Does the Haltech E6K tell you the a/f ratio? Is so, how? (lean/rich, bar, what?) Also, it is said to have outputs for boost control, nitrous control, turbo timer, and others. Does that mean the E6K funtions as all of those as well as being a fuel computer?

 

You will incur the wrath of many by calling the E6K a mere "fuel computer"! It is an "engine management system" and is quite capable of controlling all you mentioned as well as quite a lot more like full 3D fuel and ignition mapping, cold-start enrichment, closed-loop mixture control, electric fan control, etc.
Go to www.haltech.com and www.hitman.hm to learn more.

 

Here's how the Haltech will display the air/fuel ratio:

 

How is that measuring a/f? I don't doubt that it is measuring a/f, I just don't know how to interpret that reading. Also, is that off of the stock o2 sensor or is the haltech sensor recommended?--probably gettin the haltech one anyway...

 

The E6K controls boost as well, doesn't it?

 

Here's an interpretation. I don't know how accurate it is:



I use the Haltech 4 wire oxygen (O2) sensor $64.

There is a Haltech Boost Control Module $80 that you'll need. Maybe you could use another solenoid, I don't know.

Mike

 

The reason I don't use the Haltech Boost Control Module is that I'd have to carry with me and crank up the computer to make an adjustment that I could see. If you just want a **** to turn, there's a E6S/K trim **** for ignition, fuel or boost $56.

 

Can the **** be mounted anywhere, or does it need to be attached to the E6K? Also, would I need to hook up the old laptop everytime I wanted to change the boost? If not, how else would I designate the **** for ignition, fuel, or boost?

 

Also, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure that 14.6 isn't dangerously lean. It would have to be above 14.7 for it to lean out, right?

 

My understanding is that the **** can be mounted anywhere and, you won't have to turn on the computer.

I think you'd need a separate **** for each funtion. My experience is that you will NOT need to be making changes very often after you get it right the first time. I have NONE of those *****.

All I know about the a/f ratio in mv is that 825 is the lowest safe reading, if RP is not lying to me.

 

Those 02 readings. Are they from a wide band sensor or the sensor that comes with the car or Bosch or ??????????????????????????????

 

 

Thank you.

 

You can make your own **** for less than $10. You can only have one **** too .. you need to switch what it does in software ... ie ign/fuel/boost ... but really only boost is useful on the fly. I mean do you really want to take out fuel on fly? -No! However it does help on initial tuning of maps.

 

readings from anything except a true wideband sensor a pretty much meaningless for tuning anyway. narrow band sensors are exactly that - sensors over a NARROW band.

 

Another perspective is that any O2 sensor is meaningless for high-performance tuning, as it only gives an indirect indication of the engine's operating condition. An EGT gauge will give you a direct temperature indication, while a dyno will give you a direct torque indication.

 

Are you, HWO, trying to say that an E6K isn't a good choice for tuning, because it doesn't use a wide band sensor? If I were to get the Haltech sensor with the comp, it should be sufficient for tuning, right? At least it should be for 1.5g's! Who here has actually tuned their own Haltech anyway?

 

I would highly recommand a wide band o2 to tune the haltech. a local dyno should have one or the person who tunes it for you.

 

AFAIK, no aftermarket computer comes standard with a true wideband O2 sensor, they're a bloody expensive piece of kit. Haltech (and the others) just use a narrow band one for closed-loop operation. This is NOT supposed to be for tuning purposes. You should always get final tuning done on a dyno equipped with a wideband O2 sensor.

 

a true wideband sensor system costs the same if not more than most aftermarket efi systems do. A friend of mine just brought one from canada and it cost him $300NZ less than his complete Haltech E6K set up did........

 

You guys are right; a wide band IS totally necessary for tuning. Did you guys read about the FJO sensor and controller and display for $950? Does anyone else know about this unit; I have a couple questions!

 

the wideband system my mate got is the FJO one, i haven't used it yet, but i will be doing so when i get my T04