headers vs. downpipe....?
#16
I
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header is allot better,
id recomend a collected header for simplicity and street driving...
you only gain a margional amount for having the road race header, and that adds alot of complexity to your exhaust system, as well as running 2 pipes all the way back will add more weight then the hp gain would make up for on a stock port car!!
no down pipe get rid of that cast iron brick manifold
id recomend a collected header for simplicity and street driving...
you only gain a margional amount for having the road race header, and that adds alot of complexity to your exhaust system, as well as running 2 pipes all the way back will add more weight then the hp gain would make up for on a stock port car!!
no down pipe get rid of that cast iron brick manifold
#17
R.I.P. Icemark
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i just skimmed through the thread so i'm not sure if anyones mentioned this, but Rotary Performance has a bonez high-flow cat that bolts up to the Racing Beat header and the y-pipe. I personally have the Bonez "downpipe" that has a presilencer into the high flow cat, into stock tii duals, gotta love it.probably will still run a bonez cat when i switch to the corksport or dual n1s when i finish the turbo setup. No porting = no use for headers.
#18
I live in an igloo
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Originally Posted by TurboIIGuy
Liek FC turbo said " downpipes for turbo, headers for N/A"
AS for what Black plague said that post doesnt even makes sense...
I have a 87 T2.
AS for what Black plague said that post doesnt even makes sense...
I have a 87 T2.
Yea man, cause you know, I have no clue what im talking about
#19
Tear you apart
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Originally Posted by staticguitar313
i just skimmed through the thread so i'm not sure if anyones mentioned this, but Rotary Performance has a bonez high-flow cat that bolts up to the Racing Beat header and the y-pipe. I personally have the Bonez "downpipe" that has a presilencer into the high flow cat, into stock tii duals, gotta love it.probably will still run a bonez cat when i switch to the corksport or dual n1s when i finish the turbo setup. No porting = no use for headers.
So I don't agree, witht he porting = no use for headers. Plus, why just buy something you'll replace anyways?
#21
Lives on the Forum
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I personally dont reccomend the bonez race pipe. The flanges are too thin and will warp over time and creat an unfixable exhaust leak.
Anyway, just keep the header and use it. It will prob give you power gains, and it eliminates a juction that I fouind to be somewhat weak and a general pain in the *** to get too - the junction between the dp and exhaust manifold. Also, if you dont have to have emmisions, just get the RB presilencer - it bolts up to the stock y-pipe or whatever catbacks you have.
Anyway, just keep the header and use it. It will prob give you power gains, and it eliminates a juction that I fouind to be somewhat weak and a general pain in the *** to get too - the junction between the dp and exhaust manifold. Also, if you dont have to have emmisions, just get the RB presilencer - it bolts up to the stock y-pipe or whatever catbacks you have.
#22
Driveline Killer
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Originally Posted by gingenhagen
don't worry blackplague; i got your back.
racing beat donwpipe for n/a:
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=S16206
racing beat donwpipe for n/a:
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....tNumber=S16206
I have always known these pipes as cat replacements....
Yeah they suck.
I ran straight pipe off a couple of stock manifold equipped cars in the past. They offer a very small amount of power increase.
The header is much better.
#23
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Well, Racing beat recommends the downpipe if you are not doing any major fuel delivery/intake mods. It produces about the same result as the header without all the noise.
#25
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Originally Posted by inflatablepets
Well, Racing beat recommends the downpipe if you are not doing any major fuel delivery/intake mods. It produces about the same result as the header without all the noise.
#26
Rotors still spinning
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Absolutely not true about headers not making much of a difference. Headers work better on ANY engine porting style. Here are the biggest gains you can get from your street engine in terms of noticable improvement in power/acceleration. Headers, lightweight flywheel, standlone ecu, porting. Porting being last! Intakes, manifold port runner matching, igniton systems etc come way down the list but the header should be the very first thing to get done. Even the Pacesetter header will out do a downpipe by a long shot. Way back when, I had the Rotary Performance downpipe and a Brullen catback system. I swapped out the downpipe for a cheap Pacesetter header and it wasn't even funny how much power picked up, especially on the low to midrange. Much more driveable, fun, and fast car. Huge difference. It's not about total airflow. Total airflow doesn't always tell you everything since air is funny stuff. It's about tuning.
#27
oops......speed bump....
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I don't plan on porting my engine any time soon. Mater of fact the engine runs great now, as is....knock on wood...hehee.
I was just confused between the two.....
And I'm not a fan of the noise, especially when driving on the freeway.
I was just confused between the two.....
And I'm not a fan of the noise, especially when driving on the freeway.
#29
front wheel drive SUCKS!!
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learn to weld, i used 2.5" exhaust pipe, welded the flange cut from the first cat and the rear cat, used one 45 degree bend and welded it together. i did the air pump mod for the secondaries and ditched to stock mufflers for two front mufflers from a volvo 240 (75-93 240 volvlos have a front muffler that is 2.5" in and out, fit perfectly behind the bumper and only cost about 25 bucks a piece.(no back pressure at all!!, i tested it). You can use some crome tips or keep it under the bumper for stealth(like me). my motor is ported with a custom cold air intake, scoop on hood and cold air box. For a stock feul injection with a air flow meter, the car is a f**king rocket. WAY more power over stock. Remember hot air flows better than cold, so dont think it is better to run 4" exhaust like some people claim, it will acually make more back pressure than a smaller pipe. Turbos would be the only engines to benifit from this.
#30
Tear you apart
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Originally Posted by suburban6lts
learn to weld, i used 2.5" exhaust pipe, welded the flange cut from the first cat and the rear cat, used one 45 degree bend and welded it together. i did the air pump mod for the secondaries and ditched to stock mufflers for two front mufflers from a volvo 240 (75-93 240 volvlos have a front muffler that is 2.5" in and out, fit perfectly behind the bumper and only cost about 25 bucks a piece.(no back pressure at all!!, i tested it). You can use some crome tips or keep it under the bumper for stealth(like me). my motor is ported with a custom cold air intake, scoop on hood and cold air box. For a stock feul injection with a air flow meter, the car is a f**king rocket. WAY more power over stock. Remember hot air flows better than cold, so dont think it is better to run 4" exhaust like some people claim, it will acually make more back pressure than a smaller pipe. Turbos would be the only engines to benifit from this.
Not trying to be a jerk, just hope to be enlightned.