I was curious as to what numbers I might put down when I take my FC for tuning in a month or so... here's what I'll be running:

-S5 TII Jspec big street port RA seals
-T-66 Journal bearing turbo
-3" exhaust
-46 mm WG
-720 Prim and 1200 sec (high imp)
-VMIC setup
-A1000 fuel pump
-Aeromotive FPR
-Surge tank
-S4 parallel fuel line setup
-approx 14 PSI boost


All this on 91 octane

 

what dyno are you going to put it on?

 

"big street port": +50
"exhaust": +50
"14 psi", "VMIC": x (14 + 15) / (6 + 15) max

< 390

 

I'll be on a Dynojet I think
Wow thats good I suppose since I'm shooting for 400 whp...

 

400 rwhp +/- 30 @ 15 psi.

~Mike............

 

Ditto.

 

+1 ~400 @ 15 psi

 

360 until your turbo eats one of those RA seals

 

six thousand easily....

nah but id say somewhere from 350-390

 

the guy that built this motor said it would be good for 600 WHP with those seals....

I've heard good and bad things so can you give me your experience with RA seals...
Looks like my 400 HP goal is looking good

 

Are they the super or the classic series seals?

 

You know what.. I have no clue. What are the differences?

I'll ask him too tho

 

Supers are made to handle more boost but don't last as long. High power applications. Classics kind of mimmic the OEM seals except they don't do as much damage to housings when they bend/break.

 

yes please explain this. RA seals are the only seals i use now. thats after years of using oem and atkins.

 

Interesting. This is what my engine builder told me about boost but not longevity. I new to the RA game and have always used OEM stuff. He just had these laying around after a customer bailed on his rebuild so I told him i'd take them and try them. I'm shooting for 15-20 PSI tops so we'll see what that does to them LOL

 

390-410

 

OEM usually don't have a problem till 20-30 so you should be more than fine. And like I said, if they let go, their suppose to just bend, not break and destroy the rotor and housing. And on top of that, I've heard of some builders actually taking them out, bending them back straight, and putting them back in.

They really are good seals, cant wait to see what it puts down on the dyno.

 

Holy Moly!!!!! HAHA true poor man rebuild at its best haha

I'll put up my dyno runs as soon as I have them... just waiting on my VMIC setup to come in and my injectors...

Thx all for your input. I am very happy to know I'll be right around my HP goal

 

Yeah, though I've never seen it done, a local builder told me as long as it doesn't come out looking like a candy cane or like this, just a small bend, it can be bent back and reinstalled.

 

WHOA! Holy Moly!!!

They look like they'd be made of lead.

 

really? 50 hp just with exhaust? I thought it's more like 10-20.

 

IIRC I've seen at least one post claiming that from a dyno and it's also Racing Beat's claim (and I think any decent brand gives about the same). That's a full exhaust: cat replacement and mufflers put together. And that's for a turbo. It's 25 for an NA. IIRC claims for a typical street port are about equal, but a big one might give a little more.

The last formula represents the fact that power is proportional to fuel is proportional to air density is proportional to absolute pressure, assuming you have a decent intercooler keeping the temperature in check. Otherwise higher temp = lower density and gains are diminished. To get absolute pressure you add 14.7 psi to gauge pressure, or I just rounded to 15. I wrote "<" because this is only the ideal.

 

I believe it. I have a mandrill bent 3" from the turbo back, just one resonator and a magnaflo muffler... its sounds so nice. its deep and it made a ton of noticeable power after removing the ebay junk it had before

 

Ra seals work just fine; well over 400hp

https://www.rx7club.com/auxiliary-injection-173/ai-only-dyno-875333/

 

So any dyno yet? I wanna see if I got close.