good deal or bad?
10-08-09, 10:54 PM
#1
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Biloxi, MS
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
good deal or bad?
THIS IS HIS ADD
i want to know if its worth buying, im trying to talk him down..
and any one have any idea of how much i could make parting it out?
and does the motor really sound effed
Year: 1991
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7 Turbo II S5 VIN# JM1FC332XM0901978
Price: 2000 OBO or trade for daily driver, such as civic, cressida, orother
Title: Clear
When I test drove the car it seem to run fine, exept for loading up, and trying to die. I was told that a Mazda mechanic said it had a stuck open fuel injector, I researched it when I got home before I bought it, and it seemed to be a common problem, and fit the description of how it would run, (seem to flood after a little bit and not want to re-start). When I got home with it, it ran worse and worse, it got to where it wouldn't make it around the block. I bought 4 brand new RC 550cc fuel injectors and installed them in the car with no change at all.
When I was talking to the guy when I was looking to buy it he told me that the motor and transmission had recently been rebuilt and that the motor was streetported (I seriously doubt it) all I cared about was that the motor was supposebly rebuilt, the motor looked to be in decent shape. I was told it had good compression. I found out pretty soon that that was not the case, the motors rear rotor had 10psi compression and the front had 85psi compression which we tested with a standard compression tester.
The seat mounting holes are stripped, I retapped the driver side as best I could, and it seems to be sturdy enough, but I wasn't able to finish the passenger side, either do it yourself or take it to a shop and have it done proffesionally. The car has no stereo equipment. Rust wise it doesnt seem to be everywhere but it does have a hole underneath the car on the floor pans in the back passsenger corner, there may be more but i havent seen alot. The paint is custom but is pretty rough, chipped, and cracked. Its black with some kind of blueish flake and eggplant purple accent fades. The front tip of the hood is bent where the previous owner hit something, the front bumper on the bottom is cracked, and the passenger fender has a small bend in it, and the fog light on the passenger side is bent back a bit, it doesnt seem like bad damage, I didn't notice it pulling on a test run when I went to buy it. Supposebly a bearing in the rear end is worn out and will wine after you head down the road. The car will not drive anywhere, it can start, and idle high for a little bit but it will want to die at idle and not start up for a while. It will need to be trailored. Your best bet is to have the motor replaced with another one in my opinion, but you wont know for sure until it is opened up and inspected. I was going to rebuild it as a drift car but couldn't find anyone locally to rebuild my motor. The car has many aftermarket parts and is great for a project car or a parts car, it is black on black and the interior is in decent shape for a car its age. heres a list of parts i have found on the car...
- Brand new RC Engineering 550cc fuel injectors
-Eibach Anti-Roll-Kit sway bars (front & back)
-IRotor drilled and sloted brake rotors front and back
-Custom full length exhaust
-Short shifter
-Momo shift ****, steering wheels, pedals, ebrake handle
-Sparco 4 point seat harness
-Corbeau Forza seat (passenger seat converted to driver side)
-Eibach lowering springs
-Aftermarket racing clutch
-Tanabe Sustec front strut tower bar.
-KYB adjustable shocks
-Koyo aluminum radiator
-Electric fan
-Aluminum intake and cone filter
-A'pex twin chamber blow off valve
-Twin belt altenator pulley
-Magnacor KV85 Compettion spark plug wires
-Energy Suspenion performance polyurethane components
-Brand new clutch in box
-Spare coil packs
-Stock driver and passenger seat
-Body kit front bumper and side skirts
-Stock RX-7 Momo stearing wheel
-Some sort of GReddy fuel cut eliminator is on the car also
this is what Gorilla RE sent me for prices so people on here wondering what it will cost can figure out what they want to do...
Ok, prices are as follows:
1) Remove and Replace engine $1350
2) Rebuild and clearance engine $1550
3) Porting (Gorilla RE street port and exhaust port) .$545
4) Gorilla RE block modifications to oil, coolant and EGR
passages ... ...$250
k0BKNE2zCTjg~~_3.JPG)
BKNE2NYOOw~~_3.JPG)
i want to know if its worth buying, im trying to talk him down..
and any one have any idea of how much i could make parting it out?
and does the motor really sound effed
Year: 1991
Make: Mazda
Model: RX-7 Turbo II S5 VIN# JM1FC332XM0901978
Price: 2000 OBO or trade for daily driver, such as civic, cressida, orother
Title: Clear
When I test drove the car it seem to run fine, exept for loading up, and trying to die. I was told that a Mazda mechanic said it had a stuck open fuel injector, I researched it when I got home before I bought it, and it seemed to be a common problem, and fit the description of how it would run, (seem to flood after a little bit and not want to re-start). When I got home with it, it ran worse and worse, it got to where it wouldn't make it around the block. I bought 4 brand new RC 550cc fuel injectors and installed them in the car with no change at all.
When I was talking to the guy when I was looking to buy it he told me that the motor and transmission had recently been rebuilt and that the motor was streetported (I seriously doubt it) all I cared about was that the motor was supposebly rebuilt, the motor looked to be in decent shape. I was told it had good compression. I found out pretty soon that that was not the case, the motors rear rotor had 10psi compression and the front had 85psi compression which we tested with a standard compression tester.
The seat mounting holes are stripped, I retapped the driver side as best I could, and it seems to be sturdy enough, but I wasn't able to finish the passenger side, either do it yourself or take it to a shop and have it done proffesionally. The car has no stereo equipment. Rust wise it doesnt seem to be everywhere but it does have a hole underneath the car on the floor pans in the back passsenger corner, there may be more but i havent seen alot. The paint is custom but is pretty rough, chipped, and cracked. Its black with some kind of blueish flake and eggplant purple accent fades. The front tip of the hood is bent where the previous owner hit something, the front bumper on the bottom is cracked, and the passenger fender has a small bend in it, and the fog light on the passenger side is bent back a bit, it doesnt seem like bad damage, I didn't notice it pulling on a test run when I went to buy it. Supposebly a bearing in the rear end is worn out and will wine after you head down the road. The car will not drive anywhere, it can start, and idle high for a little bit but it will want to die at idle and not start up for a while. It will need to be trailored. Your best bet is to have the motor replaced with another one in my opinion, but you wont know for sure until it is opened up and inspected. I was going to rebuild it as a drift car but couldn't find anyone locally to rebuild my motor. The car has many aftermarket parts and is great for a project car or a parts car, it is black on black and the interior is in decent shape for a car its age. heres a list of parts i have found on the car...
- Brand new RC Engineering 550cc fuel injectors
-Eibach Anti-Roll-Kit sway bars (front & back)
-IRotor drilled and sloted brake rotors front and back
-Custom full length exhaust
-Short shifter
-Momo shift ****, steering wheels, pedals, ebrake handle
-Sparco 4 point seat harness
-Corbeau Forza seat (passenger seat converted to driver side)
-Eibach lowering springs
-Aftermarket racing clutch
-Tanabe Sustec front strut tower bar.
-KYB adjustable shocks
-Koyo aluminum radiator
-Electric fan
-Aluminum intake and cone filter
-A'pex twin chamber blow off valve
-Twin belt altenator pulley
-Magnacor KV85 Compettion spark plug wires
-Energy Suspenion performance polyurethane components
-Brand new clutch in box
-Spare coil packs
-Stock driver and passenger seat
-Body kit front bumper and side skirts
-Stock RX-7 Momo stearing wheel
-Some sort of GReddy fuel cut eliminator is on the car also
this is what Gorilla RE sent me for prices so people on here wondering what it will cost can figure out what they want to do...
Ok, prices are as follows:
1) Remove and Replace engine $1350
2) Rebuild and clearance engine $1550
3) Porting (Gorilla RE street port and exhaust port) .$545
4) Gorilla RE block modifications to oil, coolant and EGR
passages ... ...$250
10-09-09, 08:22 AM
#2
In my opinion its not worth 200$
Its not worth 2000. The fact it needs a rebuild and paint is pushing 4000$. thats a 2000$ paint job.....
if your looking for a project i would offer say 700 with the reasons above/below
Rust hole... thats trouble in its self. You can have a 900Hp engine with a rusted out body and as soon as you punch the car it can fall apart. Not worth it.
I would offer as little as i could.
Its not worth 2000. The fact it needs a rebuild and paint is pushing 4000$. thats a 2000$ paint job.....
if your looking for a project i would offer say 700 with the reasons above/below
Rust hole... thats trouble in its self. You can have a 900Hp engine with a rusted out body and as soon as you punch the car it can fall apart. Not worth it.
I would offer as little as i could.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
fastrx7man
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
33
09-02-15 09:42 PM