Glass moonroof project
10-26-11, 01:05 PM
#26
[QUOTE=Leonel95;10838664]
you can always tack weld some long nuts to the underside of the steel frame to use as a clamp for the underside of the glass to the frame.
it's really not too difficult to put ideas to practical use, i salvage alot of parts from these cars to use as a basis for upgrade parts. i hate adding to the landfill problem(but i aint no treehugger! lol).
with that method you would have the smooth steel frame outline with the glass center section, no visible fasteners from the top of the car at all(unlike the other OE optional moonroofs which had some blind caps on top).
you will just have to be adamate about the nut spacing otherwise each clamp location will show in a bowing in effect. further away from the sealing edge as possible.
you could also use the original steel frame as a retainer for the glass to hold the seals. just cut out the center section, but getting curved glass is the tough part.
I will definitely keep that in mind. I do however; want to keep as far as possible from drilling holes.
Currently waiting for the CNC'd template.
...RON...
I will definitely keep that in mind. I do however; want to keep as far as possible from drilling holes.
Currently waiting for the CNC'd template.
...RON...
it's really not too difficult to put ideas to practical use, i salvage alot of parts from these cars to use as a basis for upgrade parts. i hate adding to the landfill problem(but i aint no treehugger! lol).
with that method you would have the smooth steel frame outline with the glass center section, no visible fasteners from the top of the car at all(unlike the other OE optional moonroofs which had some blind caps on top).
you will just have to be adamate about the nut spacing otherwise each clamp location will show in a bowing in effect. further away from the sealing edge as possible.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 10-26-11 at 01:13 PM.
10-26-11, 02:10 PM
#30
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Ideas
Like u said though on using the frame from the metal. If i manage to cut it off the metal roof with the edges intact and to make it land with the glass perfectly.
I am guessing that but using a seal to lock both the glass and the metal frame together.
I am guessing that but using a seal to lock both the glass and the metal frame together.
10-26-11, 02:16 PM
#31
the nice thing about a glass roof is no frame, having a glass roof with the frame is not really good. the frame is not attractive its usually hidden by a panel.
On the plexi roof I had it had a smoother simpler fiberglass frame work and the roof was glued to it.
Windows have to be all the way up and roof closed at the the dragstrip. The guy who bought the car from me had it fly off on him when he took it to the track because he had to fully close it.
On the plexi roof I had it had a smoother simpler fiberglass frame work and the roof was glued to it.
Windows have to be all the way up and roof closed at the the dragstrip. The guy who bought the car from me had it fly off on him when he took it to the track because he had to fully close it.
10-26-11, 02:33 PM
#32
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Well the question there is; why did it fly off? Regardless It sounds like it was improperly built. Last thing i would want to hear is a glass roof coming off and hitting a car.
10-26-11, 02:38 PM
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IDeas
Probably like Karack said..
Using the metal frame and cutting out the center.. or perhaps just use the outside parts of the frame with the studs that way there wont be anything in the center.. and the frame will grip the glass on all 4 edges once the seal is placed on the lip of the glass and the frame metal lip.
Using the metal frame and cutting out the center.. or perhaps just use the outside parts of the frame with the studs that way there wont be anything in the center.. and the frame will grip the glass on all 4 edges once the seal is placed on the lip of the glass and the frame metal lip.
10-26-11, 03:42 PM
#35
the nice thing about a glass roof is no frame, having a glass roof with the frame is not really good. the frame is not attractive its usually hidden by a panel.
On the plexi roof I had it had a smoother simpler fiberglass frame work and the roof was glued to it.
Windows have to be all the way up and roof closed at the the dragstrip. The guy who bought the car from me had it fly off on him when he took it to the track because he had to fully close it.
On the plexi roof I had it had a smoother simpler fiberglass frame work and the roof was glued to it.
Windows have to be all the way up and roof closed at the the dragstrip. The guy who bought the car from me had it fly off on him when he took it to the track because he had to fully close it.
anyways, i'll see if i can make up some sort of drawing, all i have to work off of is a fiberglass sunroof i have laying here so i have to assume the frame is similar for the steel roof.
it seems like the simplest way of making sure the glass is secure, doesn't have external mounting screws and eliminates the edge sealing issue.
10-26-11, 04:00 PM
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Thanks
Hey Karack i definitely appreciate your efforts. And yes the stamp metal bottom of the sunroof's is the same i think on both carbon and metal.
But yea that gluing idea is kinda making me iffy about doing it. Now dont get me wrong there are some ridiculous glues out there. Theres some metal to glass types.
But like you said Karack hacking up the bottom support is the best way... Trick is a dremel and get rid of what u dont need.
But yea that gluing idea is kinda making me iffy about doing it. Now dont get me wrong there are some ridiculous glues out there. Theres some metal to glass types.
But like you said Karack hacking up the bottom support is the best way... Trick is a dremel and get rid of what u dont need.
10-26-11, 05:09 PM
#37
dont take it the wrong way but hack is right, it will look hacked.
trimmed metal always looked hacked, have to cover it with something
Karack- I was going to remove the old plexi roof because it deformed- which might be the reason the glue let go to begin with, and was going to have my plastics guy make me a new one but I sold the car.
I wonder if Martin who bought it kept the glass skeleton that was on there?
I wouldn't be worried about adhesives, most people dont follow directions and that's why they fail
trimmed metal always looked hacked, have to cover it with something
Karack- I was going to remove the old plexi roof because it deformed- which might be the reason the glue let go to begin with, and was going to have my plastics guy make me a new one but I sold the car.
I wonder if Martin who bought it kept the glass skeleton that was on there?
I wouldn't be worried about adhesives, most people dont follow directions and that's why they fail
10-26-11, 05:48 PM
#38
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It all the depends on the resins too.... some cant be around areas were theres alot of water involved or just general humidity. It breaks them down.
As far as hacking.. with a little proper metal work it can be changed quite a bit
As far as hacking.. with a little proper metal work it can be changed quite a bit
10-26-11, 06:58 PM
#39
Attaching glass to metal isn't that difficult, it's exactly how you attach a windshield to a car. When's the last time you saw one of those just "fall off". 
I have, but it didn't leave the factory. You need the glass primer, body primer and a urethane sealant. If you bend the outer skin down to make a flange for the glass to sit on, you can use the sealant to adhere the glass. The urethane would seal everything without the need for a custom weatherstrip. Keeping the curvature of the stock sunroof skin while making the flange would next to impossible. But it'd work in theory.
I have, but it didn't leave the factory. You need the glass primer, body primer and a urethane sealant. If you bend the outer skin down to make a flange for the glass to sit on, you can use the sealant to adhere the glass. The urethane would seal everything without the need for a custom weatherstrip. Keeping the curvature of the stock sunroof skin while making the flange would next to impossible. But it'd work in theory.
10-27-11, 08:58 AM
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Theres a big difference when it comes to the front windshield and the sunroof..
As far as it being glued on or whatever. The sunroof gets 2 different types of forces both upwards and against by the wind. Remember when the roof is opened its at an angle . That right there stresses it too.
As far as it being glued on or whatever. The sunroof gets 2 different types of forces both upwards and against by the wind. Remember when the roof is opened its at an angle . That right there stresses it too.
10-27-11, 09:03 AM
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Idea
When we speak of modifying the metal frame its to slim it down as much as possible and make it almost look like the one that the plexi one has on the pictures that were put up.
Only difference would be that the sections left would be the parts with the studs ; along with the corners .
There will be no cross rails. This way only the corners will be supported..
Only difference would be that the sections left would be the parts with the studs ; along with the corners .
There will be no cross rails. This way only the corners will be supported..
10-27-11, 11:05 AM
#44
I was an equipment engineer for an automotive manufacturing facility until recently and two of my areas were the front/rear glass and the glass sunroof, so I've done a few of them before. I've gotten to do a lot of tests with sunroofs and glass adhesives too. As for the forces, the sunroof and back windshield are similar low pressure areas and the glass never just 'comes off'. The glass will break long before the adhesive.
Attaching the glass to the roof with small fasteners does concentrate the load a lot on the glass and is a poor design both for durability and aesthetics. I think you'd have a winner on your hands if you make a full glass piece with the metal strip attached to the inside. And the strip has the studs to mount with the stock rails. The urethane will also be a little pliable depending on thickness, so it can be manipulated slightly without breaking the glass.
Attaching the glass to the roof with small fasteners does concentrate the load a lot on the glass and is a poor design both for durability and aesthetics. I think you'd have a winner on your hands if you make a full glass piece with the metal strip attached to the inside. And the strip has the studs to mount with the stock rails. The urethane will also be a little pliable depending on thickness, so it can be manipulated slightly without breaking the glass.
10-31-11, 03:10 PM
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Update
Still waiting for the template.
If anyone has a spare sunroof that i can hack up.. Give me a good price // and shipping.. whats important to me is the bottom frame part... It will get cut up.
As per KARACK's idea.
Thanks!
.... RON....
If anyone has a spare sunroof that i can hack up.. Give me a good price // and shipping.. whats important to me is the bottom frame part... It will get cut up.
As per KARACK's idea.
Thanks!
.... RON....
11-04-11, 06:37 PM
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Update
Thanks to 87 t-66 the metal sunroof will arrive to me on tomorow..
Along with the aluminum template arriving on Tuesday.
I am really trying my best to get this together. So bear with me folks.
Keep the thread alive!
Along with the aluminum template arriving on Tuesday.
I am really trying my best to get this together. So bear with me folks.
Keep the thread alive!
11-04-11, 06:54 PM
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ON a Side Note
Here was something that i had been working on about FEb of 2010
Cast Resin Fc3s handles. Went thru several tests to figure how to make it as strong as possible. Trick ended up being a coat wire piece to strengthen the area that breaks on them. As of now the part has been on my driver door since like March of 2010. It has held.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=oSgbmjB_gOk
I got away from the casting direction because of the expense of getting it 3d scanned and whatnot to try an injection mold. What i did do though is sent a Cad job and made 4 pieces of Stainless steel. I am going to try and find someone to get some redesigned legs to weld onto those pieces. To the end users its all about snipping the rest of the old pot metal garbage out and transplanting the new one.
Or perhaps it might be a service were you can purchase it and send your handle chassis as a core to keep a constant supply. it would be up to you to paint it.
Cast Resin Fc3s handles. Went thru several tests to figure how to make it as strong as possible. Trick ended up being a coat wire piece to strengthen the area that breaks on them. As of now the part has been on my driver door since like March of 2010. It has held.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=oSgbmjB_gOk
I got away from the casting direction because of the expense of getting it 3d scanned and whatnot to try an injection mold. What i did do though is sent a Cad job and made 4 pieces of Stainless steel. I am going to try and find someone to get some redesigned legs to weld onto those pieces. To the end users its all about snipping the rest of the old pot metal garbage out and transplanting the new one.
Or perhaps it might be a service were you can purchase it and send your handle chassis as a core to keep a constant supply. it would be up to you to paint it.