Has this ever happen to any of you guys?
10-09-02, 02:52 PM
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Has this ever happen to any of you guys?
i'm wondering what would cause the antifreeze fluid to push back into the external reservior?
If you guys have a quick fix or any solutions to this problem please let me know ok? I'm kinda not in any condition to buy a new motor yet.
I've been told it might be:
1. bad radiator cap (cheap fix)
2. bad seal inside the engine? (expensive fix)
3. just flush out the radiator and clean it (also cheap fix)
If you guys have any fixes for me or any trouble shooting technique hook me up.
My email is: wickedkin6s44@netzero.net
Thanks
10-09-02, 03:36 PM
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That's not a good thing to hear!
THis is going to suck man...its still runs but I run the risk of getting it to over heat. So you guys don't recommend anything?
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10-09-02, 04:09 PM
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Originally posted by Mark S
It may just be a bad rad cap or something. If the car is cool start it with the rad cap off and take a look down there. If you see bubbles, you're up **** creek....
It may just be a bad rad cap or something. If the car is cool start it with the rad cap off and take a look down there. If you see bubbles, you're up **** creek....
Its worth a shot though... good luck and stuff...
10-09-02, 05:31 PM
#11
i had a similar problem ...all the coolant kept rushin to the reserve tank for some reason...my rad cap was screwed....whens the last time u did coolant flush? u might wanna do that too.....easily.
also one time my buddy had the same problem and turned out that the ratio of water n coolant wasnt equal so we added more water.....u can try that or vice versa n see what happens.
also one time my buddy had the same problem and turned out that the ratio of water n coolant wasnt equal so we added more water.....u can try that or vice versa n see what happens.
Last edited by Dvst8; 10-09-02 at 05:34 PM.
10-10-02, 02:40 AM
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Well thanks for the info...I will try to do that. I hope its that easy. So you telling me that the ratio of the water and coolant can cause that problem? If so what should the ratio be? I try to put it at 50/50.
10-10-02, 03:06 AM
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SO u think it could be that simple huh?
I hope its one or the two...not the dead engine...part. Thanks for the info tho. I will try this probably this weekend when I have time.
wickedkin6s44
I hope its one or the two...not the dead engine...part. Thanks for the info tho. I will try this probably this weekend when I have time.
wickedkin6s44
10-10-02, 03:35 AM
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Hey guys, before going off and terrorizing good RX7 people 
, lets start with the obvious and cheap stuff:
1) Check the little hoses going to the overflow tank. Replace all of them just in case (dirt cheap fix)
2) Check the rad cap. Replace with a new one, preferrably with a 1,1bar if you want (yours should be 0,9bar)
3) Check (and replace if necessary) thermostat. This is a very common thing....
4) Check (and replace if necessary) the heater hoses (two of them, one going in and one coming out). Also a very common problem
5) Check the car under the radiator after shutting down the car. If anything -i.e coolant- comes out, then you are in luck, because if all the above are fine, then you'll just need some new main coolant hoses (from-to radiator) or a new radiator (still cheaper than a new engine 
)
6) If all the above turn out to be just fine, then you may still not need a new engine. A water seal could have a very small hole, a hole with which you can live by. Make sure that you are indeed getting exhaust gases in the coolant (tell your mechanic to check), and if it is so, then try a very strong radiator sealant first.
7) If 1,2,3,4,5,6 turn out belly up, then you'll need a new engine
, lets start with the obvious and cheap stuff:1) Check the little hoses going to the overflow tank. Replace all of them just in case (dirt cheap fix)
2) Check the rad cap. Replace with a new one, preferrably with a 1,1bar if you want (yours should be 0,9bar)
3) Check (and replace if necessary) thermostat. This is a very common thing....
4) Check (and replace if necessary) the heater hoses (two of them, one going in and one coming out). Also a very common problem
5) Check the car under the radiator after shutting down the car. If anything -i.e coolant
- comes out, then you are in luck, because if all the above are fine, then you'll just need some new main coolant hoses (from-to radiator) or a new radiator (still cheaper than a new engine )6) If all the above turn out to be just fine, then you may still not need a new engine. A water seal could have a very small hole, a hole with which you can live by. Make sure that you are indeed getting exhaust gases in the coolant (tell your mechanic to check), and if it is so, then try a very strong radiator sealant first.
7) If 1,2,3,4,5,6 turn out belly up, then you'll need a new engine
10-10-02, 05:56 AM
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Hmmmm.. my motor had 1-6 of them symtoms.. and now its not in my car
sucks man, hope you dont end up like me
if it does turn out to be 7, i would try that radiator sealer stuff, i guess it can sometimes fix the seal temporarly, i wish i would of tried it so i could of maby drivin my car while saving for it
-Jacob
sucks man, hope you dont end up like me
if it does turn out to be 7, i would try that radiator sealer stuff, i guess it can sometimes fix the seal temporarly, i wish i would of tried it so i could of maby drivin my car while saving for it
-Jacob
10-10-02, 06:18 AM
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Oppps, almost forgot the #2 reason for this sort of behaviour on RX7s:
Check the thermostat housing. They tend to crack ever so slightly on the side that faces the engine. You'll need a strong flashlight to find out the crack, of course after you take it off the engine (no other way actually)
Check the thermostat housing. They tend to crack ever so slightly on the side that faces the engine. You'll need a strong flashlight to find out the crack, of course after you take it off the engine (no other way actually)
10-10-02, 07:22 AM
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No one here has mentioned checking the radiator yet? My car was doing the exact same thing, turned out to be a crusty, plugged-up radiator. $170 for a new radiator fixed the problem...
You MUST get someone to pressure test the cooling system. That's the only really good test to determine if its a bad water seal or another, cheaper cooling problem...
You MUST get someone to pressure test the cooling system. That's the only really good test to determine if its a bad water seal or another, cheaper cooling problem...
10-10-02, 07:35 AM
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Originally posted by GatorRX
No one here has mentioned checking the radiator yet? My car was doing the exact same thing, turned out to be a crusty, plugged-up radiator. $170 for a new radiator fixed the problem...
You MUST get someone to pressure test the cooling system. That's the only really good test to determine if its a bad water seal or another, cheaper cooling problem...
No one here has mentioned checking the radiator yet? My car was doing the exact same thing, turned out to be a crusty, plugged-up radiator. $170 for a new radiator fixed the problem...
You MUST get someone to pressure test the cooling system. That's the only really good test to determine if its a bad water seal or another, cheaper cooling problem...
And pressure testing the cooling system may NOT reveal a leak. I had a heater hose almost ready to explode and leaking coolant like a ****, and still the cooling system pressurization test gave me two thumbs-up
However it will reveal any leaks within the cooling system itself (radiator, hoses from-to engine) if thermostat is open
10-10-02, 12:17 PM
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Nobody has mentioned the fan clutch. On the series 4 version the fan pulls hard up to about 4k, and then maintains ~4k as the engine revs higher. Mine was slipping at 2500. You can get the fan clutch to bite better by bending the bimetal strip outward. That should help for a while. I ended up buying a new fan clutch.
10-10-02, 02:03 PM
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The car is not leaking coolent anywhere until I open up the radiator cap to release the pressure after its has ran for a while...or should I say there's no more room in the reserve tank for it to fill up!