greddy style Fmic
01-01-11, 02:20 AM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: S.F.
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
greddy style Fmic
I was looking through the rx7 store and i found a reblica of Greddys 2 row fmic for less than half the price. Considering it. Anyone have any experiance with these or any other replica fmics?
01-01-11, 09:59 AM
#2
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
I'm not a big fan of the Greddy intercooler, whether original or knockoff. Primarily because there is 6 miles of unnecessary piping. If you don't have power steering or A/C then you can eliminate half the piping.
01-01-11, 11:24 AM
#3
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Amherst, Massachusetts
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea, and that Greddy sees fit to increase pipe diameter to 2.5 for extra BLING.
You built your own right Aaron? I was thinking of doing the same: relocate the stock top mount, use a universal piping kit, and the Greddy throttle elbow from rx7.com. Would cost $160 as opposed to $400. Thoughts?
You built your own right Aaron? I was thinking of doing the same: relocate the stock top mount, use a universal piping kit, and the Greddy throttle elbow from rx7.com. Would cost $160 as opposed to $400. Thoughts?
01-01-11, 02:41 PM
#4
I'm sure the 2 row knockoff kit is going to be almost as good. I doubt the core is at the same level of quality but you are probably not trying to do a really high horsepower build.
I have a legit Greddy 3 row kit for the FC. The piping doesn't fit with A/C, power steering, or a stock location battery. I have a relocated battery, A/C delete, and modifications to make it work with the power steering. It is definitely a high quality core though. I don't know about the 2 row but on the 3 row the end tanks are 70mm/2.75 inch.
I have a legit Greddy 3 row kit for the FC. The piping doesn't fit with A/C, power steering, or a stock location battery. I have a relocated battery, A/C delete, and modifications to make it work with the power steering. It is definitely a high quality core though. I don't know about the 2 row but on the 3 row the end tanks are 70mm/2.75 inch.
01-01-11, 04:53 PM
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: S.F.
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What FMIC would you guys recomend then? Ultimately i would like a v mount for the best cooling but thats too rich for me. lol No arghx im not going for super car power just mid 300 or less.
Trending Topics
01-01-11, 07:47 PM
#11
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
HKS, ARC, etc. top-mount intercoolers are still floating around, and having a top mount fabbed up would be less than the Freddy kit.
Generically I do not like FMIC on daily driven/near stock FC's much, just seems to cause a few too many cooling issues. Yeah you can add an aftermarket radiator, but that again is just added expense. A top-mount will work fine for the power goals and can still be made to look decently cool at the "meets' if thats what your into. Add in no 10-mile long IC pipes, no interference with A/C, PS, etc. and its a win.
If you decide to do one and cant find one or cannot find someone to make you one, let me know and I will see what I can dig out for you.
Generically I do not like FMIC on daily driven/near stock FC's much, just seems to cause a few too many cooling issues. Yeah you can add an aftermarket radiator, but that again is just added expense. A top-mount will work fine for the power goals and can still be made to look decently cool at the "meets' if thats what your into. Add in no 10-mile long IC pipes, no interference with A/C, PS, etc. and its a win.
If you decide to do one and cant find one or cannot find someone to make you one, let me know and I will see what I can dig out for you.
01-01-11, 07:59 PM
#12
I'm one of those people as well that will be keeping a TMIC and just using W/AI . I like my AC in Arizona 
. Also, keep in mind, most aftermarket IC kits require some cutting to get to fit right. Personally, for the power range, it just seems like a lot of hassle to go FMIC.
. Also, keep in mind, most aftermarket IC kits require some cutting to get to fit right. Personally, for the power range, it just seems like a lot of hassle to go FMIC.
01-01-11, 08:15 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: S.F.
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i suppose. I live in SF so ac i dont use. Im just useing FC3s pro as a guide. Plus at some point i want to switch hoods to something liter like panspeed and an fd upper intake. Better throttle response. I want to hit the track a bit. I know they make carbon fiber T2 hoods but i Dont like that look. If I could find a different material T2 hood I would go for it but I havent found one yet. This is why I ask about FMIC.
Last edited by Linguo415; 01-01-11 at 08:25 PM.
01-01-11, 08:27 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: S.F.
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yea, and that Greddy sees fit to increase pipe diameter to 2.5 for extra BLING.
You built your own right Aaron? I was thinking of doing the same: relocate the stock top mount, use a universal piping kit, and the Greddy throttle elbow from rx7.com. Would cost $160 as opposed to $400. Thoughts?
You built your own right Aaron? I was thinking of doing the same: relocate the stock top mount, use a universal piping kit, and the Greddy throttle elbow from rx7.com. Would cost $160 as opposed to $400. Thoughts?
to the trash. That is where that POS belongs! No heat soak FTMFW!
01-02-11, 09:01 AM
#17
HKS, ARC, etc. top-mount intercoolers are still floating around, and having a top mount fabbed up would be less than the Freddy kit.
Generically I do not like FMIC on daily driven/near stock FC's much, just seems to cause a few too many cooling issues. Yeah you can add an aftermarket radiator, but that again is just added expense. A top-mount will work fine for the power goals and can still be made to look decently cool at the "meets' if thats what your into. Add in no 10-mile long IC pipes, no interference with A/C, PS, etc. and its a win.
If you decide to do one and cant find one or cannot find someone to make you one, let me know and I will see what I can dig out for you.
Generically I do not like FMIC on daily driven/near stock FC's much, just seems to cause a few too many cooling issues. Yeah you can add an aftermarket radiator, but that again is just added expense. A top-mount will work fine for the power goals and can still be made to look decently cool at the "meets' if thats what your into. Add in no 10-mile long IC pipes, no interference with A/C, PS, etc. and its a win.
If you decide to do one and cant find one or cannot find someone to make you one, let me know and I will see what I can dig out for you.
cooling issues with poorly sorted cars, and the pipes are not THAT long.
Over the last year or so everyone has gone top or v mount crazy, but so few report any back to back tests with no other changes.
I think if you are NOT running AC you have no problem with FMICs, add AC and then it strains the system a bit, most of the people on this board have no PS or AC anyhow so I dont see why its such a topic of discussion.
01-02-11, 10:38 AM
#18
Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Amherst, Massachusetts
Posts: 298
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Haha, yeah my fc is so minimalist it's barely more than the block and turbo. Put it this way: I have only ONE belt, and it drives the water pump and alternator. I would probably fab a v mount for the stock IC on one side so the other can still get ample cooling to the rad and oil cooler. Only slightly better than stock maybe, but I save $$$ and can get rid of the obnoxious hood scoop.
01-02-11, 10:56 AM
#19
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
Yea, and that Greddy sees fit to increase pipe diameter to 2.5 for extra BLING.
You built your own right Aaron? I was thinking of doing the same: relocate the stock top mount, use a universal piping kit, and the Greddy throttle elbow from rx7.com. Would cost $160 as opposed to $400. Thoughts?
You built your own right Aaron? I was thinking of doing the same: relocate the stock top mount, use a universal piping kit, and the Greddy throttle elbow from rx7.com. Would cost $160 as opposed to $400. Thoughts?
Either way the battery has to move, so do that and then sent the pipes right through the rad supports. Modify the intercooler so that the inlet/outlets point toward the engine bay and you've just eliminated 4 feet of pipe and 4 joints over the Greddy style kits. This is now mine is set up.
But if you can't weld aluminum and there isn't a friendly fabrication shop, then you're kind of stuck with whatever you can buy.
01-02-11, 11:21 AM
#20
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 697
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
cooling issues with poorly sorted cars, and the pipes are not THAT long.
Over the last year or so everyone has gone top or v mount crazy, but so few report any back to back tests with no other changes.
I think if you are NOT running AC you have no problem with FMICs, add AC and then it strains the system a bit, most of the people on this board have no PS or AC anyhow so I dont see why its such a topic of discussion.
Over the last year or so everyone has gone top or v mount crazy, but so few report any back to back tests with no other changes.
I think if you are NOT running AC you have no problem with FMICs, add AC and then it strains the system a bit, most of the people on this board have no PS or AC anyhow so I dont see why its such a topic of discussion.
Honestly, I am a fan of not ******* with every other system in the car just to fit an intercooler. Top mounts will heat soak, but thats better IMHO than overheating the motor every time you get stuck in traffic. Add in an AI system and heat soak is really a non-issue.
My PERSONAL favorite for street driven FC's are WAIC's, but they are more complex and expensive.
See:
Even the battery stays in the same place, all you lose is the intake air box, which is no loss
The above is a turbo'ed NA vert, using Haltec.
01-02-11, 03:19 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: S.F.
Posts: 730
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not a fan of v-mounts much either, again, because of cooling issues.
Honestly, I am a fan of not ******* with every other system in the car just to fit an intercooler. Top mounts will heat soak, but thats better IMHO than overheating the motor every time you get stuck in traffic. Add in an AI system and heat soak is really a non-issue.
My PERSONAL favorite for street driven FC's are WAIC's, but they are more complex and expensive.
See:
Even the battery stays in the same place, all you lose is the intake air box, which is no loss
The above is a turbo'ed NA vert, using Haltec.
Honestly, I am a fan of not ******* with every other system in the car just to fit an intercooler. Top mounts will heat soak, but thats better IMHO than overheating the motor every time you get stuck in traffic. Add in an AI system and heat soak is really a non-issue.
My PERSONAL favorite for street driven FC's are WAIC's, but they are more complex and expensive.
See:
Even the battery stays in the same place, all you lose is the intake air box, which is no loss
The above is a turbo'ed NA vert, using Haltec.
01-03-11, 10:26 AM
#22
Engine, Not Motor
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 29,789
Likes: 0
Received 108 Likes
on
91 Posts
It's funny you should mention that, because I'll be doing a water to air cooler in my Cosmo. The primary reason is packaging and to avoid cutting big holes in the car. I figure I can fit a barrel style cooler between the alternator and radiator in front of the engine. It should just tuck in and have a straight route to the throttle body.
