out, because everything still works, or just be patient and work on it. Every time i try to diagnose the power/ground/continuity, it seems like i just get more lost and lost. . .I don’t want to do any more harm than I have done, so I’m really relying on help from this site.

if anyone is near Missouri and would be up for helping me get her running, i will gladly compensate you for your time as well. It is spring and i want her running

pfsantos

iTrader: (1)

I'd replace the whole harness. Then hope that was the problem. If not, I'd part it out and say eff the damn thing. But that's me.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

On the 2 wire pigtail, there is B/g wire 40amps and W/L 30 amps. Before you buy a new harness, use a Vom and locate where the short is. You can also solder a new pigtail from another FC or a mazda GLC

satch

iTrader: (1)

Never replace a fuse w/one of greater amperage. Now does this 30 amp fuse blow w/just the key to on or not? This is important to know.

The 30 amp fuse powers the White/Blue wire found at the main relay. The W/L will power the B/W wire in the same 4 wire plug w/key to on. This B/W wire powers the ECU, fuel relay and resistor and the emission solenoids.

hmoobrotor

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Thank you for all who as replied.

Satch: the 30 amp fuse blow when i drive it an extended period of time. It will NOT blow if we switch it on. It has lasted almost 20 miles before it blows out on me. but there is not trend as far as how long it takes.

clokker

iTrader: (2)

Man, your wiring has been seriously screwed with.

Given that you don't seem electrically adventurous, your best bet is to get all new (new to you, at least) harnesses (all of 'em) and redo the car.
It would basically be plug-n-play but still a rather tedious job.

satch

iTrader: (1)

You can try bypassing the main relay. Unplug the 4 wire plug and jumper the B/G wire to B/Y and W/L to B/W. You could also bypass the fuel pump and resistor relay by unplugging it and jumpering one of the L/R wires to one of the Blue wires.

jjwalker

And this is precisely why you never ever ever ever ever replace a blown fuse with a higher current rated fuse.