Getting rid of her
09-06-08, 07:53 PM
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Getting rid of her
This is my last go at this problem.
I have an ’86 GXL (Non-turbo.)
I’ve had cooling issues with this car since I’ve had it
The car runs hot and seems to drink coolant. Other times it spills coolant overboard by sending it to the overflow tank then boiling onto the ground. On some occasions internal bubbling can be heard after shutting down.
There is a sweet smell in the exhaust and a light misty white smoke.
So far I’ve replaced three thermostats (it’s an oem, so is the cap), upper and lower radiator hoses, water pump, flushed the system…and followed these directions:
“The plastic Undertray under the radiator and front of the engine?
A radiator with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition) (note: the stock pressure ( .9 bar) radiator cap suggested for proper cooling and system health).
A coolant mixture of at least 40% coolant, to 60% distilled water (do not use tap water) or 50/50 mixture (recommended in climates that drop under 0F).”
I am assuming the worst in this case. Coolant seals.
What is to be done about these seals? Is there a rebuild option that is less than $1,000?
I have an ’86 GXL (Non-turbo.)
I’ve had cooling issues with this car since I’ve had it
The car runs hot and seems to drink coolant. Other times it spills coolant overboard by sending it to the overflow tank then boiling onto the ground. On some occasions internal bubbling can be heard after shutting down.
There is a sweet smell in the exhaust and a light misty white smoke.
So far I’ve replaced three thermostats (it’s an oem, so is the cap), upper and lower radiator hoses, water pump, flushed the system…and followed these directions:
“The plastic Undertray under the radiator and front of the engine?
A radiator with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition) (note: the stock pressure ( .9 bar) radiator cap suggested for proper cooling and system health).
A coolant mixture of at least 40% coolant, to 60% distilled water (do not use tap water) or 50/50 mixture (recommended in climates that drop under 0F).”
I am assuming the worst in this case. Coolant seals.
What is to be done about these seals? Is there a rebuild option that is less than $1,000?
09-06-08, 09:09 PM
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.your next step is Finding out if the engine has good compression and also Performing a pressure test on your cooling system.,.if the car is Blowing out Coolant,and every Possible scenario to do with the Cooling system has been done,then Ya.,.it is looking like Rebuild Time..One coolant seal Cooked EQUALS rebuild time.,(think about it..Compressed air From Inside the Engine,blows by a Rubber seal and into you cooling system,builds the pressure and where does it go?.out your rad cap and into the bottle,,maybe onto the ground).
09-06-08, 09:46 PM
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Sweet smell in the exhaust points to coolant seals.
I recently rebuilt my own engine for roughly $700, not including various tools and rentals.
I've also read about some kind of copper treatment that seals the coolant leak, can't remember where I read it, but from what I do remember it's a pain in the *** all-day procedure involving flushing the system several times.
I recently rebuilt my own engine for roughly $700, not including various tools and rentals.
I've also read about some kind of copper treatment that seals the coolant leak, can't remember where I read it, but from what I do remember it's a pain in the *** all-day procedure involving flushing the system several times.
09-06-08, 10:34 PM
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i've heard of "quick fixes" being implemented in order to limp the car through a little longer til a real fix (read: rebuild) can be undertaken..
Any ideas on what those may be?
Any ideas on what those may be?
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09-06-08, 11:41 PM
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09-07-08, 12:03 AM
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The fact of the matter is that it takes a fairly catastrophic failure to burn up your coolant inside the motor. You need a rebuild. Further abuse by continuing to drive the car will only make your rebuild more expensive as the heat takes it's toll. You're boiling.
09-07-08, 12:57 AM
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Sweet smell in the exhaust points to coolant seals.
I recently rebuilt my own engine for roughly $700, not including various tools and rentals.
I've also read about some kind of copper treatment that seals the coolant leak, can't remember where I read it, but from what I do remember it's a pain in the *** all-day procedure involving flushing the system several times.
I recently rebuilt my own engine for roughly $700, not including various tools and rentals.
I've also read about some kind of copper treatment that seals the coolant leak, can't remember where I read it, but from what I do remember it's a pain in the *** all-day procedure involving flushing the system several times.
09-07-08, 10:36 AM
#12
Engine, Not Motor
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Keep in mind that the o-ring Paul Yaw "sealant fix" will clog most of the cooling system. You'll need to probably replace the rad, heater core, etc. when you swap in the non-water-pumping engine.
It's best to just rebuild your engine now before the leaks starts getting worse and rusts out all your usable parts.
It's best to just rebuild your engine now before the leaks starts getting worse and rusts out all your usable parts.
09-07-08, 02:54 PM
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Keep in mind that the o-ring Paul Yaw "sealant fix" will clog most of the cooling system. You'll need to probably replace the rad, heater core, etc. when you swap in the non-water-pumping engine.
It's best to just rebuild your engine now before the leaks starts getting worse and rusts out all your usable parts.
It's best to just rebuild your engine now before the leaks starts getting worse and rusts out all your usable parts.
09-07-08, 07:38 PM
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Rebuilt kit A from atkins.. $335.. So long as nothing else needs to be replaced when you pull it apart you should fall under $500 including the nickles and dimes if your lucky.
09-08-08, 11:12 AM
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Kit A Includes:
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Part Number ARE33
86-88 N/A 13B Overhaul Kit A
This is a bare basic Engine Kit, and does not include any seals or bearings.
Kit A Includes:
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Apex Seal Springs
Corner Seal Plugs
93+ Corner Seal Springs
Side Seal Springs
Oil O Ring Vitons
Front Main Seal
Rear Main Seal
Pilot Bearing and Seal
Thermal Pellet
Hylomar Sealant
09-08-08, 02:00 PM
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i wish i could. money and time are both limiting factors.
i've been spending the afternoon trying to get smart on rotary rebuilds. ive been finding "www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com" particularly helpful.
I'm thinking i'm going to replace the coolant seals with a gasket set, then start a fund to do it right in the near future..... if i am lucky enough that only the o-rings have been damaged.
Anyone have any idea if cracked water jackets are common, and if there are any tell tale signs of them being broken?
i've been spending the afternoon trying to get smart on rotary rebuilds. ive been finding "www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com" particularly helpful.
I'm thinking i'm going to replace the coolant seals with a gasket set, then start a fund to do it right in the near future..... if i am lucky enough that only the o-rings have been damaged.
Anyone have any idea if cracked water jackets are common, and if there are any tell tale signs of them being broken?
09-08-08, 02:56 PM
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An overheat could have caused the seals to become damaged by the PO, then time took it's course on worsening the leak. Also, it could have just...happened. Unfortunately, **** happens with no real explanation.
09-09-08, 01:50 PM
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At the minimum it would need a gasket set, all springs, apex seals and then all the sealants and such to put it back together. Also probably some hoses and stuff in the engine bay will need to be replaced. Passenger engine mount is probably broken, etc.
Long story short, it will cost more then $500 to rebuild the engine properly. However I think that $1500 would be a realistic budget if no irons/housings/rotors are required.