pzr2

iTrader: (3)

Hey everyone,

I just picked up this unfortunate pair. One's a silver GXL that had an engine bay fire, the other appears to be a red Sport model or something. The red one is a mangled body work mess and rusting to pieces, but had a supposedly operable engine... 5 years ago. Both are 87s. I'm trying to verify that it works and that I can smash it into the silver car and get straight to rotoring.



This is my current game plan. Correct me if there's something blatantly wrong with what I'm doing:

1. Pull undertrays and check that it holds oil and water
2. Clear out remaining debris in the engine (lots of branches, dirt, and spiders in there for some reason)
3. Vacuum out the dust that's sitting in the intake tract (pull TB if necessary and reseal when done)
4. Remove fan shroud, fan, and belts for AC and PS (accessibility and to ignore noises being made by a possibly conked PS pump/AC compressor)
5. Check that accessories turn (or not) as they should
6. Verify that the MAF fuel pump switch works, and wire in a bypass if not
7. Reassemble intake back up to the air filter box
8. Ohm the plug wires and replace if needed
9. Pull and check spark plugs. Again, replace if necessary
10. While doing the previous item, stick a boroscope in the plug hole to check for obvious damage
11. And then also add MMO/Seafoam/ATF while attempting to turn the engine over to lube each rotor face
12. Once MMO is in all chambers, "compression test" while hand cranking to verify even, strong pulses
13. Eyeball wiring and vacuum hoses for anything disconnected or sketchy-looking (besides the entire car)
14. Install fuses into main fuse box (almost all of them are missing)
15. Hook up the battery and do a basic check to see that nothing electrical is going to explode
16. Disconnect feed and return fuel lines near driver's side front wheel. Return drains into clear, empty container. Feed is extended directly to a spare fuel pump submerged in a gas can and wired to a switched power supply.
17. Unbolt the secondary fuel rail and pop the injectors out of the LIM, but don't disconnect them from the fuel rail
18. Run the fuel pump to prime the rails, flush out the old gas, and check for leakage
19. If the FPD is leaking, rip open intake and replace with spare banjo bolt and crush washers (temporary. I can't find my new FPD at the moment)
20. If the secondary injectors are leaking, change the oil (and make note to get injectors serviced before installation into other car)
21. Anything else leaking, fix accordingly
22. Also, if fuel does not flow from the return, check for clogs
23. Reinsert the secondary injectors and bolt rail back into place
24. If all of the above checks out, crank over with starter motor to build oil pressure
25. Put fuses back in and then try to start the engine
26. If there's any problems, fix accordingly and then try again
27. If engine operates, check that AC/PS work as well
28. Drain fluids, disconnect everything, rip out engine, fix problems, and then dump it into the other car

My shitty diagnosis process:

• Is it getting air? No? Open the throttle body while cranking
• Is it getting spark? No? Replace coils or wires as necessary
• Is it getting fuel? No? Starter fluid into the intake with TB open

If there's something else to be checked, let me know before I set myself on fire on Friday, when I go try to start it.

Also, anyone have any idea how I could make a remote starter switch on the cheap? Would a regular old switch/button rated to 30amps wired directly between the battery and the starter solenoid work? I have the button, crimp connectors, and lots of 16 gauge wire lying around.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the S4 has a connector on the starter wire under the master cylinder, as i recall, makes a remote starter really easy.

barring that, the security relay has the starter wire going through it, and you could jump it there.

pzr2

iTrader: (3)

Oh, that's handy. I already went ahead and made a generic remote starter that I'll be using on the starter solenoid. I haven't gotten a chance to try it though. The engine in the body work damaged car appears to have a stuck or broken apex seal in both rotors. It's been sitting in an MMO and engine oil mix since Friday. I'll be pulling the exhaust manifold to verify what problem it's had, with fingers crossed that the engine can be saved without opening the engine. I'm thinking it's the more likely case given how long the car has sat for.

On the other hand, the engine fire car's core has been rusted to hell. Probably junk. I'll need to do some soul searching on whether to Turbo-II swap it.

pzr2

iTrader: (3)

I definitely have a stuck seal or two. When you read about how to check for stuck apex seals, nobody mentions just how stiff those springs are. I thought the first rotor had 3 stuck seals before I realized I was just being a little bitch. I do have a couple stuck seals so they're currently soaking in some Seafoam Spray. We'll see tomorrow how that goes.

Belts definitely needed replacing though.