This is my last go at this problem.

I have an ’86 GXL (Non-turbo.)

I’ve had cooling issues with this car since I’ve had it

The car runs hot and seems to drink coolant. Other times it spills coolant overboard by sending it to the overflow tank then boiling onto the ground. On some occasions internal bubbling can be heard after shutting down.

There is a sweet smell in the exhaust and a light misty white smoke.

So far I’ve replaced three thermostats (it’s an oem, so is the cap), upper and lower radiator hoses, water pump, flushed the system…and followed these directions:

“The plastic Undertray under the radiator and front of the engine?
A radiator with a clear core and not too many bent fins?
Two belts running your water pump?
OEM rad cap? (of KNOWN condition) (note: the stock pressure ( .9 bar) radiator cap suggested for proper cooling and system health).
A coolant mixture of at least 40% coolant, to 60% distilled water (do not use tap water) or 50/50 mixture (recommended in climates that drop under 0F).”

I am assuming the worst in this case. Coolant seals.
What is to be done about these seals? Is there a rebuild option that is less than $1,000?

 

I have never had this problem personally but I have seen it on here enough to make a pretty educated guess that it is a coolant seal.

 

Right,

So what is the next step?

 

.your next step is Finding out if the engine has good compression and also Performing a pressure test on your cooling system.,.if the car is Blowing out Coolant,and every Possible scenario to do with the Cooling system has been done,then Ya.,.it is looking like Rebuild Time..One coolant seal Cooked EQUALS rebuild time.,(think about it..Compressed air From Inside the Engine,blows by a Rubber seal and into you cooling system,builds the pressure and where does it go?.out your rad cap and into the bottle,,maybe onto the ground).

 

Sweet smell in the exhaust points to coolant seals.

I recently rebuilt my own engine for roughly $700, not including various tools and rentals.

I've also read about some kind of copper treatment that seals the coolant leak, can't remember where I read it, but from what I do remember it's a pain in the *** all-day procedure involving flushing the system several times.

 

It's a coolant seal, the fix is at minimum a soft seal rebuild.

 

i've heard of "quick fixes" being implemented in order to limp the car through a little longer til a real fix (read: rebuild) can be undertaken..

Any ideas on what those may be?

 

There are none.

 

"There are various temporary fixes that can be employed,"

 

The fact of the matter is that it takes a fairly catastrophic failure to burn up your coolant inside the motor. You need a rebuild. Further abuse by continuing to drive the car will only make your rebuild more expensive as the heat takes it's toll. You're boiling.

 

Google o-ring fix, http://www.fd3s.net/o-ring_fix.html , i followed these instructions and my car seems to be ok. for how long tho i haven't a clue. i say its worth trying, i did and it was worth every penny. let me say this however. others on here say its costing them about 700 to rebuild. that was the case for me. they wanted 750. now take in to account that you may have tranny issues too. like me. how much is that? i don't care to know. so i did this fix and it will get me by for now. and soon im buying a rebuilt motor and tranny for 500! funny that it is cheaper but with paper work and a shop backing claims you know you got a chance at beating this. in my area there are 3 motors with trannys going for under 700 so i would guess it may be the same for you. just look around and see whats up. but please read that link it helped me out and now i can drive my car to work again till i have the money to swap the motor or rebuild.

 

Keep in mind that the o-ring Paul Yaw "sealant fix" will clog most of the cooling system. You'll need to probably replace the rad, heater core, etc. when you swap in the non-water-pumping engine.

It's best to just rebuild your engine now before the leaks starts getting worse and rusts out all your usable parts.

 

Anyone want a 86 gxl?

 

does that mean for free?

 

Rebuilt kit A from atkins.. $335.. So long as nothing else needs to be replaced when you pull it apart you should fall under $500 including the nickles and dimes if your lucky.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but are the Main Seals the culprit?

Kit A Includes:
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Part Number ARE33
86-88 N/A 13B Overhaul Kit A


This is a bare basic Engine Kit, and does not include any seals or bearings.
Kit A Includes:
Overhaul Gasket Kit
Apex Seal Springs
Corner Seal Plugs
93+ Corner Seal Springs
Side Seal Springs
Oil O Ring Vitons
Front Main Seal
Rear Main Seal
Pilot Bearing and Seal
Thermal Pellet
Hylomar Sealant

 

You wont need any of those except for the overhaul gasket kit if everything else besides your coolant seals are ok. You don't need a full kit, just the coolant seals, hopefully.

 

the engine has 141k miles, maybe i ought to replace apex springs while i have it apart?

 

i would do it all while you got it torn down

 

i wish i could. money and time are both limiting factors.

i've been spending the afternoon trying to get smart on rotary rebuilds. ive been finding "www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com" particularly helpful.

I'm thinking i'm going to replace the coolant seals with a gasket set, then start a fund to do it right in the near future..... if i am lucky enough that only the o-rings have been damaged.

Anyone have any idea if cracked water jackets are common, and if there are any tell tale signs of them being broken?

 

maybe I like to waste money or im too cautious, but the cost of ALL the seals in my motor was close to $1000, I cant see a motor with that much mileage being taken apart and put back together and have it run well for a LONG time for $500.

 

An overheat could have caused the seals to become damaged by the PO, then time took it's course on worsening the leak. Also, it could have just...happened. Unfortunately, **** happens with no real explanation.

 

all my apex seals and seals that have to do with the rotating assembly are FD, maybe 2nd gen NA is cheaper so I have to plead ignorant on that one.

Also keep in mind of the "substantial price increase" from Mazda that occured in August.

 

It would be insane to rebuild an engine of that high mileage with only a soft gasket kit.

At the minimum it would need a gasket set, all springs, apex seals and then all the sealants and such to put it back together. Also probably some hoses and stuff in the engine bay will need to be replaced. Passenger engine mount is probably broken, etc.

Long story short, it will cost more then $500 to rebuild the engine properly. However I think that $1500 would be a realistic budget if no irons/housings/rotors are required.

 

thanks to everyone for the insights. I'm going to tear it down to have a look, then make a decision.