SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

Hy Guys!

So, i've a jumping IDLE...
TPS is adjusteted etc. so i've cleaned my BAC yesterday...

have taken it out, get some brake-cleaner and rust-cleaner through it (many **** inside) and don't touch it 4 the last 12 hours...

5min's before i've taken the BAC, installed it, started and what is?

i DONT HAVE an IDLE... the car stoles when i go from gas...

and from my BAC i hear a sick rattling noise and some whistle...

any Ideas?

HAve i killed my BAC?
Any chance to get a stable IDLE without this ******* BAC? (don't have o block off plate on hand if i need it...

pls help, i need the car in evening *argh*

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

ok, so after i've coold down i'm back from garage and some facts

If i give 12Volt from the Batterie to the BAC, there is on short click and the valve is fully open
when i connect the BAC with the BAC Connecter and turn the ignition on, there is a constant clicking like a *drrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr*... is this normal? can anybody check this on his TII S4 pls?
I've also seen that the clamp on my intercooler hose (left side) doesnt fit... i'm lossing air! can this cause my problem with the IDLE?

need some answer's pls

OneEyedJack

iTrader: (5)

The air leak will definitley cause idle issues ( i would assume) considering the engine isnt getting the same amount of air that it is metering.

Try fixing that and see how it goes.

HAILERS

The bac vibrating as you described is normal. It does not just open/shut. IT cycles at about 120hz.

With if vibrating as you describe, it would seem the input from the ECU to it is good, so not to worry about a transistor in the ECU being burnt out.

I don't know what is wrong with your car, but.........take heed, the car should idle close to 750rpm with the bac disconnected.

I'd suggest setting the idle per the FSM that is free and online. Download the FUEL section. On the whole what you do is, install the initial set coupler with the engine fully warm. Set the timing, Set the TPS. Adjust the idle speed to approx 750rpm. THEN remove the initial set coupler and the car should still idle at 750rpm and when a load is put on the engine like the headlights, fan tuned on etc, the bac will now do its dead level best to maintain that 750rpm and keep the engine from stalling.

Free fsm, online, 24hrs a day. Low cost. Easy read.

SpAm@FC

iTrader: (4)

thx 4 ypu help guys

I've taken off the BAC once again, take 12V to the terminals and get some brake cleaner through it

there comes again a great load of **** out

Reinstalled the BAC and the car runs like never before... holds IDLE perfectly @ 800rpm

thx again, great forum anyway