I am in the middle of swapping a cracked manifold, and a blown turbo. after getting both items off I started looking at what else I could ditch, first thing is the smog pump, from my understanding you need to gut the cats or get a DP and a TP. Is that correct? second I was looking at the ACV that was giving me fitts when trying to remove the turbo, I have no clue what to do after removing this item, so this is the help I am looking for, what do I do next, I know I need to make a block off plate for the ACV and I have access to some aluminum to make a plate, but as for the 2 electronic connectors what do I do with them, will they throw a check engine light, and what vacume lines do I cap or relocate, PIC would really be the greatest help, I do better with a visual than description.

I'm looking forward to getting this car back together, ooh when I pulled the manifold it only had the 2 top bolts keeping it on the bottom 2 where gone, between that and the 3 cracks I found on the mani I'm sure it should get a better O2 reading than what I was getting. Thanks for your Help.

Eric

 

On a series four if the solenoids are not connected, you will not get a engine code.

The acv is held in with only three nuts. About ten minutes of time and makes it easier to remove the turbo. Cut out a plate the size of the acv. It's as simple as that. AND be sure to drill a hole and install a metal nipple where the boost/pressrue sensor gets its feed on a normal car. It's the pipe that sticks straight out at the fender and is near the top of the acv.

Removal of the airpump is as simple as removing the three bolts that hold the airpump bracket to the engine plus the tensioning bolt/bracket at the bottom. You need to buy a double pulley from MAZDATRIX for the alternator pulley so your water pump does not slip at high engine speeds. OR you can fabricate an idler pulley in the place of the airpump as I did. I made a idler pulley out of a old a/c bracket with idler pulley on one car and on another fabricated the airpump bracket to accept a series four alternator. It works.

About the bolts and the manifold......I rebuilt an engine for a fellow recently and the DimmyDimwit who previously owned the car also had a penchet for using a minimal amout of harware on his car. I see he has a relative out there somewhere.

 

I have the smog pump out, and the ACV out I am going to make a block off plate for the ACV tonight. The 2 electrical connectors what size Ohm resistors do i use to trick the ECU, I talked with a friend who has a gen 3 model and he used 33 Ohm resistors.

Thanks for the help

"I made a idler pulley out of a old a/c bracket with idler pulley on one car and on another fabricated the airpump bracket to accept a series four alternator. It works."

I would like to see how you fabbed this, sounds like a PITA (Pain in the ***)
sorry all you animal lovers.

 

We/I have no clue what year car you have. A series four will not kick a code ever for either.

The Port Air Solenoid is disabled after 20,000 miles. The Split Air Solenoid just worked when you were in fifth gear.

The idler made out of a spare a/c bracket. Took a half hour to cut off the excess bracket. Another half hour to trim .3 of an inch off the airpump pulley. Another twenty minutes to drill a hole in the cutoff bracket. A half hour to find a spare belt that would accomodate the new arrangement. Piddle time for the approx two hours to put it on from start to finish.

The alternator took about the same time except I insisted on running battery voltage to the regulator then a wire from the B post on the alt to the battery for grins. It output around 13.5 volts then SOMETHING went awry. The voltage slumped down the seven/eight volt range and I paniced and shutdown and removed the wire from the alt and assured myself the normal alt was still good. Was. A day or so later I checked and the new idler alt still works.

 

[QUOTE=HAILERS]We/I have no clue what year car you have. A series four will not kick a code ever for either.

I have a 1988 TII, 5 speed. I just made the block off plate for the ACV and installed it as for the 2 electrical conectors on the ACV. What do I do with them, just leave them or trick the ECU with a Ohm resistor?

Thanks Eric

 

The ECU needs no trickery for those two. String tie the connectors to the existing harness and leave them alone. Put the solenoids on the shelf for later installation ....someday.

 

Thanks Hailers, I do just that.

Eric