Have we been adjusting our TPS wrong?
Have we been adjusting our TPS wrong?
I was digging through the FSM this weekend, and came across the technical data section. I found the page that has the specs for the TPS. Well for the past 2 or 3 years I've believed that the TPS should be adjusted to 1 volt. But in the FSM it says the series 4 should be aprox 1 volt but the series 5 full range sensor should be a little lower. Has anybody experimented with this? Maybe this is a non issue, but I had to check.
Maybe it's on a different page... but what I was trying to see was what the "D-E", "D-F", "A-B", and "B-C" meant. I assume it's referring to which prongs on the TPS you're measuring resistance on, but I don't know for sure.
...and is this for n/a or turbo?
...and is this for n/a or turbo?
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Note the idle setting is approx 1 Kohm - not 1 volt..
Quick TPS check (while driving)
This works best with a loud exhaust. Find a flat open road with a gap in the traffic. Cruise along at about 2500 rpm. Lift off the throttle. This should give a fuel cut on both rotors as you back down. The motor is just pumping air. Very gently pick up just the slightest throttle. With practice you can hear the rough sound of only #1 rotor getting fuel, while #2 pumps air. Then adding just a little more throttle, #2 comes on.
You can also do this as you slow down in gear and the throttle is very near, but not quite at idle.
As you lift the throttle you can hear the #2 fuel cut before #1.
When you get down to near 1500rpm fuel comes back on to prevent stalling, so this works best between 1500 and 3k.
Quick TPS check (while driving)
This works best with a loud exhaust. Find a flat open road with a gap in the traffic. Cruise along at about 2500 rpm. Lift off the throttle. This should give a fuel cut on both rotors as you back down. The motor is just pumping air. Very gently pick up just the slightest throttle. With practice you can hear the rough sound of only #1 rotor getting fuel, while #2 pumps air. Then adding just a little more throttle, #2 comes on.
You can also do this as you slow down in gear and the throttle is very near, but not quite at idle.
As you lift the throttle you can hear the #2 fuel cut before #1.
When you get down to near 1500rpm fuel comes back on to prevent stalling, so this works best between 1500 and 3k.
Well according to HAILERS post. The series 5 with a full range TPS will need to be adjusted to .8 volt instead of 1.0. I think in the past we have thought (or maybe just me) that all FCs were 1.0 volt. Maybe I'm seeing this wrong ...
One of the pages I pasted showed how to check out the serviceability of the tps. That's the one that showed the resistance from full closed to full open. This page: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1420364
The other page I pasted is also from the fsm. It shows the output of the narrow and wide range tps in volts , to the ECU. This page: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1420007
I pasted the other jpg from some guy called JOHN, I think. I did that because he showed a method of getting the tps into the range shown in the fsm. This page: http://www.johnr.com/tps.html
If your car is acting up, and you suspect the tps, it makes good sense to go to the page that checks the resistance of the tps and look at the thing fully closed and fully open and compare the values shown. But you should also be looking for an open circuit as the tps is run thru its full range. Analog meters work better for that.
The series five two pot tps is set the same for turbo or n/a.
Series four is one pot. I set mine to one volt with a HOT engine and never look back. I've also set it using the two led lights. And then looked at the green/red wire on the series four, and gee whiz, its always b/t .95 and 1.05 volts.
All three methods are just fine, although I have to admit I've never SET my tps by adjusting the resistance. I prefer looking at 1v and then doing something else, like drink another cool one.
I'd almost bet that most tps problems are related to not getting and keeping the engine HOT while adjusting the tps plus a thermowax that's all fucked up as far as adjustment goes.
The other page I pasted is also from the fsm. It shows the output of the narrow and wide range tps in volts , to the ECU. This page: https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1420007
I pasted the other jpg from some guy called JOHN, I think. I did that because he showed a method of getting the tps into the range shown in the fsm. This page: http://www.johnr.com/tps.html
If your car is acting up, and you suspect the tps, it makes good sense to go to the page that checks the resistance of the tps and look at the thing fully closed and fully open and compare the values shown. But you should also be looking for an open circuit as the tps is run thru its full range. Analog meters work better for that.
The series five two pot tps is set the same for turbo or n/a.
Series four is one pot. I set mine to one volt with a HOT engine and never look back. I've also set it using the two led lights. And then looked at the green/red wire on the series four, and gee whiz, its always b/t .95 and 1.05 volts.
All three methods are just fine, although I have to admit I've never SET my tps by adjusting the resistance. I prefer looking at 1v and then doing something else, like drink another cool one.
I'd almost bet that most tps problems are related to not getting and keeping the engine HOT while adjusting the tps plus a thermowax that's all fucked up as far as adjustment goes.
I'm hearing what you're saying HAILERS; but from what I see here, the 1 volt method is only for series 4s. It seems there should be a new .8 volt method for series 5s. My car seems to run great with the 1 volt reading, but maybe it could run better with .8. Maybe I'll just try it and find out!
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