Fuel sock changing
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
Take a pick or a similarly pointy tool and pry the 3 tabs up on the metal retaining ring. You show it in your picture at about 11 o clock from where the sock feeds the pump.
Did the procedure for de-flood. After a couple attempts, it started. Not very well, but it's still running ragged compared to what it should. The idle is rough, but near 1500, doesn't want to rev, goes to about 4k before it says no more and gets very ragged. how do I test the wires/coils for working? Multimeter use is in its infancy here.
Any other suggestions.
Any other suggestions.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,600
Likes: 49
From: Norcal/Bay Area, CA
Need some more background on the car and condition. Was it sitting for a while, running good before being worked on, suddenly not working like it used to? Cutting out at 4k rpm is usually a sign the secondary injectors aren't working. They could be clogged or broken, have bad wiring, a fried ecu. For spark, turn off engine and remove EGI fuse. Pull a plug wire and insert metal object/spare spark plug and lay it on the block. Crank and see if you can see it arc.
Yeah.... we need some background info like how long the car has been layer up, what/when did it start running poorly, are you just first getting it going and replacing the filter sock is one of your starting points.... so on and so on.
Anyhow run the course of full tune up, fuel filter and fuel pressure testing, then go onto vacuum leak/intake leak testing and repair, then onto electrical. When in doubt search and read all of these have been beaten to death.
Anyhow run the course of full tune up, fuel filter and fuel pressure testing, then go onto vacuum leak/intake leak testing and repair, then onto electrical. When in doubt search and read all of these have been beaten to death.
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