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well, i can think of one thing, a blown rotor will cause your exhaust to overheat but it wouldn't be idling at 2k if so and throttle response would be nonexistent.
try loosening the downpipe or removing the oxygen sensor and drive it and see if that makes a difference.
Exhaust is the next thing i will check and i try to source a new turbo, maybe i can make a video showing the play. Besides that I just made a quick compression test(Piston tester with removed valve) I get (cold) on both rotors equal pulses juming to around 95psi, what you think of that?
i replied earlier but i guess it didnt go through.
Radial play isnt as big a deal as in and out play. Your blades arent touching the housing, besides the dirt its probably fine, and not relevant to your problem. Wheres all the oil coming from thats covering your housing?
Unbolt your exhaust before the cat and try to run it (without starting a fire).
Try checking this intake stuff:
Another dumb question but are you sure you didnt leave a rag or something in the intake? Are you sure the AFM isnt stuck open?
If this were me, after trying all of this stuff, I would start completely over. I'd pull the UIM off which is fairly easy, check all the vacuum lines and make sure everything is hooked up correctly. Check the injector wires, and make sure you have them plugged in correctly, and that you didnt pinch any wires in the intake manifold. check all harnesses, wires and sensors. Look into the throttle body and check the butterfly valves for smooth operation, primary and secondary. Inspect all intake hoses for cracks and all that jazz. Triple check the AFM and the harness going to it. I know a vacuum leak wouldn't cause a rich condition, but after reinstalling everything, Id still do a boost leak test to rule out that variable.
Then after all that checks out, Id start checking the coil wiring. Double check that you have spark on every wire. Make sure the coil harnesses are all plugged in and no broken wires. Triple check that your spark wires are all connected to the correct plugs.
First thank you for investing that much time into this and sry with the turbo, i dont have that much experience with turbos.
I think checking the hole intake system is a good idea anyway, hopefully someone already changed the dampener.
But the sparkplugs, wires, and coils work like they should (tested now a few times), the afm moves freely and the cables to it doenst seem to have any cracks or somthing like that (I removed the isolationstuff to see what the actual wires look like)
I can try to run it without the exhaust tomorrow (my neighbours hate engine noise), but I will do a video of it running when Im home, maybe you hear/see something strange before I start removing stuff again. Really strange that it starts normally and revs smothly.
And there is nothing else in the intake, I always cover the pipes when I remove somthing (i know me, if I wouldnt do that I woould throw somthing in there)
And there is nothing else in the intake, I always cover the pipes when I remove somthing (i know me, if I wouldnt do that I woould throw somthing in there)
My father was a diesel mechanic for 30 years. He was working on his dirtbike one day and when he finished it wouldnt start. He troubleshooted it to the point where he ended up taking it to the dealer. They couldnt figure out, said it was probably the stator. He got it home and looked over it again, and found that he left a shopt towel in the mouth of the carb.
Yes wiring, in german you say Kabel for wiring.
Your right, checked it, nothing in there, made a video then. The upload takes a while (bad internet) but i have to mention that I forgot to plug the ASV back in (remved it earlier this day to check if it changes the rising idle, but no), that caused the jumping idle in the beginning, other then that its acting like the hole time. It took about 3:30min until I saw the turbine housing glowing a bit (I can also smell the exhaust), but the camera cant catch the glowing at that early state and I really dont want to wait until its glowing like a light bulb again.
I will post the video as soon as the upload is finished.
i'd start by fixing the stuck thermowax, then move onto checking timing. if the hot exhaust persists then i would check the exhaust for blockage.
the thermowax being stuck open is a definite problem, as well as your now retarded timing which you can't set until the idle is below 1k.
you can manually pull the cam off the thermowax by reaching behind the intercooler and pulling it up, if the idle drops to normal with the engine warm then you know the thermowax is faulty, likely the coolant passages are plugged or there is an air pocket in the cooling system. on the turbo throttle bodies the thermowax is easy to access, unlike the non turbos where you can only disable it by jabbing the cam with a screwdriver.
Thank you for all that information, I will go through this list later and readjust everthing. I also want to see how that precat thing looks like from the inside, if its blocked I will remove it, I dont need it to pass emissions. I did manually pull the thermowax gear and I could see the normal throttle dropping to its stopping point, but it didnt changes the idle at all, how long does the engine run until the thermowax closes?
Sadly I have an old timing light that needs to be pluged in the sparkwire, so I can only adjust the timing with the starter.
But have you any idea why the idle rises after a while? Because when that happens it olny takes a view seconds until I smell the exhaust.
Intrestingly before I had this glow problem the idle was always jumping a bit, but this is completly gone now.
Lets see if somwthing changes when I do the things mentioned above
Downpipe inlet. Is that rust normal? I know it was standing quite a while before I bought it Inlet filter Outlet filter
What you think? For me it doesn't look to be a big blockage. But this think is really haevy for its size
try to inspect the main cat, and tap that precat with a soft mallet and see if anything sounds like its rattling inside. sometimes the cores inside melt and you cant see it.
Removed the intakesystem today and found somthing: The feedhose for the BAC valve, couldnt see the crack without removing it and its hard as a rock I couldnt get the secondary butterflies to close more than that, hopefully thats enough.
Also it was quite drity in there, cleaned it as much as I clould Two bolts were quite lose and it looks like it wasnt perfectly sealed
But under there it looked good, no leaking injectors and no broken vacuum lines.
I also replaced the vacuumline to the thermoswitch it was quite lose.
I will get a new hose tomorrow and reassemble everything and see what will happen
Other than that the things on the throttle seemed to be how they should be.
For testing I will reuse this precat thing, but for the future I will get a complete new exhaust system, this one is just completly rusted.
Some good news
It took a while to get everthing back together, especially the old rusty exhaust, I had alsomst zero space under the car. The car fired right up again, cold start 2000rpm, but then it did the same as before. That was quite frustrating, at that time I rellay had no idea other then advance the timing (turned the cas clockwise a litle bit) because obviously the timing is to retarded, I also blocked of the thermowax because I dont wanted to have that high idle for testing. So that really changed somthing, the glowing was gone, just the jumping idle came back, but I think thats much better than a burning car , I made two videos of it running, what you think, should I advance the timing even more? I will try to source a better timing light because that one obviously failed.
i can only guess maybe you advanced the timing too far which is causing the surge, try dialing it back some. you can also turn the thermowax screw in until it compresses the spring, that should disable it to bring the idle down as low as the cold start will allow.
So I tried to reatrad and advamcethe timing, but the surging stays the same, I also unpluged bac, aws, without a difference, the thermowax is completely blocked, so the throttle is in hot condition, there are also noch changes when I play with the tps.
I have absolutely no idea what to do next.
try checking for vacuum leaks like fuhnortoner mentioned, a large enough leak in the system could cause it to surge. a cracked TID could be a cause, the BAC feed hose is another, brake booster line cracking.... too many places to list.
Hours of searching for vacuum leaks I couldnt find any more, I also cleaned and tested the BAC valve and its working proberly and tried to play with the idle screw on the valve without any difference.
But I think maybe the throttle body is the problem,
I couldnt get the secondary butterflies to close completely so they definitely let some air through.
Is this normal or should there no air going through? Another picture from the intake side, secondary butterflies down there
11-09-17, 03:22 PM
