rotaryracer1

iTrader: (1)

air/fuel ratio guage from autometer? i have a dual gauge pod and the gauge, and was wondering if any one else has installed one before. if so please post some pics of finished product.

Scott 89t2

run one wire to power, one to ground, and splice one into the o2 wire. easy. just make sure the right wire goes where.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Its VERY easy just like Scott 89t2 said. I would not recommend the autometer a/f, I have one in my FC NA, and after some time the readings have changed somewhat. When it was new, it will light up the stoich (red?) light at idle, rich under acceleration or WOT, and going back and forth all the way from lean to rich when cruising. After a year the A/F does not light up the stoich (red?) light @ idle and it will not go into a FULL loop when cruising, it kind of bounces from lean to the first two rich LED. I have replaced the connections, cables, and O2 sensor, even with a rebuild engine; the damn gauge would not work as before
.

snoopster76

i haven't had any probs with mine yet, but i probably haven't had mine as long as knonfs. connect it just like scott 89t2 said, that is how i did mine. as a matter of fact, i think he posted the same thing to me when i hooked mine up. i wasn't getting anything because my ecu wire was grounded out.

NZConvertible

Um, have you considered that it might be one of the many other things necessary to run your your engine?! Why blame the gauge? If your temp gauge goes into the red do you blame the gauge and keep on driving? Those A/F guages are such simple devices (I know, I've built one), there's very little that can go wrong over time. They work or they don't. I'd look elsewhere for your problem.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Hmm, lets see:
Ohh and I did try to adjust the a/f in screw in the AFM, try some fuel injector clenear, different gasoline, & replaced the fuel filter!

What else do you think I can blame?

HAILERS

LEAN RANGE: Four red LED's (.050 to .249V)
STOICHIOMETRIC RANGE: Ten yellow LED's (.250 to .749V)
RICH RANGE: Six green LED's (.750 to 1.000V
If your car no longer lites up in the red when at idle, may I suggest that your acv is disabled in some functions or you took the airpump off, or cut the belt. A switching valve in the acv that is non functional, will result in a rich mixture at the 02 sensor due to no air going thru the *port air * passage. Thats the way I understand the working of the acv.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

Let me elaborate more on the problem, when I start up the car it will light up the red lights on a sequential mode starting from the first led all the way to the first yellow led. However once the engine is warm the LED's won't light up at idle which it used to do when it was brand new.

BTW


How do I check the ACV valve, the air pump is on and working properly. I am certain that the ACV works all the way to 4K under load, I know because I disconnected the silencer under\behind the right fender.....it makes a nice wanabe sound for those of us without a turbo.

Ohh and thanks for the info

Scott 89t2

on a lot of cars the idle will be outside the range of the lights. also you can't look at the gaue when you first start the car. the gauge does not work correct till the 02 sensor is warm.

KNONFS

iTrader: (14)

The thing is that when it was new, it would light a LED (@ idle) after warming the O2, however after quite some years it doesn't light up a LED (after the O2 is warm @ idle).

On any case, since I am the only one having problems with the autometer, it seems they are not that bad after all.

Sorry for any misunderstanding

HAILERS

Although you hear a wannabee sound at 4000, that does not mean all the functions of the acv are working. The sound you hear is the relief solenoid opening at 3500 rpm. Thats just fine. But you also have a switching valve inside the acv. It determines if the airpump air goes to the port air path or the split air path. A busted switching diaphram will result in a different 02 reading than one where the switching diaphram is intact and working.