turns out the last owner had the engine die on him so he put tons of block seal in it to make compression. i found out when i checked teh plugs. there was block seal all over em.

i'm hoping the engine will last for another month so i'll have the money to get it rebuilt. the compression on both rotors is 70psi as of last sunday.

wish me luck with having the engine hold out for a while longer.

 

dood that sux, Sorry to hear that....Damn people that screw you over........Hope everything works out, i think you'll be ok, dont try to burn ricers quite yet, it might be good to you......Sounds like you should get a port job done while you are rebuilding. Hope everything works out.

Hassell

 

Block sealer?

I have never heard of block sealer that would be seen on the treads of your spark plugs. To my knowledge there is block sealer for your coolant system and oil system.

Neither of which should make physical contact with your sparkplugs.

Maybe they went nuts on anti sieze ?

James

 

.

 

thanks man, i plan to baby it now that i know whats going on with it. whats the best streetable port job? i'm looking for good power but still good for everyday. i'd like the car to run mid 13's when all done. is that possible on a streetable port job?

 

no, on the spark plugs where they fire there was block sealer. not on the threads.

 

If you want to run 13's and keep it N/A start looking at a peripheral port or a wiiild brideport. That and also some weight reduction should get you into the 13's with a good fuel injection setup.. (not the stock ECU.......)

Both are streetable if you ask me, but lots of people might say they're not. Try find someone near you with a brideport and experience it yourself.

Also dude I seriously doubt there is 'block sealer' on the combustion side of the spark plug...
Theres no way your engine would still run if someone tried to put block sealant through the combustion side of it.

 

wow really wierd. Sorry to hear that man.

 

what are some of the streetability issues with a bridge port?

 

Some people don't like the idle of them, some people don't like how they will occasionally "buck" while cruising at low rpm.

Most of these issues can be overcome with good tunning and an aftermarket dual throttle body setup though.

They will generaly always have a rather lumpy idle though.
Depends how agressive you make it, and if you want 13's on a full weight S5 then you will need to make it rather agressive.

 

Sorry, that's pretty bad. You might think about having the car checked by a certified mechanic and get an estimate repair bill, then call the seller, tell him you want a refund, or you'll see him in court

 

yea id take it to a mechanic and let him tell you if he see's anything funny but i wouldnt tell him what you think is wrong with it just let him make his own

 

i don't think i need to take the guy to court. he sold the car for less then half the blue book and i have a guy that rebuilds rotaries that will do it for 1000 and i supply the rebuild kit.

 

Damn that sucks. Looks like there was a coolant seal failure or if your really un lucky a warped housing.

 

well i have had to add coolant to the car once since i bought it. so i think it was coolant seal failure that caused it to die in the first place.

 

Hang on im a bit confused here...(wouldn't be the first time.. )
Is the engine dead now or not?
or does it still run?

 

as of right now the engine runs and has 70psi on each rotor. its just a matter of time now before it stops running though.

 

What makes you so sure about that man?
Do you have any pics of this stuff you found on the plugs?

If the engine is running, I _seriously_ doubt there could've been much coating the spark plugs at all... They're pretty sensitive little things..

What else is wrong with the engine? does it run ok? smoking? Powerful (for an n/a that is... )?

 

doesn't smoke, runs well, idles up and down a little after its at running temp., pulls strong from 4000-6000 and pulls even harder from 6000- redline. the only thing is that it starts kinda rough and seems to be losing coolant some how. its not burning it cuz it passed the gyser test and its not leaking cuz there isn't anything reaching the ground.

 

Your motor sounds perfectly fine dude.
Mine was loosing coolant like that, faulty radiator cap was the blame of all that.

 

thanks alot man, so you're problem with losing coolant was solved with a new Rad. Cap? i'll look into getting one and see if that helps. if the coolant was leaking out the rad cap, why wouldn't it be leaking all the way to the ground? is it getting burned up before it gets to the ground or something like that?

 

That really stinks... I thought by the title it was going to be good, like I found out it was a GTUs or something.

 

Basically mine would just come out of the overflow tank. But it wouldn't do it at idle UNLESS it was real hot. Would usually don't do it while I was driving along (at highish RPMs) So this could be your problem aswell, im not saying it is for sure, but its something to check out, radiator caps are cheap anyway, just don't go TOO cheap like I did and buy the wrong pressure rating one.

 

thanks alot for the help. what is the correct psi rating that i should look for?

 

I don't see how block sealer is going to get on the spark plugs. Are you sure the Previous Owner didn't just use an excessive amount of ANTISEEZE on the spark plug threads? Copper anitseeze is the same copper color as block sealer.

If there is block sealer in the engine, you’ll be able to see it in the radiator, the rad cap, and the overflow bottle.