Well, you've one-uped Whiley Coyote!

 

Yeah, my FMIC looked like a blood bath.. It was gross.

FOR THE PEOPLE ASKING FOR PICS, READ ON:

I dont have a camera. I ordered one last week, and it has yet to arrive.

Rat

 

****, now THAT'd of made an interesting pic!

 

damn rodents

 

Agreed!

How are your Oil temps looking like with a FMIC and an upgraded Radiator anyone?

 

crapy! Mine are at like 225 some days when the weather reaches 95-100* I have a radiator panel and an underbelly tray that helped out at cruzing speeds but as soon as I put my foot down and start driving hard the oil temps rise. Now at night they are alot better but durring the hot day 220 and 225 (koyo radiator and old school trust intercooler)

 

Same thing here. A highway cruise is fine and low gas city driving fine. As soon as you put the foot down for some fun, up she goes.

 

Some additional AZ temp info.

Here in PHX(5-10 hotter than Tucson usually)
I'm running 185-190`F on regular streets during day/night on a brand new thermostat.
On highway I creep up to 200-210.

This is on a pretty stock TII engine with Koyo.

I know for a fact the undertray does an incredible job in directing air flow and reducing temps.

I plan to make some ducting as well.

Rat, Get some pics!

 

this is off topic but i assume an na rx7 runs at lower temps ?

 

Well NA's dont have a big *** FMIC in front to block airflow.

 

my friend has an s5 with his fmic setup as a sidemount but its a decent size, he made his own hood scoop to go right over it and the intake(behind passenger side headlight on the hood), the headlight also has the vent mod done to it

 

Of course. When my car was NA it held 1/4 on the stock guage like a champ through any weather.

I drove to Sevenstock without worry while the turbo guys were popping hoods and doing stuff to reduce temps.

Last year I drove turbo'd and it did pretty well. I even used AC for 15 minutes once I got near LA!

BTW I never use AC here so these aren't AC temps.

 

first of all, why do you still have antifreeze? straight water is much better for cooling, and just add some rust-inhibitor if you're worried about it rusting the system...

even after that, if its still running hot, theres this stuff called water wetter i think... that helps too


or am i just totally wrong about everything?

 

I will let you guys take this one

 

quote-unquote from my shop teacher with over 35 years of experience

 

I don't see a problem with what he said iceblue...

In a place like AZ where the water most likely WONT freeze, you can run straight water with an additive for rust protection, it's a common thing to do.

 

Water quickly turns to steam and then stops cooling. Waterweter wont prevent it from turning to steam. Even on the back of waterweter bottle will say the mixtures to use. Clearly stating to use a antifreez agent. That is the whol reson our systems are presurized to raise the boiling point. Antifreez allso keeps the water ratio down to slow down the steam transition

I do not see any diferance from runing 50% to 100% with or without a rust aditive. If the system was going to rust it would do so under 50%. So why would the rust aditive be needed now and not befor?

I can vouch and no meany others who could as well. When running 100% water and there system quickly overheated.

EDIT: Here is another exsplination. When the water boils over and/or turns to steam the presure cap will open even more so when the steam hits it "steam will cause more presure do to the exspantion of air it will create" causing the steam to leave the vent tube. Since the water has changed propertys it will not be a liquid in the container thus evaperating and leaving your cooling system forever. This combination in a short time will yield your system low on coolant causing you to overheat even faster. In return causing the water to change to steam even faster leaving the system at a accelorated rate.

 

Some #'s for thought:

@ 10psi 33% antifreeze mix boils at ~120*C
@ 10psi 55% antifreeze mix boils at ~125*C
@ 15psi 33% antifreeze mix boils at ~125*C
@ 15psi 55% antifreeze mix boils at ~129*C

As you can see, you can run higher pressure with less ethylene glycol, and still have a similar boiling area.

 

5 days and still no pics

 

Pics.....Where are they?

 

I live in AZ, and I have stock intercooler and radiator and my oil gets up to 210 degrees with light driving. I never get on the gas during the middle of the day in AZ it is just too hot!

 

I was hitting 210-225 range the other day going 70 in vacuum under light throttle.

Time for me to check my water pump belts and maybe do my ducting.

 

Wow, I'm almost glad I don't have an oil temp. gauge, lol.

"What you don't know, can't hurt you" haha.

Nah, I'll probably get an aftermarket water temp. and oil temp. gauge sometime in the near future (probably coinciding with my FMIC)

PICS!!!

 

Okay guys, I am going to rework some of the ducting, then I will take pictures. I ended up getting a better under tray. I will say this, I had it out in 108 degree temps, and I was still kosher at 195!

 

Hurrump! Dry heat in AZ........ humor