Guages help!
Guages help!
Have searched and couldn't find what I'm looking for! I'm putting in mechanical guages oil pressure and water/coolant temp ...yes I know not the ideal gauges but I love the old look to them ! So I'm looking for write up on how to do this? I want to keep the stock guages working as well "all working as is"as have my aftermarket ones work aswell if possible! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
use an oil pedestal with a port for a sensor.
put a sender on the waterpump for the coolant.
Done..
By the way,Mechanical gauges are fed by little Brittle plastic hoses,so if you spring a leak inside the cabin you got quite the mess on your hands.
put a sender on the waterpump for the coolant.
Done..
By the way,Mechanical gauges are fed by little Brittle plastic hoses,so if you spring a leak inside the cabin you got quite the mess on your hands.
Other than specific manufacturer differences, there is no difference between the look of a mechanical gauge and an electric gauge. The difference between the two is the sensor and guts, not the display. Mechanical gauges are for situations in which you do not have, or do not want, electrical power to operate them. Otherwise, they pretty much suck. Electric gauges are easier to install and may have additional functions, such as user-set warning lights, user-set scaling and range, user-set sensitivity, user-selected units, and data logging.
I think that the look you want is an analog gauge face. For automotive applications, this will typically have a fixed circular scale with a moving pointer, much like you see on an analog clock. The display has nothing to do with the internals or the sensor type, which may be either mechanical or electrical.
Some Examples:
Auto Meter C2 Oil Gauge (Mechanical)

Auto Meter C2 Oil Gauge (Electrical) - Note how it looks almost exactly like the mechanical gauge above.

Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Pro Comp Oil Gauge (Electrical) - Note that this electric gauge has a user-set warning light and peak recall button.

Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Oil Gauge (Electrical) - Note that this electric gauge has a digital display, rather than an analog display like the other gauges above.

I'm not sure why you want extra gauges, but if you are racing then you want good buzzers and/or lights rather than gauges, and if you are tuning then you want a good data logging system.
I think that the look you want is an analog gauge face. For automotive applications, this will typically have a fixed circular scale with a moving pointer, much like you see on an analog clock. The display has nothing to do with the internals or the sensor type, which may be either mechanical or electrical.
Some Examples:
Auto Meter C2 Oil Gauge (Mechanical)

Auto Meter C2 Oil Gauge (Electrical) - Note how it looks almost exactly like the mechanical gauge above.

Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Pro Comp Oil Gauge (Electrical) - Note that this electric gauge has a user-set warning light and peak recall button.

Auto Meter Ultra-Lite Digital Oil Gauge (Electrical) - Note that this electric gauge has a digital display, rather than an analog display like the other gauges above.

I'm not sure why you want extra gauges, but if you are racing then you want good buzzers and/or lights rather than gauges, and if you are tuning then you want a good data logging system.
Go electric. Much easier to install, much more safe and a good quality electric gauge is as -if not more- accurate as a mechanical one.
I second that, I really dislike the T-tube adapters on the radiator hose. You will have no way to be aware of your thermostat being stuck closed at some point and the results will be fairly expensive..
Be sure to put the sender in the water passage of the waterpump housing, where water *exits* the engine *before* the thermostat.
Here is a pic of where I have mine placed. I put it where a thermosensor for the A/Ts was located (manuals have it too):

Hope this helps a bit. Good luck.
I second that, I really dislike the T-tube adapters on the radiator hose. You will have no way to be aware of your thermostat being stuck closed at some point and the results will be fairly expensive..
Be sure to put the sender in the water passage of the waterpump housing, where water *exits* the engine *before* the thermostat.
Here is a pic of where I have mine placed. I put it where a thermosensor for the A/Ts was located (manuals have it too):

Hope this helps a bit. Good luck.
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