lnlycrpr

Even though i dont post much, i've been on this forums for over 4yrs now. Becasue of everyone else's work, I'v been able to do and learn a lot myself. I'd like to make a small contribution to the forum.

This is for the aftermarket fuel pumps that are available on ebay. Although the walbro, is a direct drop in (so i hear), i thought i'd give this kind a chance, because it boasts the same performance as a walbro, with half the noise. A walbro install shouldn't be much different than this and it was a very quick and simple upgrade. It took all of about an hour from start to finish.

***You are performing this at your own risk. I take no responsibility for ANYTHING that you do***

1. First you need to depressurize the fuel. Easiest way... pull the EGI fuse under the hood. Crank the engine for a couple seconds to depressurize the fuel in the lines. Do this once or twice and you should be fine.

2. Pull the carpeting up in the trunk and you will see a silver plate with a harness through the middle. Take the four screws out and ease it off, so that you dont yank on the connector. Disconnect the socket from the fuel pump.

3. What you see now is the top of the fuel pump assembly. Disconnec the two fuel lines. **understand that even though they're depressurized, a little bit of fuel will drip out** Remove the eight screws you see around the edges of the cover. Once you've done this, the fuel pump is ready to come out.

4. Pull the assembly straight up about 3/4 of the way... you should feel it stop. Tilt it toward the passenger side of the car and it should rotate out. DO NOT FORCE IT OUT! or you will bend the level float.

5. This is your fuel pump assembled and out of the car. You will need to remove the old pump to replace it with your new one.

6. Start by removing the screw on the bottom of the assembly, just under the fuel pump itself.

7. Remove the two nuts holding the power lines to the pump. The + side is a 6mm and the - is a 8mm. Its up to you if you want to cut the lines since your going to install the new connector supplied anyway.

8. Here are two comparison pictures. The 255LPH is definitely smaller than the stock pump, so we'll just have to wait until after the install to see how it really works. (remove the foam padding around the new fuel pump before reassembly)


9. Ok, THIS pump will not fit properly with the current metal line. (i pulled the red adapter off of the top of the new pump) This pump did come with a small adapter line. in order to use it, i had to cut the large end off of the original hard line. You can also see the that the connector was connected, soldered, and heat shrink wrapped for protection. Now the pump is ready to install. **the Walbro pump is supposed to just drop in like the old stock pump. Check to make sure this is true before cutting any lines or wires. If it's not a direct drop in, you can apply the same theory**

10. Here is a pic of the 255lph pump installed into the assembly and ready to be re-installed in the vehicle. The pump sits on the metal bracket on the bottom like the stock one, and the fuel line adapter sits in place properly. Make sure that the pump sits snug and tight. NOT loose and sloppy or you will run into problems later on.

11. Installing the assembly is the opposite of removal. Set the assembly in proper and CAREFULLY. Screw the eight screws in a crisscross pattern. reconnect the fuel lines. Reconnect the socket and screw the plate back on in the trunk.

12. Charge/pressurize your lines by turning the car to the on position (but not starting it). Do this once or twice to ensure proper pressure. Start you car and drive off!.

jgrts20

Cool, this should be a sticky if there isnt one yet on this!!

NJGreenBudd

iTrader: (1)

nice writeup, i just did this a couple months ago and coul dhave used it just for referance. Good job..

sub9lulu

iTrader: (7)

did u use anything special to seal the tank / pump assembly or u just slap it on there and screw it tight ?

rx7 FC TII

iTrader: (3)

screw it tight...be careful not too lose the screws..

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

very nice job. def archive material!

btw, I'm doing this exact same thing as we speak. the difference is that I don't have a connector for my wires, they are just bolted onto the top of the fules pump assy. maybe its an s4 thing? also my 8 screws are rusted to the point where i cant tell if they are phillips or flat head so I'm soaking them in some penetrating oil and praying.

lnlycrpr

the 8 screws are phillips screws. be careful and patient when taking them off. as far as the connector, there should be one at the top of the fuel assembly, but i wouldnt know for sure, since i have an S5.

the fuel pump itself is exactly the same as the one above though. two lines held on by nuts.

just make sure to look over your parts before you hack anything up.

TII '87

In addition, maybe we can suggest to replace those soooooooooooo rusty phillips screw by 8 hexagonal ( allen ) screws.

I had such a hard time to get my fuel pump assembly out due to these rusty screws. So I just put Hex screws.

Hex screws will make further removal/inspection/installation MUCH easier!!!

my 0,02

l-p

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

well, sadly I think mine are beyond getting out ever, at least the way they are. So I'm going to try dremeling them into flat head screws. If that doesn't work then I'll have to drill them out.

btw, if I drill them out can I get most of the shavings out with say, a rag on a stick? and hope the fuel filter will get the rest? or will I have to drop the tank for more extensive cleaning?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if you have to drill you should remove the fuel tank and tape the opening closed so no metal gets into the tank. you don't want even a tiny piece of shaving to make its way past the pump sock.

MidnightOwl

I had to use a set of screw removal tools to get out the screws, then bought some hex screws to replace them, and all is well. Twas a pain.

Osirus9

iTrader: (10)

screw removal tools? could those be purchased inexpensively at harbor freight?

NZConvertible

Doing that won't depressurise the system. To do that the fuel has to get out of the system somehow. With the EGI fuse pulled the injectors won't open, so no fuel will actually go anywhere and the pressure will remain the same. The correct prodedre is to disconnect the fuel pump's electrical connector with the engine idling, and wait until it runs out of fuel and stalls.

That won't repressurise the system either! The fuel pump only runs if the enigne is cranking or running. To run the pump without starting the engine, you have to jumper the yellow 2-pin fuel pump check connector in the engine bay.

Good job otherwise.

It has a thick rubber gasket. It doesn't need anything.

A lot of people seem to have that problem, but it pays to check first. Based on other's experience with the screws, I went and bought an impact driver set specifically for this job (absolutely the best way to loosen stuck screws), but when I got to it all of the screws came out very easily with a regular screwdriver!